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Ron
Ron, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 27385
Experience:  23 years with Ford specializing in drivability and electrical and AC. Ford certs and ASE Certs
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what is the egr valve setting for my 1991 ford f150 4.9l e

Customer Question

what is the egr valve setting for my 1991 ford f150 4.9l engine
Submitted: 5 years ago.
Category: Ford
Expert:  Brad B replied 5 years ago.

Hey EJ;

 

Are you asking on how to replace the EGR? The valve itself has no setting.

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
I have arlready replaced EGR valve. I was getting and check engine light, was still getting that, so I ask on here and found out I needed to replace EGR vacuum valve, I did, Now no light, was good for a few weeks, then I am now having a miss. I have all new wires, plugs, rotor and distributor cap. took to ford dealer, they could, find the miss, they cleaned and check fuel injectors all okay, now took to anothe mechanace, he states if he takes vacuum off EGR valver and plugs it up runs good. The he looked at a Alldata and hter is supposed to be 4 settings. He asked me to contact Ford. but it seems no knows anything. He sated could be lookup by vin number which is 1ftd15yxmna12511
Expert:  Brad B replied 5 years ago.
I have looked up on alldata and am not seeing anything about 4 different settings, I am not familiar with an EGR that has different settings. I havn't dealt much with the 300 straight six engine, and will opt out on this question to let another tech properly assist you with your issue.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Okay, what do I do now? The last Guy I had knew about my truck, I forgot his name.
Expert:  Ron replied 5 years ago.

HiCustomer

 

Thank you for asking your question on JustAnswer.

 

New expert here. The EGR valve is controlled by a signel from the PCM (computer) to ground switch the EVR which you have replace if I am reading your answer right. If you are holding constant vacuum on the EGR valve at idle then you eaither have a bad EVR (not likely) or the circuit is grounded to it, (maybe) or as in most cases you have a bad PCM. I would start with having your mechanic check to see if the red wire is constant hot with key on and the black wire is a good ground.

 

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
You cant beleive, one of his empolyees, just dropped off a copy of alldata article. it is articale number 95-2-10 Some of thses 3 letter acromims mean little to me. But I will call him.
Expert:  Ron replied 5 years ago.

Yes , I can belive it. As I stated you likely have a bad PCM.

 

Here is the TSB as well.

 

Article No.
95-2-10

 

01/30/95

^HESITATION/SURGE - CRUISE - DURING MILE PER GALLON (MPG) MODE OPERATION - NO DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTC) STORED IN MEMORY - 4.9L ENGINE

 

^HESITATION/SURGE - LIGHT ACCELERATION - MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT (MIL) "ON" - DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) 179 STORED IN MEMORY - 4.9L ENGINE

 

^HESITATION/SURGE - LIGHT ACCELERATION - MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT (MIL) "ON" - DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) 179 STORED IN MEMORY - 4.9L ENGINE

 

LIGHT TRUCK:
1991-92 BRONCO
1991-94 ECONOLINE, F-150-350 SERIES

 

This TSB is being republished in its entirety to correct the PCM listing in Figure 7.

CALIBRATION:
1-51E-ROO, 1-51F-ROO, 1-51H-ROO, 1-51R-ROO, 1-51G-ROO, 1-52H-ROO, 1-52J-ROO, 1-52R-ROO, 1-52S-ROO, 1-52K-ROO, 1-52Q-ROO, 2-51E-ROO, 2-51F-ROO, 2-51H-ROO, 2-51R-ROO, 2-51G-ROO, 2-52H-ROO, 2-52J-ROO, 2-52R-ROO, 2-52S-ROO, 2-52K-ROO, 2-52Q-ROO, 2-52L-ROO, 3-51F-ROO, 3-51F-R10, 3-52J-R10

 

WARNING: THIS MODIFICATION IS AUTHORIZED ONLY FOR THE LISTED ENGINE. PERFORMING THIS MODIFICATION ON OTHER ENGINE CALIBRATIONS IS UNAUTHORIZED AND COULD CREATE LIABILITY UNDER APPLICABLE FEDERAL OR LOCAL LAWS.

 

ISSUE:

Engine hesitation/surge during light acceleration may be caused by:

^Incorrect service Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve installed

 

^Restricted exhaust system

 

^Calibrations.

 

Engine hesitation/surge during steady cruise (greater than 50 mph (80 km/h) and no DTC'S) may be caused by:

^The calibration of the MPG mode (only with calibrations 3-51F-ROO, 3-51F-R10, or 3-52J-R10).

 

ACTION:
Refer to the following procedures and figure charts for diagnosis and repair.

