After the brake caliper, bracket, and rotor is removed, you get the tie rod end separated from the knuckle, then you have to get the axle loose. Next loosen, but don't remove the pinch nut for the strut.
The axle isn't a huge deal. What you do is remove the axle nut from the hub, then reinstall the nut just far enough so that the nut is flush with the axle stub edge... then smack it with a hammer. This will usually break the axle loose in its splines and allow it to slide out freely. The reason you reinstall the nut is so you don't "mushroom" the end of the axle with the hammer, which could make it impossible to reinstall the nut.
Then once you get the knuckle loose from the lower control arm, you can swing it out far enough to slide the axle out of the knuckle. At this time you can remove the strut pinch bolt and tap the knuckle down off of the strut.
As far as the press work, you'll have to call around to different parts stores. Most will want to charge you for the service, but some might do it for free, if you purchase the ball joint from them (it really helps if you're a regular customer and they recognize you as such). Each store has their own policies.. even one NAPA store might handle it completely from another, so you'll just have to check around.
It's actually possible to replace the ball joint without removing the entire knuckle, if you have the above tools... I've done so many that I can leave the strut and brakes attached, and swing the axle out of the assembly and that gives me just enough clearance to get the ball joint tools up in there... but the first time I tried this it actually took me a lot longer than if I had just removed the entire knuckle! Each time it gets a bit faster and now I can do them in much less than half the labor time... but that's only because I've done hundreds of these.
You'll need sockets/wrenches for these sizes:
30mm or 32mm socket for the axle nut (I've seen both sizes installed on the taurus).
12mm or 13mm for the caliper bolts.
15mm for the caliper bracket bolts.
17mm or 18mm for the tie rod end nut and strut pinch bolt.
Side-cutters for the cotter pins, and rotors hold down clips (if still equipped... if you have to remove these just throw them away, they are installed to hold the rotor on the hub at the factory, but aren't necessary after-the-fact)
And of course, a hammer.
As far as the ABS wire (if you have ABS) you'll need to remove it with the knuckle. Unplug the wire from behind the front bumber, and use a screwdriver to pop the plastic retainers from the top and sides of the frame, and remove the whole wire along with the knuckle assembly. Do not try to remove the sensor from the knuckle, as there's a 99% chance it will break in the process. Also make note as to how the wire is routed, so you can reinstall it the same way.
And lastly, here are the torque specs for the bolts: