Take a look at the wiring picture above --- follow along with me --- when you turn the ignition switch to the crank position, power is sent to fuse 21. Then if the auto trans is in neutral or park, power is allowed to flow past the neutral safety switch mounted on the transmission. Then power goes to the starter relay mounted on the right side of the engine compartment on the fire wall---the starter relay is bolted to the fire wall and uses this as a ground so when power is sent to it, it will energize and click the relay on. This allows power from the battery to be sent to the starter and the engine cranks over ---
So the best place to start on this is the starter relay --- if we start here its a good place to tell which half of the circuit has the problem. Open the hood and on the right side of the engine compartment, on the fire wall is the start relay. There may be a big black cover over it. Remove it
The relay has three posts on it --two big and one small. The small one is the one we have to test with a test lamp or a volt meter. It should be a TAN / RED wire ----have someone hold the key in the crank position and remove this wire off the starter relay and test it with a volt meter or test lamp. You should have power there.
If you do have power there, then everything from there back to the ignition switch is ok and you may have a bad starter relay or starter.
If you do not have power there, then we have to test the circuit going back to the ignition switch.
If you do not have a volt meter or a test lamp to check this out, then you can get a cheap test lamp at Walmart for $5 or you can do a simple test with a screw driver and jump the starter relay with it. One of the big posts on the relay has power all the time. Use the screw driver to jump the small post to one of the big posts, try both big posts. If the engine cranks over when you do this, then we know that the starter is ok.
Tell me what you find and we will go from there. We can go back and forth on this page.