 

DIAGNOSIS AND REPAIR PROCEDURE

NOTE: IF ONLY DTC 179 WAS SET AND NO HESITATION/SURGE CONDITION EXISTS, DO NOT REPLACE THE PCM. REFER TO THE POWERTRAIN CONTROL/EMISSIONS DIAGNOSIS (PC/ED) MANUAL, FOR THE APPROPRIATE PINPOINT TESTS AND SERVICE AS REQUIRED.

 




 

1.Verify the vehicle has the proper EGR valve installed. Refer to the charts to check which EGR valve is required. Replace the EGR valve with the proper service replacement EGR valve, if required (Figures 1 through 4).

 

NOTE: PROPER DIAGNOSIS FOR A RESTRICTED EXHAUST SYSTEM IS ESSENTIAL BEFORE ANY COMPONENTS ARE REPLACED. REFER TO THE APPROPRIATE PC/ED SERVICE MANUAL FOR CATALYST AND EXHAUST SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS AND TEST PROCEDURES.

 

WARNING: TO PREVENT SERIOUS BURNS, ALWAYS ALLOW AMPLE COOLING TIME AND WEAR PROTECTIVE GLOVES BEFORE WORKING WITH EXHAUST SYSTEM PARTS.

 

2.Visually inspect the entire exhaust system for any obvious signs of restriction. If any restriction is noted, service the fault. Refer to the appropriate year Econoline/F-Series/Bronco Service Manual, Group 9, Exhaust System, for service.

 

CAUTION: THE H02S (HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR) ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR MUST BE DISCONNECTED TO AVOID EXCESSIVELY RICH AIR/FUEL MIXTURE DURING TESTING.

 

3.Disconnect the electrical connector from the Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S).

 

4.Remove and retain the HO2S from the catalyst inlet pipe.

 

5.Install Exhaust Back Pressure Gauge (D95L-6000-A) into the catalyst inlet pipe.

 

6.Disconnect and cap the vacuum hose to the Air Injection Reaction (AIR) Bypass Valve.

 

7.With the engine idling at normal operating temperature, observe the Exhaust System Backpressure reading of the gauge. The reading should not exceed 8.6 kPa (1.25 psi).

 

8.Increase engine speed to 3000 RPM and hold for 3 seconds, while observing the readings of the gauge. The readings should not exceed 20.7 kPa (3.00 psi).

 




 

9.If gauge readings at either engine speed are within specifications, and the hesitation/surge condition still exists, reinstall the HO2S (if required, apply a light coat of Loctite Nickel Anti-Seize PN 23508 to the threads of the sensor), reconnect the vacuum hose to the Air Injection Reaction (AIR) Bypass Valve, and replace the PCM. Refer to PCM replacement figure charts (Figures 5 through 8).

 

10.If gauge readings at either engine speed are not within specifications, a restricted exhaust system condition exists. Repeat Steps 7 through 9 by disconnecting individual exhaust system parts one at a time, starting at the back, until the faulty part is found. Replace only the faulty part. If the catalytic converter is found to be at fault, refer to the following Supplemental Diagnostic Instructions, also refer to Section 15A of the PC/ED to find the root cause of the failure.

 

11.Clear any DTC's falsely set during the exhaust system backpressure testing.

 

SUPPLEMENTAL DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURES
If the catalytic converter is found to be the root cause of the symptom, the following areas should be checked:

 

1.Proper operation of the H02S. A defective H02S can give the following results in testing:

 

^HO2S inoperative

 

^HO2S circuit open or shorted

 

^HO2S bias rich

 

^HO2S bias lean or not grounded

 

^HO2S slow to switch, from lean to rich

 

^HO2S slow to switch, from rich to lean.

 

NOTE: ANY OF THE ABOVE CONDITIONS CAN CAUSE ADDITIONAL HEAT THROUGH THE CATALYST. PERFORM THE SELF TEST KOEO AND KOER AS OUTLINED IN THE PC/ED MANUAL, SECTION 2A, FOR DIAGNOSTIC ROUTINES.

 

NOTE: CHECK THE H02S GROUND CIRCUIT IF DTC'S 171, 172, 173, 179, 181, 182, 183, AND 565 ARE FOUND.

 

2.If the H02S circuit is operating properly, visually inspect the entire emissions system for proper operation. The following areas should be checked:

 

^Ignition coil

 

^Distributor cap

 

^Distributor rotor

 

^Spark plug(s) condition

 

^Engine air cleaner (ACL) system

 

^Intake or exhaust manifold leaks

 

^Fuel injector(s) stuck open/shut

 

^Wrong or contaminated fuel

 

^Fuel pressure/leak down

 

^Fuel contaminated engine oil

 

^Poor system (power) ground

 

^Engine not at normal operating temperature (faulty thermostat)

 

^CANP system.

