While we have the valve cover off, are you sure you don't need a diagram of the timing marks?
If the engine vacuum is low, I am going to point you back to the valve timing. SO while its off, lets be darn sure the marks are dead on. Remember, because this motor is a Ztec, this has variable cam timing. If the exhaust cam (the one that the solenoid changes timing... I believe if I remember correctly its the exhaust cam and not the intake cam) is off at all due to the Ztec solenoid, this will cause the engine vacuum to be extremely low and will cause this problem. It happens all the time.
But if you are sure... we can move on.
Sure... not a problem.
Which pulley are you talking about with the dowel pin? One of the camshafts? Which camshaft... the intake or the exhaust?
Or are you talking about the crankshaft pulley and harmonic balancer?
If the timing is dead on, I would check to see if the Ztec solenoid is stuck some how advancing or retarding the camshaft. Even if the marks line up, that particular camshaft could be too far advanced or too far retarded because of the Ztec solenoid.
I will be waiting!
By the way.... here is a picture of the variable valve timing solenoid.
It sits on the top of the valve cover gasket and goes into the head.
The VCT solenoid valve (Figure 128) is an integral part of the VCT system. The solenoid valve controls the flow of engine oil to the variable cam timing unit assembly. As the PCM duty cycles the solenoid valve, oil is allowed to flow to the VCT unit assembly and advance or retard the cam timing.
There is also a TSB for this problem. Here it is.
DRIVEABILITY - MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP(MIL) ILLUMINATED - DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLESCODES (DTCS) P1381/P0011 AND/OR P1383/P0012 - ROUGH IDLE, REDUCED POWER CONDITION,AND/OR STALL AT IDLE - FOCUS SVT MODEL ONLY
ISSUESome SVT Focus vehicles may exhibit the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) illuminated with Diagnostic Troubles codes (DTCs) P1381/P0011 Variable Cam Timing over-advanced (Bank 1) and/or P1383/P0012 Variable Cam Timing over-retarded (Bank 1) stored in memory. The vehicle may also exhibit a rough idle, reduced power condition, and/or stall at idle. This may be caused by:
^ Variable Camshaft Timing (VCT) control system stuck ^ Intake camshaft CMP trigger wheel mispositionedor loose ^ Engine Cam timing incorrect ^ Electrical conditions ACTIONRefer to the following Service Procedure to verify the Cam Timing, Intake Camshaft CMP Trigger wheel position, and VCT solenoid operation, then service as necessary.
1. Verify camshaft timing.
a. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise so that the second timing mark in rotation on the crankshaft damper is aligned with the raised mark on the oil pan (Figure 1).
b. Locate timing peg installation hole, remove plug, and install TDC timing peg t6ol T97P-6000-A (Global Number 303-574) (Figure 2) with timing peg installed verify the crankshaft will not rotate in a clockwise direction. c. Remove Engine Camshaft Cover and Timing Cover, per Workshop Manual Section 303-O1C - Timing Belt, perform only the steps of the procedure that are necessary to remove the camshaft cover and timing cover. NOTE IN ORDER TO REMOVE THE TIMING COVER IT IS NECESSARY TO REMOVE THE WATER PUMP PULLEY AND ACCESSORY DRIVE IDLER PULLEY AFTER REMOVING THE CRANKSHAFT DAMPENER.
d. Attempt to install the Camshaft Alignment Timing Tool T94P-6256-CH (Global Number 303-465), into the slots in the rear of the camshafts.
