Ford Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
I would recommend to fix the running issues first, and then go after the transmission issue second (if there still is a problem.) This is because the transmission will not work properly when the engine is performing poorly.
When was the last time the engine was tuned up? No, not just plugs, but a full tune up! The whole nine yards! Any part of the secondary ignition will do this including the ignition coil or coils! This sounds like a classic ignition misfire! They usually go bad under a load like under acceleration, but can be noticeable at any time. It is very important to have your engine equipped with good tune up parts or you may be causing damage to other components of you car like the catalytic converter which can be expensive!
Ignition misfire causes by any bad tune up part and or ignition coil or coils.Bad spark plugs, spark plug wires and cap and rotor (if equipped)Wrong tune up parts spark plug, wires etc...
The quickest way to check the ignition components, is by looking closely for leaking secondary voltage. Visual look at all the tune up parts to see if you can see any sparks coming from any of the wires or coil (or coils) when the vehicle is running. If not, you can put your hand on the coil/coils and wires when the engine is running and see if you feel any small voltage leaking form the tune up parts.
It will leak secondary ignition voltage from the tune up parts caused by high resistance from carbon tracking if they are bad. This is very common if the tune up parts are not changed regularly!
If any is found, the tune up parts are simply bad and will need to be replaced! If none is found than you can spray a mist of water on the tune up parts when the engine is running and see if that causes the engine to stumble or run rough at all. Again, if it does, the tune up parts are bad and will need to be replaced!
Just be sure that there are not air or vacuum leaks.
Let me know how it turns out!
Is the engine misfiring?
Be sure there is is no air or vacuum leaks. Be sure that the air snorkel between the air filter and the throttle body is not cracked or ripped.
Just be sure there are no other vacuum leaks what so ever. Intake make manifold gaskets and any vacuum hoses or lines will need to be checked.
ALso, even if there is no check engine light on, there still could be a code in the computer. Your local auto parts store might scan your computer for free for you.
DEFINITION Engine runs unevenly at idle. If severe, the engine or vehicle may shake. Engine idle speed may vary in RPM. Either condition may be severe enough to stall engine.
Perform the careful visual / physical checks as described in Diagnosis By Symptom/Preliminary Checks . Check for vacuum leaks. Check Powertrain Control Module (PCM) grounds for being clean, tight and proper routing.
FUEL SYSTEM Check:
Diagnostic Trouble Code Tests and Associated Procedures\Related Tests and Information\C Charts\Chart C-2A Injector Coil Test Procedure For fuel in pressure regulator hose. If fuel is present, replace regulator assembly. Evaporative Emission Control (EVAP) system, use Chart C-3 Evaporative Canister Purge Valve Check . See: Diagnostic Trouble Code Tests and Associated Procedures\Related Tests and Information\C Charts\Chart C-3 EVAP Canister Purge Valve Check
The heated oxygen sensor should respond quickly to different throttle positions. If it does not, check the heated oxygen sensor for silicon contamination from fuel or use of improper RTV sealant. The sensor will have a white, powdery coating, and will indicate a high but false signal voltage (rich exhaust indication). The PCM will then reduce the amount of fuel delivered to the engine, causing a severe driveability problem.NOTE : Monitoring Long Term (L.T.) fuel trim and Short Term (S.T.) fuel trim will help identify the cause of some problems. Refer to Typical Tech 1 Data Definitions for an explanation of L.T. fuel trim and ST. fuel trim.
ADDITIONAL CHECKS Check:
Throttle linkage for sticking or binding. Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system, use Chart C-7 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Flow Check .
Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve Check .
A/C signal to PCM, scan tool should indicate A/C is being requested whenever A/C is selected. If problem exists with A/C "ON," check A/C system operation
Crankcase ventilation valve for proper operation.
Service Bulletins for Programable Read Only Memory (PROM) updates. For broken motor mounts.
Generator output voltage. Repair if less than 9 or more than 17.3 volts. Cruise control cable for binding or adjustment.
They should still be able to scan it for you.
If not, you can purchase a code reader for about 40 bucks or see if a local a shop in your area will scan it for free for you.
I found a TSB for this problem. There is a computer reflash to fix this problem.
Here it is!
4.0L - ROUGH IDLE IN DRIVE
ISSUESome 2004-2005 Explorer 4dr/Mountaineer vehicles built before 10/4/2004 with a 4.0L engine may exhibit a rough idle/vibration at base idle with the engine at normal operating temperature and the transmission in drive, which can be felt in the seat and steering column. This condition may also be described as an intermittent shake or bobble at idle.
ACTIONReprogram the powertrain control module (PCM) to the latest calibration using WDS release B33.10 or higher. Calibration files may also be obtained at the website.
Sorry for the delay!
The computer re flash must be done with a scanner that has this capability. This is a pretty involved process. You will have to take it to the Ford Dealership or take it somewhere that has access to a scanner that has the capability to re flash your on board computer.
Thanks for the accept!
Let me know if you have any further questions!
THe plenum would be the intake. If the guy was talking about a vacuum leak, chances are he was suggesting a vacuum leak from possible a bad intake/plenum gasket.
However, if this is the case, this would eventually cause a code to generate in the computer.
Well, it sounds like you have a vacuum leak. This is very common! Open the hood and listen for a hissing sound when the engine is running. Unmetered air can enter the engine through a vacuum leak, a dirty airflow sensor that is not reading airflow accurately, an EGR valve is not closing and is leaking exhaust into the intake manifold, an EGR valve that is allowing too much flow.If it is hard to pinpoint take some brake cleaner or starting fluid around the intake manifold and vacuum lines and see if the engine stumbles or if the idle is affected. Be extremely careful when doing this!
Also, your throttle body may be carboned up and need to be cleaned! This can cause all sorts of idle and hesitation problems. This is caused by the throttle plate not seating properly. The First thing i would do is clean out the throttle body with some throttle plate and intake cleaner and a small brush. Another common cause would be the Idle Air Control motor. This is very common on older cars. The IAC motor gets lazy and cant keep up with the fast idle changes. Also when the IAC motor is out, I rec to check the passages for carbon build up. If they are plugged they need to be cleaned out.
Check for the following conditions:
Poor connection at PCM or IAC motor. Inspect harness connectors for backed out terminals, improper mating, broken locks, improperly formed or damaged terminals, and poor terminal to wire connection. Damaged harness. Inspect the wiring harness for damage. Restricted air intake system. Check for a possible collapsed air intake duct, restricted air filter element, or foreign objects blocking the air intake system. Throttle body. Check for objects blocking the IAC passage or throttle bore, excessive deposits in the IAC passage and on the IAC pintle, and excessive deposits in the throttle bore and on the throttle plate. Check for a sticking throttle plate. Also inspect the IAC passage for deposits or objects which will not allow the IAC pintle to fully extend. Vacuum leak. Check for a condition that causes a vacuum leak, such as disconnected or damaged hoses, leaks at EGR valve and EGR pipe to intake manifold, leaks at throttle body, faulty or incorrectly installed PCV valve, leaks at intake manifold brake booster hose disconnected, oil filler cap, oil level indicator loose or missing, etc..
Well, brake cleaner and starting fluid is flammable so it is dangerous to do this.
If no major vacuum and or air leaks are found, the best way to check for small vacuum leaks are with a smoke machine. A smoke machine is usually used to find small leaks in an evap system. If you decide to go this route, you will need to go to a shop that has a smoke machine and have them smoke your intake manifold along with the air snorkel from the mass air flow sensor to the throttle body to look for any leaks. However, there is a lot of checking and inspecting you can do on your own before you get to this part.
YES! I see this all the time and it is very common. You still might have a vacuum leak! THis is the most common out of all things to cause this rough and or unstable idle.
Have you had the intake smoked for leaks? THis would be the way to go if you cannot find any vacuum leaks.
Another thing that can cause this is the IAC motor. THis is a little more un likely but still a possibility. If you absolutely cannot find anything causing this problem, we might need to change the IAC motor.
THe only other things that I can think of is either the o2 sensors or the mass air flow sensor going bad. THey both could go bad causing this issue as well, but however, they should set a code in the computer if they are bad.
ONe more thing is the fuel pressure regulator. It is located on the fuel rail. It is round, about a quarter size and has a vacuum line going to it. If the regulator is leaking gas than it can cause this problem. Pull off the vacuum line that goes to the regulator. Be absolutely sure there is no gas in the vacuum line. If there is, the diaphragm has ruptured and there is gas entering the engine that is not accounted for and the regulator will need to be replaced!
ALso, I found two TSB's that talk about this rough and or instable idle. One is for the IAC motor and the other is for the intake manifold gaskets going bad causing a vacuum leak.
Article No. 03-3-5
DRIVEABILITY - IDLE AIR CONTROL (IAC) VALVE DIAGNOSTIC SERVICE TIPS
FORD:2000-2003 TAURUS2002 THUNDERBIRD2000-2003 EXPLORER, RANGER2001-2003 EXPLORER SPORT TRAC, EXPLORER SPORT
MERCURY:2000-2003 SABLE, MOUNTAINEER
Some vehicles, may exhibit drivability conditions.
