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chris, Ford Mechanic
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Cruise control turns off intermittently (rarely turns on at

Resolved Question:

Cruise control turns off intermittently (rarely turns on at all) on a 2005 Ford Escape 3.0. Just replaced the switch located on the brake pedal (I understand that was the deactivator switch). It is still having the same problem. Does this model have a switch in the master cylinder or is that the only one? Could the cruise on/off switch be causing this problem? Again, I can get it to work sometimes, but it just turns itself off and won't come back on.
Submitted: 5 years ago.
Category: Ford
Expert:  chris replied 5 years ago.

hi there

 

There are two switches mounted on the brake pedal ,, one is the stop lamp switch and the other is the deactivation switch ,,, they both look the same ,,, but you should check both

 

the stop lamp switch is the one with the LIGHT GREEN wire and the LIGHT GREEN / RED wire -----make sure that this switch is not to sensitive ,,,like it the slightest vibration turn on the stop lamps,,,if it is this will cause the cruse to shut off

 

the deactivation switch has the YELLLOW / LIGHT GREEN wire and the TAN / ORANGE wire ---this switch should have power on both wires when the brake pedal is NOT depressed ,,,if only one wire has power with the brake pedal NOT depressed then the switch is bad ...also make sure that this switch is not to sensitive and you loose power on one of the wires ---you can test this at the cruse servo if you want ,,,unplug the conector to the cruse servo and use a test lamp on the RED / LIGHT GREEN wire ,,,this is the power input wire from the deactivater switch ,,you should have power there all the time until you step on the brake ----you can also test the stop lamp switch input there too,,, it works in the opposite manner ,,, you do not want power there until you step on the brake pedal ,,,this would be the LIGHT GREEN wire at the servo conector

 

 

graphic

 

 

tell me what you find ,,and we can go from there ,,,we can go back and forth on this page

 

Chris

 

 

there is also a self test you can do to the cruse system --and its kind of hard to do ,,,you have to do it the right order ,,,you may end up doing it 4 to 5 times before you get it right ,,,,but the cruse lamp will flash a code at you and from the flash you can tell whats wrong ---here is how to do it

 

 

Printable View (116 KB)
TSB
06-8-5
  • SPEED CONTROL DIAGNOSTICS - W/O SCP
Publication Date: April 6, 2006

FORD:2000-2003 Escort
2000-2004 Crown Victoria, Mustang
2000-2005 Focus, Taurus
2000-2001 Explorer
2000-2004 E-Series, Expedition, F-150, F-Super Duty
2000-2005 Excursion, Ranger
2001-2003 Explorer Sport
2001-2005 Escape, Explorer Sport Trac
2004 F-150 Heritage
LINCOLN:2000-2002 Navigator
2001-2002 Blackwood
MERCURY:2000-2002 Cougar
2000-2004 Grand Marquis
2000-2005 Sable
2003-2004 Marauder
2000-2001 Mountaineer
2005 Mariner

ISSUE:

Stand-alone speed control system diagnostic updates have been made in 2006 model year and newer Workshop Manuals (WSM). These diagnostic updates also apply to 2000-2005 model year vehicles. This TSB provides these WSM updates for 2000-2005 model year vehicles.

ACTION:

The vehicles in this article are equipped with a 10-pin speed control servo without a standard corporate protocol (SCP) communication control system. Follow the Service Procedures and Diagnostic Tips in this TSB to assist with accurate diagnosis and repair of speed control issues.

GENERAL SERVICE PROCEDURE

  1. Visually inspect the vehicle. Any after market modifications, including but not limited to those listed below, may cause speed control to not operate correctly:
    • Any wiring or lamp modifications affecting brake lamp operation
    • LED brake lamps
    • Non-factory installed trailer wiring
    • Radios (speed sensitive, auto mute)
    • Remote starters and alarms
    • Lighting and electrical accessories modifications
  2. Visually inspect the servo and accelerator controls:
    • Visually inspect speed control cable without removing and ensure smooth cable operation. Inspect cable connection to the throttle body
    • Visually inspect accelerator cable without removing and ensure smooth cable operation. Inspect cable connection to throttle body. Also check for interference with carpet, bulkhead grommet, insulation, and instrument panel wiring

SERVICE PROCEDURE

Start by running speed control servo integrated self test diagnostics. The servo has integrated self test diagnostics which is a key tool in quickly and accurately diagnosing speed control system faults. Self test diagnostics are also the basis for starting speed control trouble shooting.

