1996 ford contour fuel injectors wont fire, pass ohms test, Pcm, cam sensor replaced and no trouble codes in computer. what else could be the problem?
Ronnie, when you say that you have no codes in the computer, do you get a code p1000 a system pass, or do you just get no response from the PCM? Is your Contour a 4 cyl or a V6? SteveSteveJ39966.1328829861
all my san tool reads is pass, no codes, even with the replacement PCM
Okay, is your Contour a V6 or a 4 cyl? Do you have ignition fire at the spark plugs? Do you have 12 volts at one terminal of a fuel injector connector with the key on?
It is a 4cyl, and i do have fire at spark plugs, but with the injector harness connected to the injector i have 12 volts on both sides of the terminal with key on (all Injectors) with
the harnness disconnected i have 12 volts on one side
Is your scan tool able to read pid data (sensor and actuator data)? If so, can you read injector pulse width (PW or IPW) while cranking? It would also be helpful to read throttle position (TP) RPM and cam position (CMP) if possible.SteveJ39966.1443214468
No the model i have cannot
Okay, I'm going to suggest that you verify the ground circuits to the PCM. You can either use a voltage drop method or use an ohmeter to test. Are you familiar with voltage drop testing? If not, we'll use ohmeter. Steve
Not familiar with voltage drop, but i've attempted to check all the system grounds to included the one at the PCM and it shows continuity on all to negative side of battery.
Okay, the main one for the PCM is on pin 25 at the PCM connector, and you should have less than 5 ohms to battery negative. You'll also want to check pins 77 and 103 to battery negative for less than 5 ohms. Do you recall whether you have checked these three circuits?
Yes they were showing 2 ohms
Okay, good. I presume that you are checking across an injector connector with a noid light or a test light, and it is not blinking when cranking the engine. If that is not correct, let me know. My apologies for asking this question as you seem to be following logic, but the camshafts are turning, correct? In other words, I just need to be sure for my reference that the timing belt is not stripped causing the cam sensor to not send a signal. If the above is correct, then disconnect the throttle position sensor and with the key on, see what voltages you have on each of the three wires (using a digital voltmeter only). I will need to be offline now, but I will check back with you tomorrow evening. In the meantime, I am going to research some further information that may be of help to you. We do sometimes get voltage readings on both sides of the injector connectors (key on engine off) due to feedback, which can be normal, but I am going to see if I can verify whether that is a normal condition on this vehicle. Steve
Yes you are correct, i pull the top timing cover off and check the camshaft and condition of belt all looks okay. thanks and i will get back with you tomorrow evening.
Let me know what you readings werer at the throttle sensor connector. When the PCM was replaced, was it calibrated for this vehicle? If it was new or remanufactured, it would have come with certain information missing which would need to be loaded into it with a scan tool capable of doing so. 2. We should not have voltage present on both sides of the injector connector, this still makes me question a ground circuit problem. However, disconnect all injector connectors and see if you still have power on both sides of the connectors with the key on. Let's make sure we do not have a short to power on the FEPS circuit. With your voltmeter check pin #13 at the diagnostic connector under the dash, key on, it should NOT have power (below is a diagram of the diagnostic link connector). Let me know, Steve
Stevej , sorry i'm replying so late but i wasn't able to go to my shop today i will continue the checks tomorrow and e-mail you when complete. Thanks
Okay, I'll look for you tomorrow. By the way, when this problem originally occurred was the car running and stalled? Or was there a repair or modification performed on the car? When the PCM was replaced, was it a reman, new or used and was it calibrated (programmed) when installed? If not, do you still have access to the original PCM? Thanks, Steve
The owner stated that while driving, the engine started missing and cut off. After inspecting i found that the crank sensor wiring connector was busted and someone had taped it to the end of the sensor and the sensor was damaged( tip grinded off ) so i replaced the sensor and repaired the connector. So that fixed the spark problem. Then it still wouldn't start, so that's when i found that the injectors wasn't firing.The PCM is a used oned with same serial number. i do have the original at shop. i also found out that someone had replaced the transmission recently, so i figured thats when the crank sensor got damaged.
Okay, let me know about the other readings when you get an opportunity. Steve
Stevej, Okay this is what i got, i disconnected the Tsp connector and checked the voltage. the Yellow wire had 5.0 volts and the white and black had 0 volts with key on. i then disconnected all of the injectors and found that i only had voltage on one side of the connectors. i also checked the pin #13 at the diagnostic connector with key on and it had .5 volts
Ronnie, my apologies, but something has come up that will require me to be out of town for the next two days. I am going to opt out so that other techs can review you concern. I'll check back in when I return to see your progress. Steve