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1993 ford ranger xlt. Fuel, volts, temp and oil pressure gauges quit working at the same time. all fuse slots except #13 has power. tried a different cluster with the same result. the cable that plugs in on the left side of the cluster #14 has power and all other slots have no power on both cables.
Country: United StatesMake: FordModel: Ranger 4x2Year: 1993Engine: 2.3L
What type cluster do you have in this Ranger,standard or sport?
Which wire on pin 14 do you have power on is it the gray/yellow? You should have power on the red/yellow wire which is also pin 14 on one of the connectors and this same wire feeds pin 3 and 12 on the other connector also red/yellow.All 3 of the red/yellow wire gets power from fuse no.7(15amp).
i have a standard cluster. And only have power on the grey/yellow wire as you said, not the red/yellow wires and fuse #7 has power also, now what do i do?
Ok if the fuse no.7 is good then you have a break in the wiring somewhere between the fuse and splice S208.Since you do not have power on any of the R/Y wires at the IC then the problem will be between the fuse and the splice. The only problem here is that the shop manual does not list where this splice is,so I would suggest checking right at the fuse first to make sure that your problem isn't there.If you have power on the R/Y wire coming off of the fuse then you can try and overlay the circuit,or back feed it. Here is a link to a copy of the wiring schematic to help you.
http://www.mediafire.com/?i8wyddm0mdtr8yi
Now if you have power on the R/Y wire leaving fuse no.7 then take another wire and splice it in there and then right behind the cluster there should be the low oil level relay.Here is a link to the pick of its location.See page 151-9 location A3
http://www.mediafire.com/?gaspl6dzwaabjhg
Splice into the R/Y wire there to back feed the circuit and see if that doesn't solve your problem.
Experience: 33 Years Experience,Ford Senior Master,ASE Master,L1 Advanced Engine Performance
Thanks for all your help...#7 fuse should be a 15A and a 10A was in that slot. I replaced the 10A with a 15A and gauges are now working.
Glad to hear you have your problem solved.Thanks for using Just Answer
hi, i know i told you that the problem was solved but only the top two gauges are working which are the volts on the top left and the oil pressure top right. the bottom two are not working which are temp bottom left and fuel bottom right. please advise.
This will most likely be either a problem in the IC or the senders for these two gages.If you look at the wiring schematic I sent you a link to, the temp gage gets its feed from pin 12(R/Y wire) and the fuel gage gets its feed from pin 14(R/Y wire).The fuel gage is also on the same circuit as the oil pressure gage which you said was working.Now if you have access to a resistor or adjustable resistor you can go to the Y/W wire on pin 5 and test the fuel gage 145 ohms is full and 22.5 ohms is empty.
On the temp gage it is the R/W wire on pin 11 and hot is 9.7 ohms and cold is 74 ohms
i have a multimeter with ohms setting will that work? also, when truck is turned off the fuel gage goes to 1/4 and when i crank truck up fuel gage goes to empty.
The ohm meter would test the ohms you have coming from the sending unit.But in order to actually test the gage you would need an adjustable resistor to hook into the wire to make the gage move.
No if you know how much fuel is in the tank you could test it this way with your ohm meter, for instance if you had a 1/2 tank you should read around 70 ohms or so.If your ohm reading on the Y/W wire appears to be normal trace it to the printed circuit board on the back of your cluster,it should go to the anti slosh module first then to the gage.Trace it all the way to the gage and check it again there on the metal portion of the gage.
Do the same thing with the temp gage.
where can i purchase an adjustable resistor?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OTC-3385Universal-Gauge-tester-Ford-Gm-Chevy-import-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem35aee0ba17QQitemZ230567229975QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools
You may be able to rent one from one of your local Parts stores
http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-K37-Resistor-Substitution/dp/B0002BBQLY/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1293934033&sr=1-2
on the c251 pin #5 y/w wire is suppose to be hot that operates the fuel gauge, pin #11 r/w wire operates the temp gauge is not hot as well. where does these wires get their fire from? how can i solve this problem?
These wires are nothing more than a resistor path to ground. They will not have power unless hooked to the gage with the switch on and unless you have a totally open circuit they will show very little voltage then.
The test you are doing on these two wires is measuring resistance only.
when i have switch on and connectors plugged in the back of the cluster should a test light light up to show power on these pins?
Yeah it would probably light it dimly
ok, i tried that and its not lighting up at all!
Well that may not be a very accurate test for this,do you have a good ohm reading on these two wires with the connector unhooked?
can i use my multi meter and set it on the ohms setting to do this? if so, what setting do i set it at? and what would be a good reading? my ohms settings on my meter are: 20m, 2m, 200k, 20k, 2k, 200
set it on 200 scale you will be reading on the temp gage somewhere between 74(cold) to 9.7 ohms hot.
On the fuel gage it will be reading somewhere between 22.5 ohms empty to 145 ohms full
ok, i tested the wires with the connector unplugged and fuel y/w wire is reading 136.3 and temp r/w wire is not reading at all, the meter still shows the number one
Does the 136 ohms match up with how much fuel you believe you have in the tank(probably 3/4 tank or better)?
On the temp wire go to the sending unit itself and take a reading.If you still get no reading then sender most likely bad.If you do get a reading then you may have a wiring concern.
yes on the fuel i filled up before i started this project and drove 47 miles. to take a reading on the temp sending unit i unplug the wire and test the sender? also, i unplugged the circuit board on the cluster, the one on the end of cluster thats about the size of a credit card and the fuel gauge went to full and then back to empty when i plugged it back up.
Yeah the circuit board is the anti-slosh module.This is could be what the problem is on your fuel gage. Just trace the printed circuit to the slosh module,follow the R/Y wire circuit 1st and make sure you have 12V there with key on(with module unhooked),2nd trace the R/W wire circuit and make sure you have the resistance reading there,3rd follow the B/W wire(this is a ground) and hook you test light to a power source then to this circuit and it should light the test light if ground is good.
Now check in this at both ends of the printed circuit on back of the cluster proves out the printed circuit board and if all of this is good then your slosh module is bad. You can verify this by taking a jumper wire and run it from the Y/W wire in the back if the connector then to the metal prong on the back of the gage itself that lines up with the Y/W wire and see if gage reads then.In other words you are bypassing the slosh module.
ok i will try this on tomorrow and let u know what happens.
Sounds good
ok, ive checked both sending units and have power on both, also retested pin #5 and #11 both have power. slosh module has power also.
DiD you check the ground to the gages,BK/W wire pin 2 for fuel gage and BK/W wire pin 10 for the temp gage?
Did you try a jumper wire on the Y/W wire to the gage,bypassing the slosh module?