WARNING:THIS TEST IS A KEY ON ENGINE OFF (KOEO) TEST THAT IS CONDUCTED ONLY WHILE PARKED WITH THE PARKING BRAKE FULLY ENGAGED. FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS MAY RESULT IN PERSONAL INJURY.

NOTE:THE SELF-TEST IS COMPRISED OF TWO PARTS. THE FIRST PART IS A STATIC CHECK OF THE SPEED CONTROL ELECTRONICS MODULE AND SYSTEM. THE SECOND PART IS A DYNAMIC PULL-TEST TO CHECK THE ACTUATOR MOTOR AND GEAR MECHANISM.

NOTE:THE MODULE TIMES OUT IF EACH BUTTON IS NOT PRESSED WITHIN 1 SECOND OF THE PREVIOUS BUTTON. IF A MODULE TIME OUT OCCURS (SPEED CONTROL LAMP STOPS FLASHING PART WAY THROUGH THE TEST), THE PROCEDURE MUST BE RE-INITIATED.

NOTE:ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A MANUAL TRANSMISSION, THE CLUTCH PEDAL SHOULD NOT BE DEPRESSED EXCEPT FOR ESCAPE/MARINER, WHICH SHOULD BE DEPRESSED, IN ORDER TO CORRECTLY PERFORM THE SELF-TEST. ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, THE TRANSMISSION SELECTOR LEVER NEEDS TO BE IN THE "P" POSITION FOR THE SELF TEST EXCEPT FOR THE ESCAPE/MARINER WHICH SHOULD BE IN "N".

NOTE:REVIEW THE FOLLOWING STEPS BEFORE CARRYING OUT THE SELF-TEST DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE.

  1. Self Test Diagnostic Procedure - Static Test
    1. Connect the diagnostic scan tool (DST) to a power source that is not interrupted when the ignition switch changes positions. With the ignition switch in the RUN position, set the DST to monitor the powertrain control module (PCM) throttle position PID while the speed control actuator carries out the self-test.
    2. Enter self-test diagnostics by firmly pressing and holding the speed control OFF switch while quickly cycling the ignition switch from RUN-to-OFF-to-RUN, making sure the engine does not start and is not running.
    3. The speed control indicator lamp on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that the speed control module has entered the self test diagnostic mode. Release the OFF switch. If 5 flashes are displayed at this point, a speed control subsystem concern exists. Refer to the Symptom Chart in the vehicle WSM.
    4. Then firmly press and release the remaining switches WITHIN 1 SECOND of each other in the sequence below. The speed control indicator lamp flashes once after each of the buttons is successfully pressed.


      Figure 1 - Article 06-8-5

      NOTE:MONITOR THE PCM THROTTLE POSITION PID AFTER THE LAST BUTTON IS PRESSED.

      NOTE:THERE WILL BE A SLIGHT DELAY FROM WHEN THE LAST BUTTON IS PRESSED AND THE CLUSTER LAMP FLASHES DIAGNOSTIC CODES.

      NOTE:IF THE SELF-TEST WILL NOT START OR CANNOT BE COMPLETED AFTER MULTIPLE ATTEMPTS, GO TO THE VEHICLE WSM SYMPTOM CHART.

       

    5. Follow the list below for diagnostic flash codes, then go to the WSM Symptom Chart.


      Figure 2 - Article 06-8-5

  2. Self Test Diagnostic Procedure - Dynamic Test

    NOTE:THE DYNAMIC TEST OCCURS AUTOMATICALLY AFTER THE STATIC TEST PASSES. IF THE STATIC TEST FAILS RESULTING IN FLASH CODES, THERE WILL BE NO DYNAMIC PULL TEST.

