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Fordanswerman
Fordanswerman, Ford Motor Company Certified Tech
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 3203
Experience:  Ford Engine Master/Transmission Master/Chassis Master=Ford Senior Master also Diesel 7.3/6.0
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how i do tune up in ford ranger 1999

Customer Question

how i do tune up in ford ranger 1999
Submitted: 5 years ago.
Category: Ford
Expert:  Fordanswerman replied 5 years ago.

Thanks for your question.

 

Normal tuneup requires replacing spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter, pcv valve, air filter, fuel filter, oil and filter change, if due.

 

That is the basics. I would stick with Ford/Motorcraft parts also. No Champion plugs.

 

Hope that helped.

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
how do i take the spark plugs by the intake
Expert:  Fordanswerman replied 5 years ago.

I usually use a long extension and a universal/ball wobbler socket 5/8"

 

Thanks

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
can you send mi a picture how
Expert:  Fordanswerman replied 5 years ago.
Inspection

Check spark plug gap before installation. The ground electrode (the L-shaped one connected to the body of the plug) must be parallel to the center electrode and the specified size wire gauge (please refer to the Tune-Up Specifications chart for details) must pass between the electrodes with a slight drag.

NOTE NEVER adjust the gap on a used platinum type spark plug.

Always check the gap on new plugs as they are not always set correctly at the factory. Do not use a flat feeler gauge when measuring the gap on a used plug, because the reading may be inaccurate. A round-wire type gapping tool is the best way to check the gap. The correct gauge should pass through the electrode gap with a slight drag. If you're in doubt, try one size smaller and one larger. The smaller gauge should go through easily, while the larger one shouldn't go through at all. Wire gapping tools usually have a bending tool attached. Use that to adjust the side electrode until the proper distance is obtained. Absolutely never attempt to bend the center electrode. Also, be careful not to bend the side electrode too far or too often as it may weaken and break off within the engine, requiring removal of the cylinder head to retrieve it.

Click image to see an enlarged view Inspect the spark plug to determine engine running conditions Inspect the spark plug to determine engine running conditions Click image to see an enlarged view A variety of tools and gauges are needed for spark plug service A variety of tools and gauges are needed for spark plug service Click image to see an enlarged view Checking the spark plug gap with a feeler gauge Checking the spark plug gap with a feeler gauge Click image to see an enlarged view Adjusting the spark plug gap Adjusting the spark plug gap Click image to see an enlarged view If the standard plug is in good condition, the electrode may be filed flat-WARNING: do not file platinum plugs If the standard plug is in good condition, the electrode may be filed flat-WARNING: do not file platinum plugs

 

Inspection & Gapping

Check the plugs for deposits and wear.

Check spark plug gap before installation. The ground electrode (the L-shaped one connected to the body of the plug) must be parallel to the center electrode and the specified size wire gauge (please refer to the Tune-Up Specifications chart for details) must pass between the electrodes with a slight drag.

NOTE NEVER adjust the gap on a used platinum type spark plug.

Always check the gap on new plugs as they are not always set correctly at the factory. Do not use a flat feeler gauge when measuring the gap on a used plug, because the reading may be inaccurate. A round-wire type gapping tool is the best way to check the gap. The correct gauge should pass through the electrode gap with a slight drag. If you're in doubt, try one size smaller and one larger. The smaller gauge should go through easily, while the larger one shouldn't go through at all. Wire gapping tools usually have a bending tool attached. Use that to adjust the side electrode until the proper distance is obtained. Absolutely never attempt to bend the center electrode. Also, be careful not to bend the side electrode too far or too often as it may weaken and break off within the engine, requiring removal of the cylinder head to retrieve it.

Click image to see an enlarged viewChecking the spark plug gap with a feeler gauge Checking the spark plug gap with a feeler gauge Click image to see an enlarged viewAdjusting the spark plug gap Adjusting the spark plug gap Click image to see an enlarged viewInspect the spark plug to determine engine running conditions Inspect the spark plug to determine engine running conditions

 

Check spark plug gap before installation. The ground electrode (the L-shaped one connected to the body of the plug) must be parallel to the center electrode and the specified size wire gauge (please refer to the Tune-Up Specifications chart for details) must pass between the electrodes with a slight drag.

NOTE NEVER adjust the gap on a used platinum type spark plug.