These may include:
^ No start Difficult to start Stall ^ Low idle ^ Rough idle ^ High idle ^ Hesitation/surge while accelerating or at steady speed
These conditions may be intermittent with no Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) and no Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL). In some cases DTC and MIL may be evident.
Trouble cannot be identified with 95% of returned Idle Air Control (IAC) valves. The following procedure is supplemental information to normal diagnostics to facilitate accurate identification of malfunctioning valves. These symptoms would include engine stall, hard start, crank/no start, idling problems, and Idle Speed Control System related DTC's.
Driveability - Vacuum Leak Detection
^ DRIVEABILITY - DETECTING VACUUM LEAKS - USING THE ROTUNDA VACUTEC 522 SMOKE LEAK DETECTOR MACHINE ^ DRIVEABILITY - DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES(DTC) P0171, AND/OR P0174 - DETECTING VACUUM LEAKS - USING THE ROTUNDA VACUTEC 522 SMOKE LEAK DETECTOR MACHINE FORD: 1997-2000 CONTOUR1997-2001 ESCORT1997-2002 CROWN VICTORIA, MUSTANG, TAURUS2000-2002 FOCUS2002 THUNDERBIRD1997-1998 F-250 HD, F-250 LD1997-2002 E SERIES, EXPEDITION, EXPLORER SPORT, EXPLORER, F-150, RANGER, WINDSTAR1999-2002 SUPER DUTY F SERIES2000-2002 EXCURSION2001 ESCAPE2001-2002 EXPLORER SPORT TRAC
LINCOLN:1997-2002 CONTINENTAL, TOWN CAR2000-2002 LS1998-2002 NAVIGATOR2002 BLACKWOOD
MERCURY: 1997 COUGAR, TRACER1997-2000 MYSTIQUE1997-2002 GRAND MARQUIS, SABLE1999-2002 COUGAR1997-2002 MOUNTAINEER
ISSUESome vehicles may exhibit vacuum or air leaks in the Intake Manifold and/or Engine System causing DTC's, P0171 (System Too Lean (BANK 1), and/or P0174 (System Too Lean (BANK 11). This article can also be used if you suspect a vacuum leak that has not generated a DTC.
ACTIONUse the Rotunda's Vacutec 522 - Smoke Leak Detector Machine to help detect vacuum or air leaks in the engine compartment air intake or vacuum system. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
NOTE IGNITION KEY AND ENGINE MUST BE TURNED OFF AT ALL TIMES DURING THIS DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE.
VEHICLE PREPARATIONPrepare vehicle for a hoist (if necessary).
1. Visually inspect the engine Intake Manifold and Engine System for loose, broken or disconnected hoses etc...
a. If you find a leak condition, repair by using the appropriate model year PC/ED or Workshop Manual. Verify the fix for this repair by using this Vehicle Preparation and Diagnostic Procedure. b. If you DO NOT locate the Intake Manifold and Engine System leak condition, perform the following steps included in the Vehicle Preparation and Diagnostic Procedure. 2. In the topside of the engine compartment, remove any plastic shields that could be covering the Throttle Body or Intake Manifold. 3. Remove the Air Cleaner Outlet Tube Assembly (Zip Tube) on the Throttle Body side. Plug the Throttle Body inlet opening with the proper Cap Plug located in the Rotunda Vacutec - 522 kit.
a. Plug or tape the ends of the closure hose(s) if equipped (usually attached to the Air Cleaner Outlet Tube Assembly (Zip Tube)) for best results. 4. Plug the tail pipe(s) with the tapered rubber cone (218-00003). 5. Locate a small manifold vacuum source/port to the Intake Manifold (if equipped). It is recommended to use the vehicle's manifold vacuum source from the Vapor Management Valve (VMV) port. 6. Insert the nozzle from the Black Hose which is located on the right side of the Rotunda's Vacutec 522 Unit into the Intake Manifold vacuum source. This Black Hose will release SMOKE only. DO NOT use the clear hose (air Pressure source). 7. Power Supply - 12V DC: Attach the Remote Starter Power Cables located on the left side of the Rotunda Vacutec - 522 unit to the subject vehicle battery. NOTE BATTERY NEEDS TO BE IN GOOD WORKING ORDER TO RUN THE SMOKE LEAK DETECTOR MACHINE.
8. Hook up the Halogen spotlight (218-00008) cables on the vehicle battery terminals. This is a high intensity light source will help locate the smoke in the engine compartment.
DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE FOR LOCATING LEAKS WITH THE ROTUNDA'S VACUTEC - 522 SMOKE LEAK DETECTOR MACHINE
NOTE YOU WILL SEE SMOKE DURING THE FOLLOWING DIAGNOSTIC SMOKE MACHINE PROCEDURE FROM THE FOLLOWING COMPONENTS (IF EQUIPPED): EGR VALVE, EVR, IAC SOLENOID (ONLY IF EQUIPPED WITH AN EXTERNAL CAP VENT) AND IMRC. THE SMOKE WILL BE VISIBLE WITH THESE COMPONENTS UNDER PRESSURE (13 INCHES OF WATER (1/2 PSI)).
