You have a recall on your truck ,, that may repaire this ,, the recall is on the deactivater switch mounted on the brake master cylinder under the hood ,, the switch starts to leak fluid and could start a fire
its the switch next to the arrow on the pic above --- its a two wire switch -- unplug the switch and use a jumper wire to jump both wires together --then see if the cruse works ,, if it does then the deactivater switch is bad ---and drive down to the dealer and the will replace it for FREE---due to the recall out on them
give this a try and tell me what you get , we can go back and forth on this page
Wow --your fast
Ok - do you have a test lamp ,, see if the LIGHT GREEN / RED wire has power on that deactivator switch conector -it should have power all the time
Its on the left rear of the engine compartment -- you will see the brake resivor , with the cap on it --- its right next to the resivor
they call the the brake pressure switch in the pic above
I am confused now - you said you disconnected it already and jump it , wouldn't you know ware it is ?????
Hey , Scooter
I am go home now and will be back on line tonight -talk to you then
I disconnected the new fuse link and I reconnected the old cannon plug to the system to check it out and it still did not work.
Sorry I didn't know it was called the deactiviation switch. Do I have to test it tonight? Can I do it tomorrow and get back to you?
Better yet can I contact you by phone? If so I'll call you tonight.
Get back to me when you can -- i am on and off the site every day all day -- I can not give you my phone number due to Just Answer rules,----
Did you take your test lamp and see if there is power at the deactivation switch on the LIGHT GREEN / RED wire --unplug the deactivater switch and test either wire on it for power one of them should have power all the time
get back to me when you can
Yes it could be the problem --
Now you said you had the recall done --at the dealer they installed a little harness between the conector to the deactivater switch and the deactivater switch -- this harness has two fuses in it and there is also another fuse on the car that powers this up
unplug both ends of the recall harness and use your test lamp on the original harness conector that went to the switch ,, the LIGHT GREEN / RED wire should have power all the time --take your test lamp and get a good ground like the negative battery post and see if there is power on that wire ,, ,,if it does not then the truck has a burnt out fuse ---- if there is power then plug in the recall harness and check the end of it and see if one of those wires has power ---if there is not then one of the fuses on the recall harness is burnt out --- if the recall harness does have power on both sides , then plug it into the switch and now test both wires on the back of the conector , they both should have power ,, if only one does ,, then the switch is bad
if the switch is leaking it should be replaced ,, go back to the dealer and they will replace it for FREE,, it should have been replaced when the recall was done
tell me what you find
Thanks, XXXXX XXXXX to the dealer and they sold the part to me for approx. $28. I installed it myself and the cruise control is now working. Are you telling me I should not have had to pay for that switch?
I went in for the recall when it was first announced, the dearler never replaced that switch. Should I go back for a refund?
WELL- if the switch was leaking when they performed the recall- they should have replaced it --but if it was not leaking they are not to replace it --- if you go do the dealer and it was not that long ago that the recall was performed ,,,they should refund your money do to they should of replaced it back then