Always check the gap on new plugs as they are not always set correctly at the factory. Do not use a flat feeler gauge when measuring the gap on a used plug, because the reading may be inaccurate. A round-wire type gapping tool is the best way to check the gap. The correct gauge should pass through the electrode gap with a slight drag. If you're in doubt, try one size smaller and one larger. The smaller gauge should go through easily, while the larger one shouldn't go through at all. Wire gapping tools usually have a bending tool attached. Use that to adjust the side electrode until the proper distance is obtained. Absolutely never attempt to bend the center electrode. Also, be careful not to bend the side electrode too far or too often as it may weaken and break off within the engine, requiring removal of the cylinder head to retrieve it.

Click image to see an enlarged view "a1p40"" Inspect the spark plug to determine engine running conditions "a1p40"" Inspect the spark plug to determine engine running conditions Click image to see an enlarged view "S212"" A variety of tools and gauges are needed for spark plug service "S212"" A variety of tools and gauges are needed for spark plug service Click image to see an enlarged view "S903"" Checking the spark plug gap with a feeler gauge "S903"" Checking the spark plug gap with a feeler gauge Click image to see an enlarged view "S904"" Adjusting the spark plug gap "S904"" Adjusting the spark plug gap Click image to see an enlarged view "S141"" If the standard plug is in good condition, the electrode may be filed flat-WARNING: do not file platinum plugs "S141"" If the standard plug is in good condition, the electrode may be filed flat-WARNING: do not file platinum plugs

 

Removal & Installation
Click image to see an enlarged viewAlways twist and pull on the spark plug boot, never on the wireAlways twist and pull on the spark plug boot, never on the wire NOTE Ford recommends replacing standard spark plugs every 100,000 miles.

When you're removing spark plugs, work on one at a time. Don't start by removing the plug wires all at once, because, unless you number them, they may become mixed up. Take a minute before you begin and number the wires with tape. Also, an anti-seize compound should be used before installing the plugs into the cylinder head.

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable, and if the vehicle has been run recently, allow the engine to thoroughly cool.
  2. Carefully twist the spark plug wire boot to loosen it, then pull upward and remove the boot from the plug. Be sure to pull on the boot and not on the wire, otherwise the connector located inside the boot may become separated. Click image to see an enlarged viewRemove the spark plug wire from the plug by twisting the boot and pulling outwards. Never pull on the wireRemove the spark plug wire from the plug by twisting the boot and pulling outwards. Never pull on the wire
  3. Using compressed air, blow any water or debris from the spark plug well to assure that no harmful contaminants are allowed to enter the combustion chamber when the spark plug is removed. NOTE Remove the spark plugs when the engine is cold, if possible, to prevent damage to the threads. If removal of the plugs is difficult, apply penetrating oil or spray to the area around the base of the plug, and allow it a few minutes to work.
  4. Using a spark plug socket that is equipped with a rubber insert to properly hold the plug, turn the spark plug counterclockwise to loosen and remove the spark plug from the bore. WARNING Be sure not to use a flexible extension on the socket. Use of a flexible extension may allow a shear force to be applied to the plug. A shear force could break the plug off in the cylinder head, leading to costly and frustrating repairs. Click image to see an enlarged viewUsing the proper size spark plug socket, loosen the plug by rotating it counterclockwiseUsing the proper size spark plug socket, loosen the plug by rotating it counterclockwise Click image to see an enlarged viewOnce the plug is loose, you should be able to remove it by hand. Compare the plug against the examples givenOnce the plug is loose, you should be able to remove it by hand. Compare the plug against the examples given

To install:

  1. Inspect the spark plug boot for tears or damage. If a damaged boot is found, the spark plug wire must be replaced. NOTE Coat the spark plug threads with an anti-seize compound before installing it into the cylinder head.
  2. Carefully thread the plug into the bore by hand. If resistance is felt before the plug is almost completely threaded, back the plug out and begin threading again. In small, hard to reach areas, an old spark plug wire and boot could be used as a threading tool. The boot will hold the plug while you twist the end of the wire and the wire is supple enough to twist before it would allow the plug to cross-thread. WARNING Do not use the spark plug socket to thread the plugs. Always carefully thread the plug by hand or using an old plug wire to prevent the possibility of cross-threading and damaging the cylinder head bore.
  3. Carefully tighten the spark plug.
    1. 2000-01, 4.0L and 5.0L engines tighten to 15 ft. lbs (20 Nm)
    2. 2003-05 DOHC 4.6L engines tighten to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
    3. 2002-04 SOHC 4.0L engine tighten to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
    4. 2002-04 SOHC 4.6L engine tighten to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm)
    5. 2005 SOHC 4.0L and 4.6L engines tighten to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm)
  4. Apply a small amount of silicone dielectric compound to the end of the spark plug lead or inside the spark plug boot to prevent sticking, then install the boot to the spark plug and push until it clicks into place. The click may be felt or heard, then gently pull back on the boot to assure proper contact.