 

When performing the checks, also check the following areas:

^All wiring harnesses and connectors for corrosion, insulation damage, burned, overheated, loose or broken conditions.

 

^Vacuum hoses for proper routing and condition.

 

^Spark plug wires properly routed and securely connected.

 

^Proper operation of the engine cooling thermostat.

 

3.Improper ignition timing can cause additional heat through the catalyst. Perform the following tests and check ignition timing:

 

a.Disconnect the Spark Out (SPOUT) shorting bar.

 

b.With a timing light, check base timing. If base timing is not within the specifications listed on the emissions decal, adjust timing to specifications.

 

c.Reconnect the SPOUT shorting bar.

 

d.With a timing light, check the PCM operation of computed timing.

 

4.Misfiring spark plugs may allow an unburned air/fuel mixture to enter the catalyst and create higher than normal catalyst temperatures. Perform the following tests and check spark plugs:

 

^Check secondary ignition with an engine analyzer for an ignition misfire.

 

5.High fuel pressure may allow a rich air/fuel mixture to enter the catalyst and create higher than normal catalyst temperatures. Perform the following tests and check fuel pressure:

 

a.Install fuel pressure gauge (T80L-9974-B).

 

b.Start and warm up the vehicle to normal operating temperature.

 

c.With the engine idling, check fuel pressure gauge readings. Typical gauge values will range from 43-49 psi (296.5-338 kPa).

 

d.Disconnect and cap the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose.

 

e.Check fuel pressure gauge readings. Values should increase to a range of 52-58 psi (358.5-400 kPa).

 

NOTE: FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE READINGS GREATER THAN THESE VALUES NEED TO BE CORRECTED. HOWEVER, THIS FAULT MAY NOT BE THE CAUSE OF THE SYMPTOMS.

 

f.Reconnect the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose.

 

g.Shut engine off. Fuel pressure gauge values should hold within 5 psi (34.5 kPa) for 60 seconds. If the gauge values drop greater than 5 psi (34.5 kPa) in 60 seconds, refer to the PC/ED Manual and correct the leak down condition.

 

h.Remove fuel pressure gauge.

 

6.Partially open throttle plates may allow a rich air/fuel mixture to enter the catalyst during high vacuum decelerations and create higher than normal catalyst temperatures. Perform the following tests and check throttle body operation:

 

NOTE:NON-OEM EQUIPMENT, IMPROPERLY INSTALLED, CAN INTERFERE WITH PROPER OPERATION OF THE THROTTLE BODY. THESE ITEMS MAY INCLUDE GOVERNORS, THROTTLE LINKAGES FOR POWER TAKE-OFF UNITS, ETC. THIS FAULT COULD BE THE CAUSE OF THE SYMPTOMS AND MUST BE SERVICED AS REQUIRED.

 

a.Visually inspect the throttle body and linkages for:

 

^Binding or sticking throttle linkages

 

^Binding or sticking speed control linkages

 

^Vacuum hose restriction or interference

 

^Electrical harness interference

 

^Restrictive material within the Engine Air Cleaner (ACL).

 

7.Proper operation of the Air Injection Reaction (AIR) system. Visually inspect the AIR system for damaged or kinked hoses. Perform a function test on the following components:

 

^AIR diverter solenoid

 

^AIR bypass solenoid

 

^AIR filter

 

^Check valve

 

^Silencer.

 

8.Proper operation of the Idle Air Control (IAC) system. Perform an idle speed mode test to verify proper operation of the IAC valve.

 

Obtain an Authorized Modifications Decal and list the date, dealer number, and summary of alterations performed. Select a prominent place adjacent to the Vehicle Emission Control Information Decal suitable for installing the Authorized Modifications Decal. Clean the area, install the decal, and cover it with a clear plastic decal shield

