Actually, I purchased a used control switch for driver side from a reputable used car parts place but apparently that was not it (which was a loss to me because now I'm stuck with it).
You said to get both motors? The passenger side works so is it just the drivers side motor? Would that make it click under the dash (under steering wheel)? If I do need to purchase a used motor, I would like to know how to install it. If you could give me that information, it would be greatly appreciated.
the Motor is either Frozen because the Window is Stuck, Gear is jammed, or the Motor Armature is burned (typical) The fact that the window is not engaging is what causes the clicking noise or there could be a problem with the relay but 9 out of 10 times it is the motor but try this first and then go from there...
Make sure the motor is in fact bad... Many times they just stop working because the armature brushes hang up and will not make contact with the motor armature. Sometimes you can slam the car door and this will jar the brushes and they will make contact with the armature. If this doesn't work you will need to remove the door panel and reach inside the door where the window motor is located and tap the electric motor with a small hammer or some other suitable object. While you are tapping the motor have someone hold the window switch in a functioning position, either up or down depending on the position of your window. I have done this many many times and hopefully it will work for you and you will not have to replace the motor. Good luck
To replace the motor...
NOTE: The window doesn't have to come out for this repair.
Remove inside door panel -
Now, the regulator is held in place by 4 rivets and threaded stem & nut and 2 tabs. With the panel and foam removed, you can easily see them. It is also attached by rivets to the window in 2 places at the bottom of the window. And, it is attached to a guide bar across the large opening in the frame.
The guide bar needs to be removed first. Remove the 2 nuts (11mm) that attach it to the frame and it can be worked off the regulator assembly and out of the opening. Then, The rivets need to be drilled out, the 4 in the door frame and the 2 holding the window to the regulator assembly., the window rivets can be a pita - I used a Dremmel with a cutting wheel. Before starting the rivet removals, I used duct tape to hold the window up in place. But once the guide bar, 4 frame rivets, and stem nut are removed, the whole thing, window and all can be moved up/down in the door frame - and need to be to get at the rivets that attach the window to the regulator assembly. Move the window to a place so that you can get to the attaching rivets, you'll obviously have to loosen the tape to do so but then tape it where it works for getting at the window rivets (the pita part of this job).
Once the window rivets are removed, the regulator assembly can be removed through the large opening in the frame. New one goes in as old came out. Attach window to it - I used nuts/bolts, short enough to ensure there wouldn't be any interference. Not too tight, need the bushings to move as window goes up/down. Now - the new regulator assembly i got was slightly different in that the threaded stem was about 1/2" forward of the old one - so the hole the stem goes through had to be opened up toward the front of the van about 1/2" (turned it into a slot). With some time, a few choice words, and patience, the stem and tabs can be put in place in the frame and the new regulator assembly reattached to the frame. Again, I used nuts/bolts and couldn't replace the 2 inner rivets because of space constraints. I figured that the tabs, stem and 2 that I could replace could do the job of holding it in place.
Then, replace things as they came off. Don't for get the courtesy light and quick connects!
once you have the door cover and foam removed look for two small divets/dents located in the area of the four rivets. Once you locate them drill them out with at least a 1/2" drill bit. Right behind the new holes are the two nuts holding the regulator in place. remove the two nuts and remove the regulator then reverse the procedure to put the new regulator in place.
Removing the door panel is the easy part. A redesign of the regulator means that a new motor will not fit on the old original 2001 regulator. Not only are the mounting holes different but so is the electrical connector. You could perhaps find an old motor at the junk yard but it will most likely fail just like the original design. There are six rivets. Two hold the window to the regulator and four hold the regulator to the door. The new regulator requires you enlarge one of the mounting holes. The difficult part for me was the window being riveted to the regulator. I did not want to drill out the rivets on the window and did not have a rivet gun that could handle a 1/4" rivet. Most homeowner rivet guns are for 3/16" and smaller rivets. The door rivets can be replaced with short 1/4" bolts. After many hours and hassles with wrong parts I opted to take the vehicle to an auto glass business and gave them a new regulator/motor assembly ($87 from Ford). Depending on how nice the glass people are it is still cheaper than having Ford do it. If you have the correct tools and rivets plus don't mind working with the glass it can be done at home.
Hope this has been helpful please accept pay and feedback thank you bonus always appreciated
I have exactly what you just typed for me to do. I found that on another site looking up my question. It was word for word and I copied it on paper so you apparently cut and copied that same answer. You have given me something from another site. I am sorry but you did not give me anything new. I thought your reply would be original.
Thank you but this was not what I was looking for.
On that website, you had mentioned a short cut instead of popping the rivets. What is that all about? Click here to go to the website