A set of spark plugs usually requires replacement after about 20,000-30,000 miles (32,000-48,000 km), depending on your style of driving. In normal operation plug gap increases about 0.001 in. (0.025mm) for every 2500 miles (4000 km). As the gap increases, the plug's voltage requirement also increases. It requires a greater voltage to jump the wider gap and about two to three times as much voltage to fire the plug at high speeds than at idle. The improved air/fuel ratio control of modern fuel injection, combined with the higher voltage output of modern ignition systems, will often allow an engine to run significantly longer on a set of standard spark plugs, but keep in mind that efficiency will drop as the gap widens (along with fuel economy and power).

When you're removing spark plugs, work on one at a time. Don't start by removing the plug wires all at once, because, unless you number them, they may become mixed up. Take a minute before you begin and number the wires with tape.

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. If the vehicle has been run recently, allow the engine to thoroughly cool.
  3. Remove the spark plug cover(s), if equipped.
  4. Carefully twist the spark plug wire boot to loosen it, then pull upward and remove the boot from the plug. Be sure to pull on the boot and not on the wire, otherwise the connector located inside the boot may become separated.
  5. Using compressed air, blow any water or debris from the spark plug well to assure that no harmful contaminants are allowed to enter the combustion chamber when the spark plug is removed. If compressed air is not available, use a vacuum to clean the area. NOTE Remove the spark plugs when the engine is cold, if possible, to prevent damage to the threads. If removal of the plugs is difficult, apply a few drops of penetrating oil or silicone spray to the area around the base of the plug, and allow it a few minutes to work.
  6. Using a spark plug socket that is equipped with a rubber insert to properly hold the plug, turn the spark plug counterclockwise to loosen and remove the spark plug from the bore. WARNING Be sure not to use a flexible extension on the socket. Use of a flexible extension may allow a shear force to be applied to the plug. A shear force could break the plug off in the cylinder head, leading to costly and frustrating repairs.
  7. Remove each plug and inspect the plug even if you are replacing them with new ones. An inspection can reveal a great deal of information on the overall condition of an engine. Use the condition charts in this section as a guide.

To install:

  1. Inspect the spark plug boot for tears or damage. If a damaged boot is found, the spark plug wire must be replaced.
  2. Using a wire feeler gauge, check and adjust the spark plug gap. When using a gauge, the proper size should pass between the electrodes with a slight drag. The next larger size should not be able to pass while the next smaller size should pass freely.
  3. Carefully thread the plug into the bore by hand. A handy tool to use to install spark plugs are the flexible rubber installation tools that are available at most auto parts stores, in place of this tool an old plug wire boot or a piece of fuel line long enough to fit to the plug hole is a good alternative. If resistance is felt before the plug is almost completely threaded, back the plug out and begin threading again.
  4. Carefully tighten the spark plug. If the plug you are installing is equipped with a crush washer, seat the plug, then tighten about 1/4 turn to crush the washer. If you are installing a tapered seat plug, tighten the plug to specifications provided by the vehicle or plug manufacturer.
  5. Apply a small amount of silicone dielectric compound to the end of the spark plug lead or inside the spark plug boot to prevent sticking, then install the boot to the spark plug and push until it clicks into place. The click may be felt or heard, then gently pull back on the boot to assure proper contact.
  6. Install the spark plug cover(s), if removed.
  7. Connect the negative battery cable.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
i dont have anser from you how to take out toose by the intake i have 8 spark plugs on 2.5 engine
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
on my 1999 ford ranger 2.5 engine whit 8 spark plugs tose by the intake they i need too remove any thing from the intake
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
how long i have yoo whait

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