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Dieseljunky2, Ford Mechanic
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 3946
Experience:  ASE Certified, Ford Certified, Cummins Certified, & 20+ years in field experience
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I am working on a 2003 6.0 f450 with a no start problem icp

Resolved Question:

I am working on a 2003 6.0 f450 with a no start problem icp is only 200psi when cranking I have no codes other than one glow plug code. I have checked for high pressure oil leaks cant find one I removed the ipr valve, there was a little bit of trash on the screen not excessive. Is there any way I can test this ipr valve before i make the customer spend $350 and me not know if that is going to fix the problem.
Submitted: 6 years ago.
Category: Ford
Expert:  Dieseljunky2 replied 6 years ago.
Chat Conversation Started
Dieseljunky2 :

How did you test for high pressure leaks? Normally, when you have some pressure, there is a leak in the system. Once I know how you tested the system, I can see if we need to make another test first. Also, there is not a bench test for the valve end of the valve. Only test is electrical, apply 12 volts and listen for the valve to snap shut.

JACUSTOMER-8yfibi4d- :

I used air to test for hp leaks and visualy while cranking the truck. I have put 12v to the valve after removing it and couldnt hear and thing.

Dieseljunky2 :

Holding the valve horizontal, like it is installed, put 12 volts to it and see if it clicks, and if it does not, then reverse the voltage and see if it clicks that way. If it does not click either way, then it is very likely that the valve is bad.

JACUSTOMER-8yfibi4d- :

ok. Before i started taking this truck a part if you would shoot either to it it would start and run perfect and the icp was good while it is running as soon as you kill it and try to restart nothing no start and only around 200 psi or less

JACUSTOMER-8yfibi4d- :

I did what you said and the valve still isnt clicking?

Dieseljunky2 :

Did you happen to notice what the ipr percentage was while it was running?

JACUSTOMER-8yfibi4d- :

Going off memory in the 80's

Dieseljunky2 :

Anything over 34% is bad, that indicates an internal oil leak. Have you checked the o-rings on the stand pipes? They are the most common cause of the low pressure while cranking.

JACUSTOMER-8yfibi4d- :

This is an early 6.0 does it have stand pipes?

Dieseljunky2 :

All 6.0 engines have standpipes. The short block off pipes are the first o-rings to fail.

JACUSTOMER-8yfibi4d- :

ok, I have looked for them but can't seem to locate them. this is my first 6.0 not sure on all of the part locations.

Dieseljunky2 :

They are located in the high pressure oil rails, That is depending on what engine plant it came from. Does the truck have round oil rails feeding the injectors as in the picture below?

Full Size Image

JACUSTOMER-8yfibi4d- :

yes this what the oil rails look like

Dieseljunky2 :

If there was no oil leaking from tube 2 in the picture, then the most likely suspect on this system would be the fitting where tube 4 connects to the pump 7 in the picture. Most likely, the o-ring in the pump fitting has started to blow out, and this is why it will not start. Once the engine rpm is fast enough, the pump can then overcome the leak.

JACUSTOMER-8yfibi4d- :

I will have to remove the turbo to remove this fitting and inspect the oring correct?

Dieseljunky2 :

yes, and the intake

JACUSTOMER-8yfibi4d- :

Would you check that oring before buying the ipr control, if so could you kid of lead in the right direction on the D&A of the turbo and intake?

Dieseljunky2 :

This is the fitting and pipe assembly on the pump. I will continue posting directions in parts, as it is too big for a single insert.

Full Size Image

Dieseljunky2 :

Intake Manifold


  1. Disconnect the LH and RH battery ground cables.

  2. Remove the LH battery.

  3. Remove the air cleaner assembly.

  4. Remove the cooling fan-blade, clutch and shroud, 6.0L diesel engine.




  1. Remove the upper radiator hose.

  2. Remove the coolant reservoir.


  1. NOTE: Engine side shown, charge air cooler side similar.

Remove the turbocharger-to-charge air cooler tube.


  1. NOTE: Engine side shown, charge air cooler side similar.

Remove the charge air cooler-to-engine tube.


  1. Remove the accessory drive belt.


  1. Position the boot back and disconnect the generator B+ wire and electrical connector.


  1. Remove the three bolts and the generator.

  2. Remove the turbocharger and the turbocharger pedestal.


  1. Remove the bolts and position the heater hose tube aside.

    • Remove and discard the O-ring.


  1. Disconnect the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor hose.


  1. Disconnect the engine coolant vent hose.

  2. Remove the injector driver module.


  1. Disconnect the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) electrical connector.


  1. Disconnect the 12-pin and 8-pin electrical connector.


  1. Disconnect the wiring retainer, injector pressure regulator and Injector Control Pressure (ICP) sensor electrical connector.


  1. Disconnect the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve electrical connector.


  1. Disconnect the oil pressure sensor electrical connector.


  1. Disconnect the oil temperature sensor electrical connector.


  1. Disconnect the Throttle Position (TP) control module electrical connector, if equipped.


  1. Disconnect the TP sensor electrical connector.


  1. Disconnect the pin-type retainer and water temperature sensor.


  1. Disconnect the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor electrical connector and wiring connector.


  1. Disconnect the exhaust backpressure sensor and retaining clip.


  1. Disconnect the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor and position the engine wiring harness aside.


  1. NOTE: Left side shown, right side similar.

Disconnect the eight fuel injectors. Remove the nut and the fuel injector wiring harness.


  1. Disconnect the fuel line fittings.


  1. NOTE: It is necessary to remove the filter and drain the housing.

Remove the four bolts and the oil filter housing.


  1. Remove the bolt and the oil filter return tube.


  1. Remove the fuel line.

    • Remove the bolt, and the banjo fitting from the fuel line.

    • Discard the sealing washers and remove the fuel line.


  1. Remove the nuts and the turbocharger heat shield.


  1. NOTE: Align the flat edge with the index feature located on the coolant supply port.

Twist the EGR cooler clamp and slide the EGR cooler hose down.


  1. NOTE: Intake removed for clarity.

Remove the EGR cooler V-clamp and gasket.


  1. Remove the bolts and the intake manifold.


  1. Remove the intake manifold gaskets.

    • Clean and inspect the gaskets. Replace if necessary.

    • Clean and inspect the sealing surfaces.

JACUSTOMER-8yfibi4d- :

ok thanks! so the stand pipes on this model are the oil rails or am I way off

Dieseljunky2 :

This model uses the braided flex pipes that hook to the rails instead of standpipes. This design is better as far as the oil rails are concerned.

Dieseljunky2 :

  1. Remove the turbocharger intake tube.


  1. Disconnect the charge air cooler inlet pipe.


  1. Remove the push pins.


  1. Disconnect the two wiring harness push pins and position out of the way.


  1. Disconnect the variable gate turbocharger solenoid electrical connector.


  1. Remove the bolts for the oil supply tube.

    • Remove and discard the gasket.


  1. Remove the bolt and the wire retainer.


  1. Using the special tool, remove the oil feed tube.


  1. Remove the marmon clamp from the turbocharger outlet.


  1. Remove the marmon clamp from the turbocharger inlet.


  1. Remove the rear turbocharger mounting bolt.

NOTE: Turbocharger shown removed for clarity.


  1. Remove the front mounting bolts and remove the turbocharger.

JACUSTOMER-8yfibi4d- :

ok so the reason for for the high ipr % when running could be a leak that I couldn't see or hear, so this is more likely to be the problem vs. and elctrical problem correct?

Dieseljunky2 :


JACUSTOMER-8yfibi4d- :

Thanks for your time very helpful!!!!!!!!

Dieseljunky2 :

no problem

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