This unit is not known for its eatc heads to have leaks in them ,,, but what they are known to have is vacuum leaks by the battery ,,, sometimes it can be multiable leaks at this spot ,,,,maybe they did not repaire all the leaks ,,,
to see if you have a a vacuum leak ,,,there is a simple test you can do ,,, start the truck up and put the a/c on ,,, blowing out the vents ,,,on high blower ,,,,,, then shut the truck off and then turn the key On ,, but do not start the truck ,,,,,,the a/c will come on and start to blow air out the vents ,,,,,, put your hand by the dash vents and if you have a leak the system will go to defrost on its own ,,,if you do not have a leak then the air will continue to come out the vents for over 1 min ........so this is a test you can use to see if you have a leak and also if you repaired it
I would suggest removing the battery ,,,then you can see what you are doing better ,,,, at the drivers side rear part of ware the battery was is a black vacuum line comeing out the fire wall ,,, check this line for any cracks or holes,,use a flash light ,,, then the black vacuum line goes to a check valve ,,,you can remove the valve and test it ,,,,put it in your mouth and it should only let air go one way as you blow and suck ,,,if it does not then the valve is bad ,,,, take a look at these two things before you replace a eatc head ,,I work at a Ford dealer and this head does not have problems with leaks ...
tell me what you find ,, we can go back and forth on this page
Thanks Chris, appreciate the quick response. The truck is actually at the Ford Dealer at the moment. Going to pick it up shortly. I gave the the go ahead to repair the vacuum leak they found but told them to hold on the EATC (they had to order it anyway). I just wanted to check all my options before going ahead with such an expensive repair. I will check what you said when I get it home this afternoon...but hopefully the dealer wouldn't miss any of what you mentioned.
Also I ran the self diagnostic on the EATC before I took it in and it returned no error codes. Would you expect an error code if the EATC was bad as they say? Thanks
If the head had a leak ,,it will not set a code ,,,,but this unit has so many problems with leaks at the battery ,,,that the tech can chase his tail thinking he repaired the problem and not see this leak by the battery ,,,, remember to use a flash light and take your time check the hoses and the vlave ,,,it only takes a small crack to cause this problem ,,,I have many times repaired this leak by the battery and still found a leak ,,,and it came down to I did not repaire all of the leaks in that hose by the battery
Thanks so much...will keep you posted!
OK Chris, here's where I stand...
1. Picked up the truck from dealer. Tech that repaired the vacuum leak was at lunch and service writer couldn't tell me anything about the repair.
2. Came home and started working through your fix. First problem was with the test you mentioned first. You said put the A/C on blowing out the vents...problem is I cannot get it to blow out the vents at all, even on startup. 100% out defrost only, no matter what I select, car running or not, etc.
3. Started double checking as you instructed. Removed the battery, battery holder. Vacuum reservoir disconnected for testing. Was able to blow into with resistance and suck out with some resistance.
4. Continued checking vacuum lines as instructed. At the firewall I found what appears to the the repair by the tech. Small (4") piece of vacuum tubing used to patch line with zip ties on each end.
5. Checked valve (assuming this was right valve--"T" shaped clear valve with blue painted ring on one end in pic above). Valve appears to be ok. As I pulled each piece off I inspected each for fit. The piece of tubing in pic below showed deterioritation but was not cracked through. When I bent the tubing after it was already off, the crack in the picture resulted. Obviously I need to replace this before going further but it did appear intact before I removed it.
So far everything is checking out ok. Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance.
the pic above ---vacuum will leak right through this porous hose ,,and it should be replaced ,, this may be your whole problem , but when this hose starts to deteriat it will send little chunks through the system , and it will get caught up in that blue and white check valve ,,,so i would suggest giving the system one more good look for leaks,, even ware the tech made his repaire ,,there may be another crack in the hose he missed ,, and then replace that hose and put a new check valve in it to ---- then if you start it up and you get air out the vents ,,,you can then do that test to make sure it holds the vacuum for at least one min ..then your good to go
tell me what happens ,,I like it when I save a customer $800 --lol
Ok...checked thoroughly again and replaced hose. Valve still appears to be flowing smoothly, one-way, as you described. While I was waiting, I decided to explore a bit on my own too...
Removed EATC. Verified strong vacuum (did not have gauge to measure, but stuck on my finger strong, for a long time) out of black. Applied suction to all other lines using a medication syringe with the plunger removed. Plugged it right into the colored vacuum lines coming out of the dash and was able to fairly easily move the air to the vents when I applied suction to the correct line (blue if I remember correctly). Does this tell me my problem truly is in the EATC as they said? Thanks!
If you have a good vacuum sorce at the eatc head ,, this does not mean that the head is bad ,,, but it is getting close to it ,,, use your jumper hose and check all the other lines to make sure they move there doors in the dash ,,,,and if they do,,,then YES ,,I would say you need a new EATC head
Ok...last one for the night...lol
I checked all the lines out of the dash. Could move air with a little vacuum pressure on all EXCEPT the #6 (yellow--full floor). Is this a bad Floor/Panel Door or Floor/Panel Door Motor also? Still could move any of them though when hooking the vacuum lines up to the EATC...
I can't believe the part that USUALLY doesn't go bad is appearing to be bad! :) Shouldn't surprise me though...we have already replaced the compressor in this one too...that went right at just under 60,000 miles!
if you look at the last chart i sent you ,,,the application chart ,,, the yellow hose is used in full floor mode ,, and the blue hose would need vacuum too for you to notice a change in air flow ,,,, so this is probly why you did not notice any difference ,,,
but yes it looks like they ware right ,,,bad eatc head ,,,but I have never cracked one open in the 21 years I have been working for Ford to see whats in there ,,,, but what do you have to loose ,,,there is a little Mac Giver in everyone I guess ,, so give it a try and see what you find
i do not know if I was was much help to you but ,,,good luck ,,,and hope you come back again and use us ,, i wish this turned out better and that hose was the problem ,