That sounds like a bad trans range sensor. Do ytou have a digital volt meter? If you do we can check it to see if it is working correctly. If it is bad It can tell the pcm you are in neutral and that is why the trans will not go into gear.
Thanks for your response. I really appreciate your confirmation that this may be a bad TR sensor. It was my first guess due to the symptoms/transmission behavior e.g. selecting '1' or '2' caused the transmission to engage and operate normally. But I know little about automatic transmissions. I've been an electrical engineer for the past twenty four years. I mention this only to say that I have no problem working with / troubleshooting a sensor. As I understand it at this point, the sensor is a simple resistive type with a wiper (or similar) that divides 5 volts and ground. The output simply provides stepped voltages that correlate to the shift selector position (PND12), that is then read by the ECU. I'm further guessing that since the selector spends most of it's life bouncing down the road in the 'D' position that the wiper contacts have a good probability of failure in the 'D' position. I have a good quality DVM that I can read the sensor output with. Is the sensor (connector) located under the center console?
No it will be on the trans under the shifter lever.
I've located the range sensor on the shift selector on the transaxle.
Found White/Green lead that is input to ECU. Just need to know procedure for measuring and will be done here. Again - thank you for your help. Greatly appreciated ! Will transfer deposit over to you at any point. Not certain if I do it now if it will close out this connection?
It will not close the question but will move the chat back to a Q&A format. I need to look up the diagrams again so please hold tight and I will be right back with you.
ok - I'm assuming 12V on the OR/YL is the supply voltage to the range sesnor and is divided down to various voltages as the shift selector is moved through PRND12
No. There is no voltage change. It will have 12 volts to it whether you have it in revers drive 1st or 2nd gear. It is the feed wire to the shift solenoids.
ok will check for 12V on the OR/YL when the shift selector is in D. I understand. voltage to solenoid may be lost when selector is in D.
Also please do me a fover so i can check the diagrams I have. What color wires does your sensor have on it?
What works best for you in terms of time and this chat. I'm unable to get out to the car and respond in a manner that's likely convenient for you. Don't want this to get complicated in terms of our back and forth dialogue.
I am here at my pc till the out side temp drops so I can get the work done in the shop so I will be here for the next 3-4 hours. You are fine take all the time you need as I am helping others in the mean time.
ok - will run out to check wire colors and get back as soon as I can. Again - thank you
Yuo are very welcome'
on the Ford Contour range selector - six wires terminate in the connector body. I'll list 'base' wire color first, and 'stripe' color second. I do not number wires here according to pin out on connector, only as a sequential list 1. Violet/Black 2. Violet/White 3. Black/Green 4. Black/Yellow 5. White/Green 6. Brown/Green
My wire diagrams are wrong but the colors do show up correctly for the conector view. Let me see what the correct color wire you need to be test is. i will be right back.
appreciate your help!
And wouldnt ya know I grtabed the wrong one.
Let me see if I can get the right diagram brb
Murphy is on every job!
LOL yes he is.
Fantastic help! Thank you!
Hold on had to scan it into my pc.
underrstand - no problem
does your plug have 10 or 11 pins in it?
let me run check byb
it's an 11 pin connector
I'm sorry that I have to pull away from this computer. I'm being squeezed here by schedules and time. I need to remain here, yet I have to be elsewhere as well. The old rock and a hard place. This should not suggest that I don't care about your effort, concern, and time. I do. I simply need to attend to other responsibilites for an hour or so. I will get back here as soon as I can. I realize you also need to attend to other obilgations. Is there a way we can continue this? Also, I initially chose $15 to desposit here. You've been so helpful, I want to increase that amount. Can I still do that now that this 'chat' has been initiated? Appreciate your help in every way. Apologize for having to leave at this point. I have no choice.
I fully understand what you are saying. If you need to go take care of things by all means go and do what needs to be done. I will be here when you get back. As for the money Yuo can always add a bonus after you accept my answer.
In the mean time this will give me the time I need to look up all the data as what all data has is not correct and will have a friend of mine bring me his ford tech manule for this car.
Fantastic. Thanks for your understanding. Will be back here as soon as possible. I will likely be away for about two hours to deal with all that needs doing. Thank you. My name's XXXXX XXXXX the way.
I am jamie and will see you back here when you are ready.
bye for now
Hi Jamie, this is Austyn. Don't know if you're around or if you're busy. Just thought I'd drop a note to say I'm back in the virtual world
I am here but have bad news. I do not have the data I need yet to help you with your problme. I will have the data tomarrow around noon.
No problem at all Jamie. That will work fine for me. In fact even better.
Thank you. Till tomarrow at noon then?