(1) If the alignment tool does insert into the slots, Engine Base Timing is correct. Proceed to Step 2. (2) If the alignment tool does not insert into the slots, the Base Engine Timing may be incorrect, proceed to Step 1e. e. Remove the crankshaft timing peg. f. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise one revolution. g. Reinstall the timing peg, verify that the engine will not rotate in a clockwise direction. h. Attempt to install the Camshaft Alignment tool. If the Camshaft Alignment tool will now insert, engine timing is correct proceed to Step 2. i. If the alignment tool will not insert, then base engine timing is off. Reset camshaft timing per Workshop Manual section 303-01C - Timing belt, perform only the steps of the procedure that are necessary to reset the camshaft timing - Continue to Step 3. NOTE TO AVOID VALVE DAMAGE ROTATE THE CRANKSHAFT COUNTERCLOCKWISE 1/3 OF A TURN, TO LOCATE ALL CYLINDERS OFF OF TDC, BEFORE LOOSENING THE CAMSHAFT PULLEY RETAINING BOLTS, OR USE AN OPEN ENDED WRENCH TO PREVENT THE CAMSHAFT FROM ROTATING AFTER THE BOLTS ARE LOOSENED.
2. Inspect the intake camshaft position sensor trigger wheel alignment. With camshaft alignment tool, and crank timing peg installed, there should be 15-16 mm between the top edge of the CMP sensor and the CMP trigger wheel tooth (Figures 3 and 4).
a. If trigger wheel alignment does not appear to be correct, replace the intake camshaft. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 303-01C - Camshafts. b. If trigger wheel alignment does appear correct, verify VCT Solenoid Wiring and connections. If OK, replace the VCT Solenoid assembly, torque the VCT Solenoid retainer bolt to 88 Lb-in. (10 N.m). 3. Reassemble. Refer to Workshop Manual Section 303-01C - Timing Belt, perform only the steps of this procedure that are necessary to reassemble the engine. NOTE WHEN TORQUING THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST CAMSHAFT PULLEYS IT MAY BE NECESSARY TO USE LOCKING PLIERS TO INSURE THE CAMS DO NOT MOVE. ALSO REMOVE THE CAMSHAFT ALIGNMENT BAR DURING THIS PROCEDURE TO PREVENT CAMSHAFT BREAKAGE.
NOTE REINSTALL THE WATER PUMP PULLEY, TORQUE BOLTS TO 18 Lb-ft (25 N.m) AND ACCESSORY DRIVE IDLER PULLEY, TORQUE BOLT TO 29 Lb-ft (40 N.m) AFTER REINSTALLING THE TIMING COVER AND BEFORE THE CRANKSHAFT DAMPENER.
4. Start the engine and monitor VCTADVERR PID using WDS, or CAMERR PID using NGS Tester, the PID should equal 0 +/- degree at idle.
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage and Emissions Warranty Coverage
Sorry for the delay!
The long term fuel trim is definitely off!
This solenoid should be right on top of the valve cover is it has one.
The only thing I can see from what you provided me with is this number LT FTRM1% - 21.7%. It is saying that the long term fuel trim is negative 21 %
THis is due to the same fact that you have low engine vacuum.
Ford does not provide a cranking pressure specification, only an acceptable range. The compression pressures are considered within specification if the lowest reading cylinder is within 75% of the highest reading.
The use of the new variable camshaft timing optimizes the combustion procedure by improving gas exchange in the cylinders. As a result of this exhaust emissions regulations can be met without the use of a pulse air system or exhaust gas recirculation system (EGR system).The mechanical principles behind variable camshaft timing (VCT) are relatively simple. The valve timing for the opening and closing of the exhaust valves is influenced by a hydraulic cylinder which is riveted to the timing sprocket. This cylinder connects the timing pulley with the camshaft through a hydraulic piston. The hydraulic piston is guided along its axis by the helical gears on the exhaust camshaft and the hydraulic cylinder. The helical gear transfers the up and down motion. As the timing sprocket is fixed in place by the timing belt, the position of the exhaust camshaft is rotated in relation to the timing sprocket, and the exhaust valve timing is therefore adjusted. The hydraulic piston is moved by supplying pressurized engine oil from the engine oil circuit to both pressure chambers of the hydraulic cylinder. The engine management system controls a solenoid valve which in turn supplies the pressurized oil to the pressure chambers.The return spring ensures the hydraulic piston goes back towards its original position when the engine is switched off.The VCT unit must be in its original position before the valve timing can be adjusted. Turn the exhaust camshaft in the normal direction of the engine rotation to bring the VCT unit to its original position. When doing this the crankshaft must not be turned.
