Hello, I can help you! Have you replaced the ignition controll module?? This is what controlls the spark. This is most often the culprit. It is mounted to the drivers side inner fender, just below the hood hinge pivot bolt. It is about $40 from any parts store. Unplug the harness from it first, then unbolt it from the fender. Clean the mounting surface and replace the module. Then re connect the harness.
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That module is mounted on the drivers side inner fender well, close to the firewall. Open the hood and look below where the hood hinge bolts to the fender, cant miss it. The Napa part number is XXXXX and will cost you about $140. They also have the cheaper one available, number TP33SB for about $65. I have used and had good luck with the cheaper ones if this helps.
As for the lean codes, Id check the fuel filter and see if its plugged. You will need a special tool for this. Thats available at the parts store as well for a few dollars. If this checks out ok and the codes come back, check for vaccum leaks at the hard plastic lines coming from the top of the intake manifold. Follow them to where they go and make sure they are not broken somewhere. If so, get a small piece of hose and couple the ends together. If these are ok, spray a carb cleaner where the upper intake bolts to the lower and around the throttle body. (Engine running) If you notice a jump in idle speed, this tells you that theres a vaccum leak there. If still nothing, the O2 sensors themselves may just be bad as well.
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Understood. The fuel filter just got replaced about 2 months ago, so that should be okay. I've been through the vacuum lines and had to fix a couple. I'll try the spray around those areas if the code persist, however would those lean readings be causing the engine to die and not start back up for an hour - like a control module does? Thanks so much for your help.
If there is a small vacuum leak, it will not cause a no start cond, and you will still have spark. A large vacuum leak may cause a no start, followed by very eratic running, and usually very high idle, but will still spark as well.
Thank You for the bonus, I really appreciate it!
My pleasure! Thanks for the great info, and the quick responses! Two thumbs WAY UP. With regards XXXXX XXXXX no start symptom, I was more concerned that if a sensor like the O2 was giving certain info to the brain/computer - would this cause the motor to shut down and not want to re-start as if it was trying to save the motor during a lean run condition. Thanks again, I really appreciate your time.
This is highly unlikely. I have seen O2 sensors short out and give a no start cond, but it has been only 2 in my life. There is spark though, unlike in your case. A more likely cause would be if the coolant temp sensor was bad. I have seen many of them that when shorted in a certain way, would shut the engine down while driving. If they are shorted internally and tell the comp that the engine is -40 F, the comp floods the engine to help it warm up. A cold engine requires more gat to run than a warm one. When it gives this much at normal operating temp, even driving down the road floods the engine- killing it. But, in this case as well, there is spark.
Thanks again, good luck with your truck!!!
Oh Yea, wou will need the special tool to remove the controll module as well. Napa part number 3197, or 3410. It is a 5.5 mm socket that is ground to fit in the controll module. Or you can grind down the end of a 5.5mm socket to fit in the module. Youll see what I mean.