    1. Within .25 seconds after the static test has completed, the speed control actuator carries out a dynamic pull test. The actuator automatically pulls the speed control cable .04 to .39" (1 to 10 mm) to move the throttle from the idle position and then releases the speed control cable returning the throttle to the idle position.

      NOTE:THE 2001-2005 ESCAPE/MARINER HOLDS THE PEAK THROTTLE PULL FOR 3 SECONDS PRIOR TO RELEASING.

       

    2. If the throttle position PID voltage value does not change during the dynamic throttle pull, go to the WSM Symptom Chart Section for Dynamic Pull Test failure.

SPEED CONTROL DIAGNOSTIC TIPS

Servo Pin-Out Test Tips

NOTE:MEASURING THE RESISTANCE OF A SERVO WILL INDICATE THAT A SERVO IS BAD IF READINGS ARE OUTSIDE THE RANGES SPECIFIED BELOW. HOWEVER, A SERVO CAN HAVE RESISTANCE READINGS WITHIN THE SPECIFIED RANGES AND STILL BE FAULTY.

The following readings are the expected values for a good servo.

Resistance between Pins 6 and 10 should measure less than 5 ohms. This is the ground circuit through the module. Resistance between Pins 7 and 10 will vary with polarity, the type of meter, and source voltage of the meter. Also measurements between Pins 7 and 10 can be any of the following: an open circuit, increasing reading (as a capacitor charging), or changing value (re-apply leads and different value indicated), or a stable reading of 10,000 ohms or greater are all valid results as this is a solid state circuit.

DST Testing Tips (TPS PID)

  1. Pinpoint Test: The Speed Control Does Not Disengage When The Brakes Are Applied

    With the vehicle speed above 30 MPH (48 Km/h) engage the speed control. Then check to see if the TPS PID returns to base voltage when the brakes are applied. If it does return to base voltage, then the speed control system is working. Need to advise customer that tapping the brakes deactivates speed control and that the brakes must be applied to make the vehicle slow down. On the Escape/Mariner the brake pedal should be depressed at least 13/32" (10 mm) in order to deactivate speed control.

    NOTE:CHECK FOR CALIBRATION SERVICE MESSAGES RELATING TO DASHPOT OR IDLE SPEED CONTROL UPDATES.

     

  2. Pinpoint Test: The Speed Control Does Not Disengage When The Clutch Is Applied

    Check to see if the TPS PID returns to base voltage when the clutch is pressed. If it does then the speed control system is working. Need to advise customer that pressing clutch deactivates speed control and that the brakes must be applied to make the vehicle slow down.

    NOTE:CHECK FOR CALIBRATION SERVICE MESSAGES RELATING TO DASHPOT OR IDLE SPEED CHANGES. ALSO A SLIGHT ENGINE RPM FLARE MAY OCCUR ON SOME VEHICLES WHEN SPEED CONTROL IS DISENGAGED WHICH IS A NORMAL CONDITION.

     

Speed Signal Testing Tips

NOTE:A FAULTY VEHICLE SPEED SIGNAL TO THE SERVO CAN RESULT IN INTERMITTENT, IRREGULAR OR INOPERATIVE SPEED CONTROL.

NOTE:FOR VEHICLES THAT HAVE OSS OR HALL EFFECT VEHICLE SPEED SIGNALS TO THE SERVO, REFER TO WSM FOR DIAGNOSTICS.

To verify that the speed control signal sent to the servo is valid, the following inspection may be done for ABS and PCM generated speed signals:

  1. Disconnect speed control module (C122).
  2. Connect DVOM set to Hz to C122 Pin 3 harness side and C122 Pin 10 (ground) harness side.
  3. Start the vehicle; place the transmission in DRIVE, test drive vehicle between 25-30 MPH (40-48 Km/h).
  4. Measure the frequency between the speed control actuator C122 Pin 3 harness side and C122 Pin 10 (ground) harness side. Divide frequency by 2.2 to give MPH and compare to speedometer reading. Measure AC Volts and record.
  5. If the AC Voltage is greater than 4.5V and the frequency reading does match the speedometer reading then the speed signal is valid. If further diagnostics are required see WSM.