You bet. Is 'noon' eastern, central, pacific?
very good. I'll check back in here at noon your time. Have a good evening!
Good night to you too.
Good afternoon Jamie
good afternoon to you. I will be with you in just a few minutes as i have one more car to take care of in the shop. just an o2 sensor replacement.
I'm online, but stepping away from the computer for short moments to attend to other issues. If I don't respond immediately, I will within a minute or two. Austyn
If you look at the plug for the sensor on thew wire side and the lock clip is to the top on the top row if pins the last pin and the bottom row second to last pin are the two pins that are for the gear selector readings for the pcm. On the sensor itself with your meter set to ohms and the trans in drive, see if you have a direct short on the pins top left and bottom second pin from the left. If there is not a direct short replace the sensor.
o-k, got it. have to run out to the car to check this. Will return here when done
Ok sorry that took so long. Had to make up some test probes to get onto the pins inside the connector body on the range selector sensor.
I've measured the resistance across the two pins you've identified. While in Drive, the two pins do not indicate zero ohms (or a near direct short) ~ I read 402 ohms across the pins while in D. But this may be correct! I ran the selector through all positions from P through to 1 and a very nice resistance progression was measured as follows Park = 4.18K ohms Reverse = 1.453 ohms Neutral =XXXXX= 402 ohms 2 = 211 ohms and 1 = 86.7 ohms. When the PCM applies a source voltage (+12v or +5v) to the top of this resistor tree, the sense voltage, that the PCM reads back at each of these selector positions would step down through a nice stairstep. The resistance value in the Drive position falls nicely inbetween the resistance value for Neutral, on one side, and the resistance value for '2' on the other side. The only consideration I can think of at this point is that this is an 'unpowered' measurement. It's possible - though very unlikely - that under power, the resistance values or wiper contact inisde the sensor yeild a different value that is out of range for the D position. Is there a separate solenoid within the transaxle that is energized in the D position as opposed to the 1 (or low position)? The trans is operating normally when 1 or 2 is selected. Seems to me that this indicates a 'Gear Selection Problem' and not something deeper within the trans. Or when the selector cable rotates the shaft going into the trans (that the range selector sensor attaches to), is it now likely that a malfunction is present in the valve selector or selector body (not sure of the name here) ?
Just ran another operational check on the trans. Haven't run it since it failed two days ago. Thought possibly I might have an intermittent problem that is temperature related. But problem still persists. What is different today is that when in Drive, the trans seems to partially engage sometimes. Both partial and sometimes are key words here. By sliding the shift selector gently back and forth across D, sometimes I have partial engagement and torque out of the output shaft. The car wants to creep forward ever so slightly. Increasing engine rpm increases torque output but only slightly. By shifting out of D then back in - sometimes I get no response at all. It's an intermittent response that provides fractional torque but only when it does operate at all.
This seems to rule the range sensor out as being suspect. If the PCM wasn't reading back the proper voltage off the range sensor it wouldn't attempt to engage the trans. What I think I'm getting is a good command for engagement off the PCM, but a solenoid? or some other failure internal to the trans isn't following through completely - it's attempting to and I'm getting partial pressure to engage (if that's the correct way to think about it) but only partial. Seems as if a clutch is engaging only partially but not completely. I'm at a loss here as to why the failure is only occuring while in the Drive position? Seems like the Drive position permits the full trans shift range 1, 2, 3, 4 or OD. Selecting 1 or 2 simply limits the range to 1 or 1 and 2, but the same components within the trans are being activated as in Drive when it accelerates through 1 and 2, then on to 3 and 4.
Obviously there are parallel paths that activate the same gear ratios. The path that Drive utilizes is resulting in a different outcome. I'll shut up. Just trying to figure this one out. Any thoughts you have at this point will be much appreciated. Thanks Jamie.
You are on the right path kinda. If the gear selselector switch is going bad and not sending the correct voltage back to the pcm then the trans will not work correctly. As you move the shifter not only are you moving the sensor but there is also a manule valve in the valve body that is moving as well. If you moved the selsctor to a good point but the manule valve was to far out of place this would be why you are only getting partial engagement. At this point there are only two things that would explain the problem, the sensor or the manule valve is not fitting into the hole it sits in anymore and the valve body has to be replaced.
Ok. Thanks much for all your help! I fear I have a problem with the valve body which will likely mean big $ for a trans removal and repair. I was so hoping it was the range selector. This is the third major transmission redo in this car. Will push the total repair cost over the 6K mark for the trans only. Not leaving me with a warm and happy fealing about this trans.
Again, thanks for all your time, trouble and guidance.
how do you fell about replacing the valve body yourself? The trans does not have to come out to replace it.