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Chuck
Chuck, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Ford
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Experience:  33 Years Experience,Ford Senior Master,ASE Master,L1 Advanced Engine Performance
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96 ford explorer: door lock solenoid oin the drivers door..cylinder

Resolved Question:

I have a 96 ford explorer with a door lock problem to begin with the drivers unlock works but the lock doesn't operate anything all other switches work fine,except for operating door lock solenoid oin the drivers door which is operating if manually fed pwr. and gnd. this model also has a key pad and some sort of switch on the drivers door key cylinder wich neither one operates anything, I take it that the door key should lock all doors when turned? any help would gratuitously be appreciated
Submitted: 5 years ago.
Category: Ford
Expert:  Chuck replied 5 years ago.

If I understand you correctly the drivers door lock switch will unlock the doors but will not lock them? You are wondering what the switch on the lock cylinder is for? What happens when you press the last 2 buttons on the keypad at the same time? Does the doors lock then?

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
no but dome light activates
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
also door lock code does not work I got it of of the interface at the drivers rear panel access
Expert:  Chuck replied 5 years ago.

Will the passenger door lock switch lock the drivers side?

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
no
Expert:  Chuck replied 5 years ago.

Sounds like you have a wiring problem then. Check the PK/BK wire at the switch 1st it should have power when lock is pressed then make sure you have it at the actuator.The PK/O will be ground when lock is pressed. They will swap when you go to unlock.

 

When you input your keyless entry code and the press the 3/4 button will the other doors unlock then?

 

The switch on the door lock cylinder is just an alarm disarm switch, this is all it does.

Expert:  Chuck replied 5 years ago.
Sorry gave you the wrong wire colors at the switch itself. From the switch the lock postion PK/LG and PK/Y.They then go to the relays before going to the actuators.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
I have 5 wires to the driv, dr. switch
2 black
1-pink w/green tracer has pwr. still, neg. on unlock
1-pink/yell tracer- dead
1-red w/black tracer also nothing
keypad unlocks all dors but the drivers
Expert:  Chuck replied 5 years ago.

Here are the schematics for the locks. Maybe this will help you pin-point the concern.

It looks as if the switch just grounds the coil side of the relays.Then the actuator is controlled by the relays.The relays are located in the left quarter panel. You should be able to access then thru the cup holder. see the 1st pic F6 location relay box no.4.

 

graphic

 

 

graphic

 

graphic

 

graphic

Expert:  Chuck replied 5 years ago.
If the other doors lock from the drivers switch then switch would be ok. Your problem would have to be the 2 wires from the relay to the door lock actuator,PK/O and PK/BK. I would suspect the problem to be at the connector in the door jamb on the A-pillar. One should be hot in lock and the other ground then swap when you go to the other postion.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
checked relays everything was fine except door trigger from drivers door, took bottom of dash apart and kick panel, there was a car start remote entry device installed no remotes came w/ the vehicle though when I bought it, the install looked real clean and I checked the two wires they tied into for the kless entry and one was broke inside the door rubber(the pink and yellow one!) I spliced and soldered a new peice of wire in and WALLAH door lock switch works!So the problem was in the A pillar but still do not have a working actuator in driver door ,it has two wires 1- red/ orange has groumd at rest and none on unlock the other wire pink/blk. is dead both ways
so far so good just this one more glitch, anymore clues? I tugged on all the other wires in the A-pillar and only found the one broken, probobly got pulled trying to gain access for a T-tap
Expert:  Chuck replied 5 years ago.

Can you find these wires inside the pillar behind the kick panel? See if you have it there.

I suspect the PK/O or RD/O is broken somewhere.

Try running a jumper wire from the actuator to the wire in the kick panel momentarily and see if that makes it work.

Chuck, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 2100
Experience: 33 Years Experience,Ford Senior Master,ASE Master,L1 Advanced Engine Performance
Chuck and 4 other Ford Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
sure enough it was a pk/blk wire broke inside the "can" on the door, I hate tugging on door wires just because of this problem and it isn't just a ford problem , You just don't get any slack in these harnesses anymore! well problem solved and I greatly appreciate you're time and defintly will ask you,re advice again , greatly satisfied!!! David B, Custom Unlimited

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Chuck
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