Here is a picture of your variable camshaft and actuator/solenid (top between the two sprockets)
In my opinion, I would not replace the timing belt. If the engine vacuum is still extremely low with the exhaust dropped, then it is going to be valve timing. THis solenoid on top goes bad and causes the camshaft to be too far retarded or advanced causing this problem you are having.
I would start by replacing this solenoid. You might have to replace the part thats on the cam sprocket itself.
THis is much better! NOw that we know the engine vacuum is up to par, we are just looking at a stalling issue. We are now talking a whole different ball game. We need to look at different things under the hood that can cause this stalling issue.
Let me ask you this, does the engine have plenty of power under full throttle or even when accelerating? Or is the issue just at idle? Is the idle unstable? WHat is the engine rpm at when idling? Has this code 1132 come back yet or any other codes?
Here is some information on the trouble code you had present in your computer in the past. I think this might be related. Also, I have included some other information for you as well.
Diagnostic code p1132
Reset adaptive strategy by disconnecting the battery for about 10 minutes. This resets all the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) learned values, including long term fuel trim.
Monitor the front O2 sensor (bank 1 sensor 1), long term fuel trim and short term fuel trim readings, and monitor fuel pressure both on the scan data and an actual fuel pressure gauge.
If the fuel pressure readings are normal, the fuel trim readings go to high (double digit) positive numbers, but the O2 sensor reading is staying to the rich side (above 0.6 volts), replace the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
If the actual fuel pressure reading is higher than the scan tool fuel pressure reading, replace the Fuel Rail Pressure (FRP) sensor.
Potential Causes: Defective Fuel Rail Pressure (FRP) SensorDefective Powertrain Control Module (PCM)Tips: There is usually a difference between the Fuel Rail Pressure (FRP) sensor reading on the scan data and the actual fuel pressure reading, depending on the amount of engine vacuum, but the scan tool reading is normally HIGHER than the actual reading. This has to do with the vacuum to the FRP sensor. At idle, the scan tool reading is typically about 8 PSI higher than the actual reading. If the vacuum line is disconnected from the FRP sensor, the readings should equalize within 2 PSI.
Connect a voltmeter to the O2 output wire and check the actual voltage. Give it a vacuum leak and add fuel to make sure the O2 reacts correctly. Replace the O2 Sensor as needed.
Potential Causes: HarnessMalfunctioning O2 Sensor
Check the Fuel Rail Pressure (FRP) sensor voltage on the scanner and at the sensor on the White/Green (WH/GN) wire. The voltage should read about 2.8v@ 40 PSI.
If the voltage agrees with the 40 PSI reading on the scanner, but the actual pressure is 80 PSI, check the reference voltage (VREF) on the Yellow/Green (YE/GN) wire and the ground on the Brown/Green (BR/GN) wire.
If the VREF and ground are OK, but the output of the sensor is incorrect, replace the FRP sensor and retest.
Potential Causes: Fuel Rail Pressure (FRP) SensorHarnessTips: It is normal for the actual pressure with a gauge to read about 10 PSI less than what the scanner shows for fuel rail pressure
You might have an air or a vacuum leak. This is very common! Open the hood and listen for a hissing sound when the engine is running. Unmetered air can enter the engine through a vacuum leak, a dirty airflow sensor that is not reading airflow accurately, an EGR valve is not closing and is leaking exhaust into the intake manifold, an EGR valve that is allowing too much flow.If it is hard to pinpoint take some brake cleaner or starting fluid around the intake manifold and vacuum lines and see if the engine stumbles or if the idle is affected. Be extremely careful when doing this!
