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Scottshop1
Scottshop1, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 61
Experience:  15 plus years of experience, ASE Certified Auto Repair Garage Owner/Operator
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1996 FORD F250: 2WD, WITH THE 5.8 LITRE ENGINE..DRIVEWAY..DIES..LEAN

Customer Question

I HAVE A 1996 FORD F250, 2WD, WITH THE 5.8 LITRE ENGINE, AUTO TRANS. TRUCK RUNS IN DRIVEWAY FOR UP TO 20 MINS, HOWEVER DIES AFTER ONLY A FEW MILES OF NORMAL DRIVING AND WILL NOT START BACK UP FOR 30-45 MINS. OBD II SCAN CHECK SHOWS LEAN BURN IN BANK 2, BUT NOT MUCH ELSE OF ANY SIGNIFICANCE. NO ONE HAS BEEN ABLE TO FIGURE THIS THING OUT. ALSO, WHEN IT DIES THERE IS NO SPARK TO THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP OR COIL. I'VE REPLACED CAP, ROTOR, WIRES, PLUGS, AND THE COIL. SAME PROBLEM.
Submitted: 4 years ago.
Category: Ford
Expert:  Scottshop1 replied 4 years ago.

Hello, I can help you! Have you replaced the ignition controll module?? This is what controlls the spark. This is most often the culprit. It is mounted to the drivers side inner fender, just below the hood hinge pivot bolt. It is about $40 from any parts store. Unplug the harness from it first, then unbolt it from the fender. Clean the mounting surface and replace the module. Then re connect the harness.

If this helps you, please accept. If you have another question, please respond.

Thenk You!!

Scottshop1, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 61
Experience: 15 plus years of experience, ASE Certified Auto Repair Garage Owner/Operator
Scottshop1 and 6 other Ford Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Thanks for the heads up on that control module. That was actually my next move, however I've been unable to locate the beast. It doesn't have the usual distributor mounted one like the auto parts stores keep telling me about. I've seen those on earlier models, but the flat side of the dist is just bare. My local dealership quoted my $180 for this remote located control module. I'll look for it first thing in the morning and respond. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to locate it, and the parts stores can't come up with a part number or application. HELP
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
ARE YOU THERE? ALSO WANTED TO ASK YOU IF THAT ALONE COULD CAUSE THE OBD II CODES THAT ARE READING LEAN BURN, OR LACK OF FUEL. THE FUEL SYSTEM DOESN'T APPEAR THE BE THE PROBLEM SINCE I CAN HEAR THE PUMP RUNNING, AND THE ONLY THING THAT SEEMS TO BE MISSING IS SPARK. THANKS IN ADVANCE.
Expert:  Scottshop1 replied 4 years ago.

That module is mounted on the drivers side inner fender well, close to the firewall. Open the hood and look below where the hood hinge bolts to the fender, cant miss it. The Napa part number is XXXXX and will cost you about $140. They also have the cheaper one available, number TP33SB for about $65. I have used and had good luck with the cheaper ones if this helps.

As for the lean codes, Id check the fuel filter and see if its plugged. You will need a special tool for this. Thats available at the parts store as well for a few dollars. If this checks out ok and the codes come back, check for vaccum leaks at the hard plastic lines coming from the top of the intake manifold. Follow them to where they go and make sure they are not broken somewhere. If so, get a small piece of hose and couple the ends together. If these are ok, spray a carb cleaner where the upper intake bolts to the lower and around the throttle body. (Engine running) If you notice a jump in idle speed, this tells you that theres a vaccum leak there. If still nothing, the O2 sensors themselves may just be bad as well.

If I have answered your question, please accept. If you have another, please reply.

Thank You!

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Understood. The fuel filter just got replaced about 2 months ago, so that should be okay. I've been through the vacuum lines and had to fix a couple. I'll try the spray around those areas if the code persist, however would those lean readings be causing the engine to die and not start back up for an hour - like a control module does? Thanks so much for your help.

 

Expert:  Scottshop1 replied 4 years ago.

If there is a small vacuum leak, it will not cause a no start cond, and you will still have spark. A large vacuum leak may cause a no start, followed by very eratic running, and usually very high idle, but will still spark as well.

P.S.

Thank You for the bonus, I really appreciate it!

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

My pleasure! Thanks for the great info, and the quick responses! Two thumbs WAY UP. With regards XXXXX XXXXX no start symptom, I was more concerned that if a sensor like the O2 was giving certain info to the brain/computer - would this cause the motor to shut down and not want to re-start as if it was trying to save the motor during a lean run condition. Thanks again, I really appreciate your time.

 

Expert:  Scottshop1 replied 4 years ago.

This is highly unlikely. I have seen O2 sensors short out and give a no start cond, but it has been only 2 in my life. There is spark though, unlike in your case. A more likely cause would be if the coolant temp sensor was bad. I have seen many of them that when shorted in a certain way, would shut the engine down while driving. If they are shorted internally and tell the comp that the engine is -40 F, the comp floods the engine to help it warm up. A cold engine requires more gat to run than a warm one. When it gives this much at normal operating temp, even driving down the road floods the engine- killing it. But, in this case as well, there is spark.

Thanks again, good luck with your truck!!!

Oh Yea, wou will need the special tool to remove the controll module as well. Napa part number 3197, or 3410. It is a 5.5 mm socket that is ground to fit in the controll module. Or you can grind down the end of a 5.5mm socket to fit in the module. Youll see what I mean.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Thanks again for the hints, and info. I did see what you meant about how difficult it would be to get that module off the plate it's screwed to. Got that module changed out, and the problem persisted. Long story short, it was the stator - or pick up coil in the bottom of the distributor. That was a little bit of a project since the sleeve (just above the gear) and the dist gear were a little tuff to remove. Oh well, that was my last shot in the dark for getting this thing fixed, and ended up being the problem all along. Thanks again, I do appreciate your guidance on this one. I would certainly recommend your services in the future.
Expert:  Scottshop1 replied 4 years ago.
Good to hear its running again! I have only ever seen 1 of those pick up coils go bad, 99% of the time its the moodule, just changed another one today matter of fact. Thank you for the reply, good to hear its going again!
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
yes sir! Thanks again - and she's been going strong ever since! Take care.
Expert:  Scottshop1 replied 4 years ago.
Good to hear, thanks for the reply!

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