Ford Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Which side? Or both? I will be glad to help with a little more information.
Here is the workshop manual procedure. I hope this helps, if you need more information I would be glad to help. As I am sure you have found out, it is not too easy.
NOTE: The valve cover harness retaining studs positions 2 and 3 retain the fuel charging wiring.
Yes, that is the LH engine mount. There are only 6 bolts (3 on the block and 3 on the frame. The oil level tube may have to be removed to access it. You will need to support the engine somehow to do it also.
Yes, the drivers side engine mount needs to come out. If you are careful you could use a jack on the engine. I would use a piece of wood or rubber to cushion the pressure on the pan. When you remove the Drivers side mount the engine will tilt down on that side giving you clearance to remove the valve cover.
Ok, good luck with it.
It has been a while since I have done one of those. I am not sure of the best way to get to it. I can check into a little more tomorrow. I would say "however you can" is the best way.
I will check, good luck with it.
I think you could get the valve cover out with just moving it that much. The clearance does vary a little from car to car. I would sure try it, it would make it easier to not fight the bolts on the block. I did not find an easy way to get to them.
OK, what kind of problems?
Did you get the valve cover off? What repair did you perform? Was it making the noise before you took the valve cover off?
First doulble check all of your connections, make sure they are all tight and in the right place. Check the connector on the throttle body and the injector for the 102 and 201 codes. Make sure the air inlet is all sealed, all clamps tight and the air cleaner lid on tight. Then disconnect the battery and touch the negative cable to the positive post to clear the codes. Then road test again.
The coils are interchangeable between cylinders. To identify if it is a defective coil we change it with another one and see if the code follows the coil.
I am not sure what you are talking about with rubber boot and "do not remove". The coils for each cylinder should look like this:
Is there something aftermarket installed perhaps?
Is the rattle like pinging or lifters? Was this car sitting for a long time without running? For the clunk, I would suggest checking the U-joints, wheel bearings, brake caliper mounting or other loose components.
You will need to perform Key On Engine Off self test and Key On Engine Running self tests to see what codes you are getting. Also monitoring O2S1,O2S2,SFT1, SFT2, LFT1 and LFT2 too see if it is running lean or Rich and possibly isolate to one side of the engine. Did all of these issues start after removing the valve cover or is this something you have been trying to repair?
Have you retested the EEC system to see what codes you are getting? Do you have a way to monitor the sensors? It is possible that you may have dislodged a cam follower on that head. That would account for the noise and the miss.