Also, your throttle body may be carboned up and need to be cleaned! This can cause all sorts of idle and hesitation problems. This is caused by the throttle plate not seating properly. The First thing i would do is clean out the throttle body with some throttle plate and intake cleaner and a small brush. Another common cause would be the Idle Air Control motor. This is very common on older cars. The IAC motor gets lazy and cant keep up with the fast idle changes. Also when the IAC motor is out, I rec to check the passages for carbon build up. If they are plugged they need to be cleaned out.
Check for the following conditions:
Poor connection at PCM or IAC motor. Inspect harness connectors for backed out terminals, improper mating, broken locks, improperly formed or damaged terminals, and poor terminal to wire connection. Damaged harness. Inspect the wiring harness for damage. Restricted air intake system. Check for a possible collapsed air intake duct, restricted air filter element, or foreign objects blocking the air intake system. Throttle body. Check for objects blocking the IAC passage or throttle bore, excessive deposits in the IAC passage and on the IAC pintle, and excessive deposits in the throttle bore and on the throttle plate. Check for a sticking throttle plate. Also inspect the IAC passage for deposits or objects which will not allow the IAC pintle to fully extend. Vacuum leak. Check for a condition that causes a vacuum leak, such as disconnected or damaged hoses, leaks at EGR valve and EGR pipe to intake manifold, leaks at throttle body, faulty or incorrectly installed PCV valve, leaks at intake manifold brake booster hose disconnected, oil filler cap, oil level indicator loose or missing, etc..
Sounds like you have one heck of a vacuum leak!
Check the PCV LINE AT THE BACK OF INTAKE. THE RUBER ELBOW ROTS AWAY CAUSING A MAJOR VACUUM LEAK RIGHT WERE YOU ARE DESCRIBING!
Usually if the part is bad, it needs to be replaced.
Can you upload a picture?
Just take a picture and scan it or upload it into your computer and when you reply back to me, just hit the picture button on the top of the tool. Its the green picture with the tree.
1. Monitor the STFT reading on the scan tool when attempting to nurse an additional fuel supply around the gaskets, Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve or other possible vacuum areas.
2. If the STFT can be forced down with the presence of added fuel at any point on the engine, the leak area has been isolated.
3. Check the fuel injector pulse width. Normal hot curb idle pulse width on this engine should indicate to be 3.3-3.7 ms.
4. Check fuel pressure. With the vacuum line disconnected at the Fuel Rail Pressure (FRP) sensor, the pressure reading on the gauge should match the reading shown on the scan tool.
5. Check the dead-head output pressure of the fuel pump by grounding the Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM) pin 3 circuit through a jumper wire with the ignition key in the run position. Fuel pressure should increase to 70(+) PSI.
Potential Causes: Leaking Engine VacuumContaminated Fuel InjectorsFuel PumpIncorrect Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve Flow Rate
I am not sure about the part.
Be sure the pictures are a jpeg or a GIF.
I have circled the upload picture button.
YES! It worked!
THis is for the evap system.
Are these hoses leaking?
Well, if this is truly the case, because these hoses are simply for evap purposes only, it would not hurt to plug them off somehow or remove them and plug up the whole the that hoses go to and see if the idle problem is all fixed. If this is the case, then you know that this is your problem. It sounds like you have already kind of done this. ANd if this is so, then yes, the part or parts that are leaking are bad and will need to be replaced.
If you are concerned about the cost, then I would simply go to a junk yard and get these parts off of a vehicle that is the same year make and model as yours and I would replace your faulty parts with the ones from the junk yard.
Not a problem!
When these readings were taken from the scanner, was this at idle or is this from the freeze frame?
Refresh my memory. We have good engine vacuum correct?
Do we have plenty of power under full throttle?
How does it idle?
Ok...Thanks for the refresh!
And still no codes in the computer?
WHat is the fuel pressure at? DOes fuel pressure leak down when the key is turned off?
DId you say that the baro reading was low on your scanner?