Deactivator Switch Inspection Tips

A faulty deactivator switch can result in intermittent or inoperative speed control. There are two types of deactivator switches; a brake line pressure switch, which is integrated into the brake master cylinder, and a pedal travel switch, which is connected to the brake pedal arm.

Proper switch function should be confirmed. Inoperative switches of both types should be inspected for connector corrosion or pin push-out. Pedal travel switches should also be inspected for proper mechanical adjustment relative to brake pedal travel.

ADDITIONAL REFERENCE INFORMATION

Speed Control Servo Operation and Function

NOTE:ALL FUNCTIONALITY LISTED BELOW IS PERFORMED WITH CONNECTORS CONNECTED AND KEY IN RUN POSITION UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED.

PIN 1 - Indicator. (if used) Speed control servo grounds this circuit to turn the speed control lamp in cluster on during operation. This will not affect operation of system.

PIN 2 - Clutch/TRS Input. (Escape/Mariner only) Signal comes from clutch switch (MT) or TRS (AT). On the harness side the signal can be measured by connecting a DVOM, set to ohms, between Pins 2 and B-. With clutch depressed (MT) or in N (AT) you should read 0 ohms, which disables speed control. With clutch released (MT) or in D (AT) signal should read greater than 10,000 ohms, which enables speed control operation.

PIN 3 - VSS Input. (Note: Performed with engine running and vehicle driven.) Signal comes from PCM, ABS, OSS, hall effect sensor depending on application. Except for hall effect sensor, the signal can be measured by removing Connector C122 and measuring the frequency between Pins 3 and 10 with a DVOM set to AC Hz. The signal should measure 2.2 Hz/MPH. The vehicle must be traveling 30 MPH (48 Km/h) before the system will set, therefore a minimum of 66 Hz must be observed. Take note that on vehicles equipped with SVC (speed sensitive volume control), an internal problem within the radio can bring signal down to 0 Hz even though it reads correctly in PCM PIDs. If signal is missing disconnect radio and retest. Note, for vehicles with a hall effect input to the speed control servo, see WSM for speed signal verification.

PIN 4 - Brake Switch Input (BOO/BPP).

NOTE:ENSURE THAT BRAKE LAMPS ARE FUNCTIONING CORRECTLY.

Vehicles with automatic transmission and all Escape and Mariner vehicles (auto and manual): With a DVOM set to ohms, measure resistance between Pins 4 and B- with brake pedal not depressed, you should get less than 5 ohms. Then measure voltage with brake pedal depressed, you should get 12 V. Operation: The servo sends out a reference voltage on Pin 4 (4-7V) which is grounded through the brake lamps or switched directly to ground.

Vehicles with manual transmissions (except Escape and Mariner vehicles, see above): With a DVOM set to ohms, measure resistance between Pin 4 and B- with brake pedal not depressed and clutch pedal not depressed, you should get less than 5 ohms. Next, depress clutch pedal only, measuring resistance, you should get an open circuit / infinite resistance. Then measure voltage with brake pedal depressed, clutch pedal not depressed and you should get 12 V. Repeat with both pedals depressed and you should get 0 volts. Operation: The servo sends out a reference voltage on Pin 4 (4-7V) which is grounded through the brake lamps or switched directly to ground when the clutch pedal is not depressed.

PIN 5 - Control Switch Input. (Note: Performed with key in OFF position.) Remove Connector C122, using a DVOM set to resistance, measure the resistance between Pins 5 and 6. See table of resistance readings below for each switch when it is depressed.


Figure 3 - Article 06-8-5

PIN 6 - Control Switch Return. This is the return side of the switches, which are grounded internally to the servo to Pin 10. If test for Pin 5 checks good then Pin 6 is functioning normally.

PIN 7 - Power. Remove Connector C122, Using a DVOM set to DC volts, measure the voltage between Pin 7 and ground. You should read greater than 10 volts with the key in the run position. Record the voltage from Pin 7 to ground, then re-measure with a test lamp (1156) from Pin 7 to ground, to ensure current carrying capability. The difference between the two measurements should be less than 0.3 VDC. If voltage drop test fails then check wiring.

PIN 8 - Not used.