Ron, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 27385
Experience: 23 years with Ford specializing in drivability and electrical and AC. Ford certs and ASE Certs
Ron and 12 other Ford Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
I called and my mechanic is closed tonight and I am going to bring you ans to him in the morning.
Expert:  Ron replied 5 years ago.
Ok, this will likely correct your issue as it was very common. Let me know if I can help him get your truck back in good shape.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
I have tried to accept. would not work, I told him about Just answers, going to bring your ans to him in the morning.
EJ
Expert:  Ron replied 5 years ago.
All you have to do is hit the green button like before, it dosnt close the question, we can speak latter if you need me. Thank you very much as well.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Talked to service tech this morning, it is not egr settings he wanted ( service writer got it wrong) It is the emmissions control settings he is looking for. This truck has been repainted and settings are not on door column and the valve has been replaced and not on that. He stated he had checked to egr system, comes on and off. But, getting to much air(?) exhaust into intake at idle which is causing Trk to miss fire.
Expert:  Ron replied 5 years ago.
Thats because the EGR isnt suppose to operate during idle. The PCM controls the EVR (egr vacuum regulator) which directs the vacuum to the EGR valve. If you have EGR flow at idle, and your sure the EVR is new then you likely have a bad PCM as stated in the TSB. There are no setting for the EGR.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Sorry, my service will not accept your answer. he wants to think it if the aftermarket EGR valve and Sensor is the problem. I did find the number he was looking for it was 1-52hr00a. so he is ordering Motorcraft parts today and replace these parts. will see, thanks for you help.
Expert:  Ron replied 5 years ago.
The EGR valve should not be open at idle and should have no vacuum at idle eaither. Best of luck to you.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
I replied to your e-mail and also sent a message to customer service. I am really not trying to cheat you out of the money. Service tech, stated, if replacing the parts with Motorcraft, did not fix, then he would put the old ones back on and not charge for the new ones. If you want I'll let you know.
Expert:  Ron replied 5 years ago.

I dont think your trying to cheat me. Yes I would like to know how it goes. No problem here.

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Well Ron, after having the truck for two weeks the Service tech gave up on my truck. He states that no vacuumn on egr at idle and checked for vac leaks, found none, had the exhaust check at the catylitic(sp) convertor no back pressure, check to see if computer was turning on and off the egr vacumn control valve. The did replace and took off Motorcarft Egr and sensor, he thought it might be that. He did not replace computer, because his checks said it was working like it is supposed to. My parts guy wanted to sell me a idle air control valve, but, service tech stated not jus missing in idle does also on acceleration, infact sometimes stumbles. and going constant spped of 30, notice missing some. Got any more ideas. Oh, the only ignition parts I have not replaced is coil and ignition control module. He also did a compression check and that was ok.
Expert:  Ron replied 5 years ago.
Its been a while since we spoke, explain the problem you are having again to refresh my memory.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
I had a long block, put in about 3 months ago, and replace spark pulg wire Belkin Napa parts motorcraft spark plugs distributor cap and rotor. started missing, so tech replace plugs and wires again, to to local ford dealer and his tech cleaned and checked the fuel ingectors and could figure out why missing. Oh, does not miss when first sarted up, when running in open loop. that usually fairly 30 seconds or so. but after it goes into normal idle, it is missing. does not seem like a regular miss, tryed taking off plug wires one at a time. no change, could not determine any one cyclinder nort firing. Then I took it to the next Tech and he that is wa getting to much feed back air and was going into EGR valve, that I already replace. Found no problem with that. the rest is in last msg, not regular miss, misses on idle acceleration, again sometimes stumbels, and misses on constant speed, hard to notice at higher speed. but could be.
Expert:  Ron replied 5 years ago.

HiCustomer

 

Thank you for asking your question on JustAnswer

 

An intermittent engine miss at idle and slower speeds can be caused by a lean engine condition. Are you sure the intake is sealing?

 

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
The tech that replace engine used new gaskets on the intake manifold. both ford tech and theis last one, also thought that and checked for leaking, I think mostly with spray test. It is runnig lean, or atleast I saw the original plugs when they were replace and thy were very clean. But, I am only getting 12.5 miles per gallon.
Expert:  Ron replied 5 years ago.

And you are sure the EGR valve isnt being held open?

 

Have you tried removing the vacuum line from the EGR valve?

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
I am taking the word of the tech, and he did not charge anything after working on it for 2 weeks. that there is no vacumn on egr at idle. I did tell you, he did replace my aftremarket EGR with motorcraft and did not fix the problem. so, put my EGR valve back on.
Expert:  Ron replied 5 years ago.
Ok because you do not want any vacuum at the EGR at idle. Excessive base timing can cause this type of miss as well. You need to make sure the timing is set at 10 BTDC with the SPOUT disconnected. Is It? Also, did this miss start after the first tune up was done?
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
That was and has been checked several times by all three Techs. I watched the original tech do his check and he did diconnect the spout.

I really started to notice the miss. Note: I was getting a check engine light off oan on with acceleration. Anthoney, turned me on to the vacumn switch to EGR valve, not what it is called, but anyways I replaced that and it then turned off the check engine light and all was well. then maybe a week later, is when I notice the miss. I thought it might be vac leak, so I went around and either replace or checked for vacumn leak. That is when I started asking and running around trying to run down this problem. I have taken to 3 techs and asked you and no is comming up a good answer. I did, after our last communications directed the last tech to that valve and assured me it was working and that there is no vacumn on EGR at idle.
Expert:  Ron replied 5 years ago.

