Ford Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
How did you test for high pressure leaks? Normally, when you have some pressure, there is a leak in the system. Once I know how you tested the system, I can see if we need to make another test first. Also, there is not a bench test for the valve end of the valve. Only test is electrical, apply 12 volts and listen for the valve to snap shut.
I used air to test for hp leaks and visualy while cranking the truck. I have put 12v to the valve after removing it and couldnt hear and thing.
Holding the valve horizontal, like it is installed, put 12 volts to it and see if it clicks, and if it does not, then reverse the voltage and see if it clicks that way. If it does not click either way, then it is very likely that the valve is bad.
ok. Before i started taking this truck a part if you would shoot either to it it would start and run perfect and the icp was good while it is running as soon as you kill it and try to restart nothing no start and only around 200 psi or less
I did what you said and the valve still isnt clicking?
Did you happen to notice what the ipr percentage was while it was running?
Going off memory in the 80's
Anything over 34% is bad, that indicates an internal oil leak. Have you checked the o-rings on the stand pipes? They are the most common cause of the low pressure while cranking.
This is an early 6.0 does it have stand pipes?
All 6.0 engines have standpipes. The short block off pipes are the first o-rings to fail.
ok, I have looked for them but can't seem to locate them. this is my first 6.0 not sure on all of the part locations.
They are located in the high pressure oil rails, That is depending on what engine plant it came from. Does the truck have round oil rails feeding the injectors as in the picture below?
yes this what the oil rails look like
If there was no oil leaking from tube 2 in the picture, then the most likely suspect on this system would be the fitting where tube 4 connects to the pump 7 in the picture. Most likely, the o-ring in the pump fitting has started to blow out, and this is why it will not start. Once the engine rpm is fast enough, the pump can then overcome the leak.
I will have to remove the turbo to remove this fitting and inspect the oring correct?
yes, and the intake
Would you check that oring before buying the ipr control, if so could you kid of lead in the right direction on the D&A of the turbo and intake?
This is the fitting and pipe assembly on the pump. I will continue posting directions in parts, as it is too big for a single insert.
Intake Manifold Removal
Remove the turbocharger-to-charge air cooler tube.
Remove the charge air cooler-to-engine tube.
Disconnect the eight fuel injectors. Remove the nut and the fuel injector wiring harness.
Remove the four bolts and the oil filter housing.
Twist the EGR cooler clamp and slide the EGR cooler hose down.
Remove the EGR cooler V-clamp and gasket.
ok thanks! so the stand pipes on this model are the oil rails or am I way off
This model uses the braided flex pipes that hook to the rails instead of standpipes. This design is better as far as the oil rails are concerned.
NOTE: Turbocharger shown removed for clarity.
ok so the reason for for the high ipr % when running could be a leak that I couldn't see or hear, so this is more likely to be the problem vs. and elctrical problem correct?
Thanks for your time very helpful!!!!!!!!