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I don't have any scan tool results. Attempted to include that info in the initial contact. Ran out of letters. Attempted to get scan results at an Advance Auto, but they said their tool would not read the necessary codes, that I would have to take the truck to a Ford dealer. Would like to avoid that expense if necessary.
My thought was a bad connection at the rear sensor, because that sensor as I understand is a combo sensor for ABS/speed. Drove the car 8 miles with a couple of stops the other night and the ABS indicator did not come on until I made a low speed right turn without using the brakes.
I read info on a forum online that the front sensors could be dirty. These sensors are contained within the front hub assemblies and the only contaminatioin in there is a bleu/green grease. I didn't think the infor applied toXXXXXexplorers.
Wow you guys don't like to answer mutiple questions. I called a dealer and they want $119.00 to run the diagnostics. Won't just read the codes and tell me what they are. They do a bunch of what they call pinpoint checks to track down the cause of the problem.
One thiing mentioned was if the sensors are shown up on the code, they inspect the "tone ring" for cracks. If a tone ring is cracked, does the entire hub assembly have to be changed?
One more time, can the master cylinder switch be checked by simply removing the wire and possible adding a jumber across the connector on the harness?
Sorry about that, A tone ring very well may be cracked. They are only on the rear axles, but if you have just a sensor on the differential, then you do not have this design. The tone rings are for traction control equipped vehicles. The dealer yes would like to do a pinpoint test to verify the problem. Lets say a wheel speed sensor codes comes up and the sensor is not faulty and its the wiring or even the module. They would at least like to tell you the correct part to replace. A jumper cannot be used as the switch works of of brake fluid pressure.
OK, if the brake sensor reads "open" with an ohm meter, does that mean it is probably functioning? It seems that an open condition would be normal until pressure closes the switch, such as during braking. This is probably the same switch involved in the thousands of fire related recalls on the earlier model Explorer. Is that a simple open or closed type switch?
Do most diagnostics shops have the equipment to check the necessary component on the ford explorer?
It would appear that I am going to have to get the diagnostics on this thing. I will wait for a reply about the function of the brake switch before going down that path. If I throw a $100+ sensor at the problem, it could very well not correct the issue.
Maybe a local diagnostics shop can get the codes withoug charging all the extras for pinpoint checks.
One more question. Checked with a diagnostic shop and their cost is much lower than the dealer cost but they can't get to it today. My question is, if I were to correct the problem by throwing parts at it, would I still have to go to a shop to have the codes erased? If the problem is corrected, although the codes are still present in the computer, will the vehicle perform as it should? I didn't think stored codes would affect operation after the problem is solved. What say you?
I guess the Ford tech site is still down since my previous question has not been addressed.
OK, I pulled the connector from the switch and it tested closed, which you said is normal. Started the vehicle and stood on the brakes and rechecked the switch and it was open and remained open for quite awhile. So, I jumpered the connector to close the circuit and test drove the vehicle. No ABS light, and cruise control functions.
Thanks for the help; it took us awhile to get there, but I believe you helped greatly in solving the problem.
I would click the Accept button but wanted to be sure you got this message. Just send a reply and I will click the Accept button.