HiCustomer

 

Thank you for asking your question on JustAnswer.

 

Well just for the heck of it, try unplugging and plugging the hose and try it for a minute.

 

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
I was sitting around in my underware, so had put some cloths on. I went out and started trk up and waited for it to go into closed loop. I unpluge EGR valve, no diff. I also have a value tester an plug it ito vac line and showed no vacumn.
Expert:  Ron replied 5 years ago.

HiCustomer

 

Thank you for asking your question on JustAnswer.

 

Ok well then its time to go back to basics, compression test, on each cylinder,power blance on each cylinder. It takes fuel, spark and compression as well as a good sealing engine to fire right. Something is being over looked. Its hard for me to tell from where I am at. I can open the question back up and see if anyone else can come up with new ideas if you would like.

 

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Yes, the compression checked okay. Like I said, first tech works for Utility company that has all ford truck, took to XXXXX XXXXX=dson Ford Here in Jacksonville, then an independant Tech, who knwe someother Tech that work on ford and no has an answer. I would not like to live with it. I have to much money into basic truck with repalcing engines etc. A/c work and new interior and paint job, that I don't want to dump the truck.
Expert:  Ron replied 5 years ago.
Well something is being over looked and I can not tell for sure what it is from where I am.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
okay I guess I need to ask someothers on theis site, Maybe Anthoney he seems to have about as much experience as you, or some other person, that might have found the answer before.
Expert:  Ron replied 5 years ago.

HiCustomer

 

Thank you for asking your question on JustAnswer.

 

Let me send this question to Anthoney, hold on a few minutes. He will respond.

 

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
okay... waiting.
Expert:  Ron replied 5 years ago.
Please dont respond to me because it causes him to be locked out.
Expert:  Anthony replied 5 years ago.
Hello again, Ron has brought this QA to my attention. The post looks very long and I can see everyones working very hard on a solution. What is exactly going on with your truck?
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
after I replaced the EGR vacuum selenoid you told me to replace which worked for engine coming on and off. I notice maybe 2- 3 weeks later the trk was missing, mostly notice at Idle, but would stumble sometime on acceleration and up 40 miles an hour I noticed a miss. at 55 or above, old trk is noisey etc. so I really don't notice. I have had the EGR system check, compression check, vacumn checked, plugs wires and plugs replaced again, took to local ford dealer they check injection and clean it and found no problem, but could not fix. I had to indepentant Tech had it for 2 weeks with no success. Had back press checked from cat converter, He talked to other tech he knew and no one has an answer. he thought for awhile it had something to do with aftermarket EGR valve, he replaced with Motorcraft and no success. Now ron has thrown up his hands. Oh, the last thing Ron had me do was to pull vac off EGR at idle and see if that made a diff. I also had a Vac gauge and checked for vacumn at idle, none. Oh, and the techs have check for vac leak or leak on intake.
Expert:  Anthony replied 5 years ago.
Ok, so the engine is running uneven but does not have a dead miss?
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
No, not a dead miss. The Tech that replace engine and replaced plugs and wire again un warranty, tried to do the old pulled plug wire off one of a time and we could not see any diffenanent(sp) miss. Looked at plug when replace and did see anything wrong, infact they were very clean. that is he tried the old spray the intake for leaks.
Expert:  Anthony replied 5 years ago.
Ok, three things need to be checked. First, the intake has to be "smoke tested" with a smoke machine to be definately sure that it isnt leaking. The spray trick just dosent cut it. Second, a cylinder leakdown test needs to be performed to see if the engine's integrity isnt compromised in any way. This test is different than a compression test. Third, an injector flow test nees to be done to see if one injector isnt out of balance. One of these tests has to show something if they are all done right. Id say injector issue but thats just a guess. Please have these things performend and let me know the results.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
When I had it at the Local ford dealer, he did clean and checked the proper spary and told me it id good. I'll have to find someone to do the other checks. This is a New rebuilt long block. But, I will also have to find someone who will do that. maybe call the engine rebuilder. So, these check will probably take a bit to run down.

EJ
Expert:  Anthony replied 5 years ago.
Ok, sounds good. One of those tests has to fail so just makw sure whomever is doing them is really doing them right.

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Ford Mechanic
27385 Satisfied Customers
23 years with Ford specializing in drivability and electrical and AC. Ford certs and ASE Certs