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Chris (aka- Moose)
Chris (aka- Moose), Technician
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 35141
Experience:  16 years experience
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2004 Ford F150: s electrical system warning light came..minutes later

Resolved Question:

i have a 2004 Ford F150 that has a dead electrical system (no lights, buzzers, etc) but the battery is good (it has a full charge). The truck's electrical system warning light came on and about 5 minutes later the truck stopped working. What could be wrong?
Submitted: 5 years ago.
Category: Ford
Expert:  Chris (aka- Moose) replied 5 years ago.

Hello Customer

Thanks for coming to Just Answer to ask a question.

 

So nothing at all will work electronically including the starter and headlights?

Do you have a DC volt meter?

Customer: replied 5 years ago.

nothing works at all. no lights, no dash lights, no electrical locks, I can't even shift it out park with the ignition key on.

 

I do have a volt meter and the battery is carrying a good charge.

Expert:  Chris (aka- Moose) replied 5 years ago.

What is the battery voltage on the terminals___________?

What is the battery voltage on the cables_________?

What voltage are you getting at the fuses ________?

 

Customer: replied 5 years ago.

I have a multimeter that doesn't have great accuracy but the voltage across the battery terminals is 10-12 volts

 

The voltage on the cables is the same (about 10-12 vlts)

 

I don't know how to test the voltage at the fuses but I took a fuse out and tested the terminals and couldn't get any voltage.

 

as a side note, I can hear a ticking sound coming from beneath the truck around mid section. It sounds like the fuel pump is stuck on. However I noticed that before the truck died the abs breaks went nuts for a few seconds so maybe the ABS compressor (if is has sucha thing) is working.

Expert:  Chris (aka- Moose) replied 5 years ago.

A good battery should show 12.6 volts. This only means it has voltage. You can have good voltage and zero amps. I honestly feel like a you have a battery issue here.

To test the fuses you just connect your red lead to one side of the fuse and your black lead to the battery ground or chassis ground. Not all fuses have power on all of the time but many should.

graphicgraphic

Customer: replied 5 years ago.

I have 12 volts at the fuse box too. I purchased the battery about a year ago and it was a top of the line battery. It holds a charge really well and the recent problem had absolutely no signs like the battery was dying. This happened suddently while I was driving.

 

All power is off but the battery has a charge. I can't even shitf out of park. My transmission was replaced 6 weeks ago. Could that have anything to do with the problem?

 

Expert:  Chris (aka- Moose) replied 5 years ago.

Sinc eyour sure the battery is good and no the source then follow the staring circuit to verify you have the powers and grounds needed at teh igntion switch and relays and starter to see whats missing as to why it will not start. The trans should not be your source for no power to anything. You are also going to need to check every single fuse to see if any are blown and verify power at the alternator concluding no fuse links are bad,

graphic

Customer: replied 5 years ago.

I have a battery charger that has a start option and I have tried jumping my battery from a friends car. Niether will work. If the battery was bad wouldn't these options work?

 

Also, mMy transmission won't shift out of park so I can't move my truck.

 

So far the help hasnt been helpful.

Expert:  Chris (aka- Moose) replied 5 years ago.

You will not be able to shift the vehicle out of park because nothing has power. You need power to get the brake shift interlock to work.

Did you follow the starting circuit I sent, did the fuse 102 have power all the time?

Customer: replied 5 years ago.

I plan to follow the circuit this weekend (I haven't had time due to work). Fuse 102 is OK and it has power.

 

I am very curious about a noise I hear when the ignition is off. I am hoping I don't have an open or short circuit.. The noise is a clicking sound like a fuel pump or something. It sounds like it is coming from under the driver's side back seat (I have a 4-door supercrew). It will only stop when I disconnect the battery. Otherwise, if the battery is connected then the ticking is constant even though the ignition is off.

 

All of the following happened within about 20 minutes of each other. I will try to describe the symptoms when I was driving.

 

1 - I left work and my car started fine. Everything was A.O.K.

2 - about 10 minutes later when waiting at a traffic light the "check system charging" warning light came on. As soon as I accelerated the warning light went off.

3 - while on the freewary the same warning light came back on for about 10 seconds and then went off again.

4 - after getting off the freeway I stopped at a traffic light and the warning light came back on. When I accelerated, it sounded like a ran over something so I lightly touched my brakes but the ABS came on (my break pedal did the ABS chatter thing). I looked in the rear veiw mirror but nothing was run over. All my system lights went out (no dashbaord or warning lights)

5 - I pulled into a gas station since it was handy and I needed some gas anyway. AFter filling my tank my truck wouldn't start.

6 - I called my son for a jiump and the car started but I had no other electricity (no windows, locks, system lights on the dash, no radio.

7 - I drove home since it was only 3 minutes away. The engine died just before I got home and I haven't had it running since.

8 - I hooked up my battery charger and still nothing. I havne't checked ALL the fuses but the ones I checked were OK.

9 - I am at a loss on what it could be other than a short circuit which I realize I would have to trace back from the source. Is there a more likely location for a possible short than others? About 4 weeks ago I had my transimission rebuilt by the Ford Dealer. Could that have had anything to do with this problem. I think not but if there is a short somewhere maybe they scarred or damaged the wiring harness. does it go by the transmission.

10 - also, what could be causing the clicking sound? Is it the fuel pump or some ABS pump. The fact that my ABS went screwy on my when this happened makes me suspicious.

 

If you can give me more than just "retrace the electirical circuit" I would be thrilled to accept your recommendation and even throw in a bounus. However, todate you haven't given me anything more than what I already have considered which is why I am giving you a blow by blow account of what happened and when it happened. (I am not completely ignorant when it comes to cars and I try to do my own work - though these newer cars make that harder)

Expert:  Chris (aka- Moose) replied 5 years ago.

The noise is most likely low power to the vehicle security module mounted on the back of the cab behind the seat back.

I can only help as best I can with the replies I am getting. I asked for the battery voltage and I got.10-12 volts. Well both of these mean the battery is dead since a fully charged battery has 12.6 volts. 10 volts would mean it has zero amps. It would sure help to rule out the battery by installing a new one or one from another vehicle to rule it out. As for the chargeing system light this was the alternaotr failing which then caused the battery to die.

graphic

Chris (aka- Moose), Technician
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 35141
Experience: 16 years experience
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