NOTE DO NOT CHANGE ANY OF THESE COMPONENTS UNLESS THEY HAVE GENERATED THEIR SPECIFIC DTC.
1. Turn the selector valve to "Smoke" position. 2. Verify that the nozzle from the "Black Hose" is inserted in the manifold vacuum hose (Step 6 of Vehicle Prep) to pressurize Intake Manifold and Engine System with smoke only. 3. Check the "Power Supply Light" (Green Light ON) located on the Rotunda Vacutec 522 Panel housing when the Vacutec - 522 Remote Starter Power Supply Line (Cables) are secured to the vehicle's battery terminals. 4. Pick up the Rotunda's Vacutec - 522 Remote Starter which is located with the Power Supply Line (Battery Cables). NOTE THE REMOTE STARTER RELEASES THE SMOKE INTO THE VACUUM HOSE THROUGH THE BLACK HOSE NOZZLE INTO THE ENGINE.
5. Check the "Smoke Indicator Light" (Red Light "ON" will illuminate when the remote starter trigger is pushed) located on the panel of the Rotunda Vacutec - 522 unit. 6. Check that the Halogen Spotlight is secured to the vehicle's battery terminals. 7. Remove the oil fill cap. 8. Push the Rotunda's Vacutec Remote Starter Trigger which will release the Smoke into the Intake Manifold and Engine System until you see smoke coming from the oil fill cap opening (neck). 9. Once the smoke is visible from the oil fill cap opening, quickly tighten the oil fill cap to seal up the oil system.
a. Push the Remote Starter Trigger until the Intake Manifold and Engine System have reached maximum pressure (13 inches of water (1/2 PSI)). NOTE WHEN THE INTAKE MANIFOLD AND ENGINE SYSTEM HAS REACHED MAXIMUM PRESSURE, YOU MAY SEE SMOKE COMING FROM THE RELIEF VALVE LOCATED ON THE REAR SIDE OF THE ROTUNDA VACUTEC - 522 UNIT. STOP PUSHING THE REMOTE STARTER TRIGGER.
10. Start looking for smoke on the topside of the engine compartment. Push the Remote Starter a few more times while you are looking for the smoke. 11. It there's no smoke visible on the topside of the engine compartment, secure the vehicle safely on a hoist. 12. Push the Rotunda Vacutec remote starter trigger to refill to the maximum pressure of the Intake Manifold and Engine System with smoke again. NOTE WHEN THE INTAKE MANIFOLD AND ENGINE SYSTEM HAS REACHED MAXIMUM PRESSURE, YOU MAY SEE SMOKE COMING FROM THE RELIEF VALVE LOCATED ON THE REAR SIDE OF THE ROTUNDA VACUTEC - 522 UNIT. STOP PUSHING THE REMOTE STARTER BUTTON.
13. Check the underside of the engine compartment for smoke. NOTE IF YOU DON'T SEE SMOKE AND ARE UNABLE TO LOCATE THE LEAK, REFER TO THE PC/ED MANUAL OR WORKSHOP MANUAL FOR OTHER DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURES.
NOTE IT IS POSSIBLE TO HAVE A VACUUM OR AIR LEAK INSIDE THE VEHICLE IN THE PASSENGER COMPARTMENT. IF NO EXTERNAL LEAKS ARE FOUND, BE SURE TO VERIFY THAT NO SMOKE IS VISIBLE IN THE INTERIOR OF THE VEHICLE.
14. If you see the smoke, repair the leak source after carefully removing Halogen Light and Rotunda's Vacutec - 522 Remote Starter Power supply cables from the vehicle's battery terminals. Note: Follow PC/ED or Workshop Manual procedure for repairing the specific leak. 15. When the repair is completed. Clear DTC's if applicable. Repeat Step 1-13 only once to verify that the leak is repaired. 16. When the repair is verified and completed (Under Diagnostic Procedure Steps 1-13), perform the following:
a. Remove all diagnostic equipment from vehicle: tail pipe cone, car caps, halogen light, remote starter Power Supply Lines (Battery Cables), Black Hose, nozzle and tape used during this procedure. b. Re-install the Intake Manifold vacuum source to the VMV port (it used) or any other Intake Manifold vacuum source as originally equipped. c. Tightened all clamps and re-install all electric connectors and Plastic Shields (if equipped) that were removed during this test procedure. d. Release vehicle.