PIN 9 - Brake Deactivator Switch (BPS). This is a redundant shutoff switch. Without depressing the brake pedal, measure voltage on Pin 9, and re-measure with a test lamp (1156) from Pin 9 to ground, to ensure current carrying capability. The difference between the two measurements should be less than 0.3 VDC. The system requires enough current at this pin to engage properly. If voltage drop test fails, check for corroded wiring or deactivation switch. You should measure 0 volts at Pin 6 when the brake pedal is depressed firmly.

An alternate to the voltage drop test would be to disconnect the switch connector and measure the switch resistance. It should be less than 5 ohms. If the switch is suspected, a bypass test may also be done: On the harness side of the BPS connector, connect a jumper between the two deactivation switch pins and drive vehicle above 30 MPH (48 Km/h). If speed control engages then the brake deactivation switch was faulty, otherwise wiring is at fault.

PIN 10 - Ground. Using a DVOM set to DC volts, measure the voltage between B+ and Pin 10. You should read greater than 10 volts. Record the voltage between B+ and Pin 10 , then re-measure with a test lamp (1156) from B+ to Pin 10. The difference between the two measurements should be less than 0.3 VDC. If voltage drop test fails then check wiring. This verifies circuit can carry proper load as well as continuity to ground.

WARRANTY STATUS:

Information Only


 

NOTE: The information in Technical Service Bulletins is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge, tools, and equipment to do the job properly and safely. It informs these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or provides information that could assist in proper vehicle service. The procedures should not be performed by "do-it-yourselfers". Do not assume that a condition described affects your car or truck. Contact a Ford, Lincoln, or Mercury dealership to determine whether the Bulletin applies to your vehicle. Warranty Policy and Extended Service Plan documentation determine Warranty and/or Extended Service Plan coverage unless stated otherwise in the TSB article. The information in this Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) was current at the time of printing. Ford Motor Company reserves the right to supercede this information with updates. The most recent information is available through Ford Motor Company's on-line technical resources.

Copyright © 2006 Ford Motor Company

 

 

chris, Ford Mechanic
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 3141
Experience: ASE Master -Ford senior master-20 years experience
chris and 5 other Ford Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Thanks, XXXXX XXXXX a day or so to get back with you.
Expert:  chris replied 5 years ago.

No problem ,, take your time

 

Chris

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
you are right about the last part being complicated. I don't have a dsm tool. After testing them with a multimeter, both the original and new deactivation switches are working properly, and also seemed to be working perfectly during on the road use (the times when the cruise was actually working). So, what else could be causing this. Here's what I know: the deactivation switch is working, the set accelerations switch is working. What else could be causing an intermittent cruise control problem? Could it be the on switch on the steering wheel or is that unlikely?
Expert:  chris replied 5 years ago.

It could be a cruse switch that is going bad ----but when you do the self test you should notice this ,,,you dont have to have a dsm tool hooked up to the truck to do the test ,, as you are going through the self test every time you push a different button the cruse lamp should light up ,,, and if there was a problem ,,, the light will flash giving you a code ---

 

sometimes if your driving down the road and you go to activate the cruse and it does not come on ,,,then you really press hard on the cruse switches and then the cruse does come on ,,,then this is a sign of the cruse switches going bad

 

the two most common things for a cruse system not working sometimes,,, is the deactivation switch and the cruse switches ---other then that I have not seen any other problems

 

Chris

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Ok, good news I guess. I tried the self test a few times and finally figured out the button sequence. All of them blinked once except the SET ACC button, it blinks 3 times. Do you know what this code means?
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
I did some research and 3 blinks means deactivation switch or circuitry. I took off the deactivation switch and checked where the switch changed from closed to open. The brake pedal if definitely pushing down the switch's pushrod far enough so something in the circuitry must be off, do you have any suggestions for what to look at or where to start for a circuitry diagnosis? Note: this is a like new vehicle and all the wires I've seen are like new as well as everything else on the vehicle.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
I just put a paperclip between the two female terminals for the brake deactivation switch and took a test drive, it still didn't work and the self test still yielded 3 blinks on the set acc button. If you think you can help me further please do, I am going to accept your first question.

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