I think I may have sent this over already, but I just want to be sure that you got this. This is information on the code that was in the computer previously.
Verify the air filter is the correct one and properly installed. Also be sure it is not restricted or damaged in any way.
If the air filter is OK, try cleaning the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor and the driving the vehicle to relearn the BARO reading. If the reading returns to normal, suspect the problem is resolved.
If the BARO reading stays low, verify there are no problems with the engine breathing such as an air inlet restriction or restricted exhaust. Also be sure the valve timing is OK. If all OK, suspect a faulty MAF sensor.
Potential Causes: Improperly Installed Air FilterAirflow - Engine breathing problem.Defective Mass Air Flow (MAF) SensorDirty Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
1. Check the output of the #11 Oxygen (O2) sensor as the engine RPM is revved up and down to determine if the sensor voltage is changing at all.
2. If the sensor voltage has some movement, force the engine rich with added fuel such as propane or acetylene allowed to ingest into the intake at the air cleaner assembly. This should cause the O2 sensor input reading to increase to greater than 900 millivolts (mV).
3. If the sensor does not react quickly or will not reach the value, replace the O2 sensor.
4. If the sensor reacts quickly and will reach a high output value, inspect the wiring and connection of the sensor to verify it is not making intermittent connection and that the circuits are not chafing to ground.
5. If the sensor voltage does not change at all when revving the engine up and down, disconnect the sensor and connect a Digital Volt-Ohm Meter (DVOM) to the Black (BK) wire of the sensor and check its output when forcing the engine rich. If the sensor output is still low, replace the sensor.
Potential Causes: CircuitOxygen (O2) Sensor
1. Check the output of the lead oxygen sensor by forcing the engine rich with added fuel to verify that the sensor output reading will jump to a high value of 09-1.0 volt.
2. If the sensor does not respond to added fuel, replace it.
3. If the sensor responds to added fuel, monitor the Short Term Fuel Trim and Long Term Fuel Trim readings at idle to determine if the engine is showing evidence of lean running indicated by double digit positive readings when the rough running condition occurs.
4. If the Short Term Fuel Trim readings do show to be high, attempt to identify any potential vacuum leak issue by introducing propane, carburetor cleaner, etc near any potential vacuum leak area and look for the Short Term Fuel Trim reading to drop dramatically, pinpointing the area of the leak. Pinch vacuum lines closed which may feed a leaking component such as the heating-ventilation air conditioning system vacuum tank, the brake booster etc. while monitoring fuel trim readings to see if they drop.
5. Check the state of tune-up parts of the engine including spark plug gap, spark output at the spark plug wire ends, etc. and service the components as necessary. Inspect the color and condition of the spark plugs for evidence of rich or lean running.
6. If the state of tune-up parts appear to be ok and the Powertrain Control Module is indicating a lean operating condition but no vacuum leaks are evident, check the fuel injector pulse width. A normal pulse width at idle should indicate a reading of 3.3-3.7 milliseconds.
7. If fuel injector pulse width is high, clean the fuel injectors suspecting a contamination issue.
Contaminated Fuel InjectorLeaking Induction Air SystemLeaking Induction Vacuum SystemOxygen (O2) SensorOxygen (O2) Sensor CircuitOxygen (O2) Sensor ConnectorDefective Tune-Up Parts
YES.. unscrew the front o2 sensor and pull it out. But if you already dropped the exhaust and it still ran the same way, then that settles that.
I do not think its a ECM problem. If there is no fuel Schroeder valve to check fuel pressure, you will need ot tap into the fuel pressure line. You will be able to pick up this test equipment at any local auto parts stores. THe really only good way to check injector on time besides using a scope would be with a scan tool watching live data (injector pulse width).
YES... counter clockwise.
Just be sure the fuel pump is getting power to it before you replace it.
Thanks for the accept and the bonus!
I think we were very close!
Hopefully the vehicle will be fixed soon!
Let me know what they find! It will be interesting to know for future reference.
Talk to you soon!