Ford Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
First you need to remove the trans:
See Figures 4, 5, 6 and 7
Disconnect both battery cables, negative cable first.
Remove the battery and battery tray.
Remove the engine air cleaner outlet tube.
If necessary, unplug the Constant Control Relay Module (CCRM) electrical connection, loosen its retainers and remove the module and bracket as an assembly.
Disconnect the slave cylinder line from the slave cylinder hose and plug the hose.
Unfasten the slave cylinder line retaining clip and remove the line from the bracket.
Unplug the heated oxygen sensor electrical connection.
Unplug the back-up light electrical connection.
Unfasten the electrical connector bracket bolt and remove the bracket.
Unplug the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) electrical connection.
Remove the halfshafts.
Install Engine Support Bar D88-6000A or equivalent, and attach it to the engine lifting eyes with suitable chains or cables.
Remove the insulator nuts from the left-hand engine support bracket.
Fig. 4: Location of the left-hand engine support bracket nuts-2.0L engines
Remove the front and rear upper transaxle-to-engine bolts.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Drain the transaxle fluid and install the drain plug.
Disconnect the A/C line from the retainer located on the engine support crossmember.
Unfasten the engine support crossmember bolts and nuts, then remove the crossmember.
Unfasten the gearshift stabilizer bar-to-transaxle nut, then remove the stabilizer bar and support from the transaxle.
Fig. 5: Remove the gearshift stabilizer bar and support from the transaxle-2.0L engines
Fig. 6: Loosen the transaxle gearshift bolt, then remove the gearshift rod and clevis pin from the input shift shaft-2.0L engines
Unfasten the transaxle gearshift rod nut.
Unfasten the transaxle gearshift bolt and remove the gearshift rod and clevis pin from the input shift shaft.
Remove the starter motor.
Disconnect the lower slave cylinder tube and remove the slave cylinder.
Unfasten the lower transaxle-to-engine bolts.
Position and secure a suitable transaxle jack under the transaxle.
Remove the catalytic converter.
Unfasten the middle transaxle-to-engine bolts and remove the transaxle from the car.
Apply a thin coating of suitable grease to the spline of the input shaft.
Place the transaxle onto a suitable transaxle jack. Make sure the transaxle is secure.
Raise the transaxle into position.
Install the middle transaxle-to-engine bolts and tighten them to 23-38 ft. lbs. (38-51 Nm).
Install the lower engine-to-transaxle bolts and tighten them to 23-38 ft. lbs. (38-51 Nm).
Install the clutch slave cylinder and tighten the nuts to 12-17 ft. lbs. (16-23 Nm).
Connect the lower slave cylinder tube and tighten the fitting to 10-16 ft. lbs. (13-21 Nm).
Install the starter motor.
Place the gearshift rod and clevis into position on the input shift shaft, then install gearshift bolt and gearshift rod nut and tighten to 12-17 ft. lbs. (16-23 Nm).
Install the gearshift stabilizer bar and tighten the nut to 23-34 ft. lbs. (31-46 Nm).
Install the halfshafts and the catalytic converter.
Install the engine support crossmember. Tighten the crossmember bolts and nuts to 47-65 ft. lbs. (64-89 Nm) and the insulator nuts to 28-37 ft. lbs. (38-51 Nm).
Install the front and rear upper transaxle-to-engine bolt and tighten it to 28-38 ft. lbs. (38-51 Nm).
Fig. 7: Install the engine support crossmember and tighten the retainers to their indicated specifications-2.0L engines
Install the left-hand engine support insulator nuts and tighten them to 50-68 ft. lbs. (67-93 Nm).
Remove the engine support bar.
Install the electrical connector support bracket.
Attach all the electrical connectors.
Connect the slave cylinder line to the slave cylinder hose and install the retaining clip. Tighten the fitting to 10-16 ft. lbs. (13-21 Nm).
Bleed the clutch hydraulic system.
Add the proper type and amount of fluid to the transaxle.
If removed, install the CCRM and bracket assembly. Tighten the retainers and attach the electrical connection.
Install the engine air cleaner tube.
Install the battery tray and the battery.
Connect the battery cables, negative cable last.
Check for fluid leaks and proper clutch operation.
Road test the vehicle and check for proper transaxle operation
Then for the clutch:
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the transaxle assembly.
If the clutch assembly is to be reused, matchmark the pressure plate and the flywheel so they can be assembled in the same position.
Install flywheel holding tool T74P-7337-K or equivalent, in a transaxle mounting hole on the engine and engage the tooth of the holding tool into the flywheel ring gear.
Install clutch alignment tool T74P-7137-K or equivalent.
Loosen the pressure plate-to-flywheel retaining bolts one turn at a time, in a crisscross pattern, until the spring tension is relieved, to prevent pressure plate damage.
Clean the clutch pressure plate with a suitable commercial alcohol base solvent.
Inspect the pressure plate surface for burns, scores, flatness or ridges. Reface or replace the pressure plate.
Inspect the pressure plate diaphragm fingers for wear. Replace the pressure plate if necessary.
Using a slide caliper, measure the depth of the rivet heads. If the rivet head is within 0.012 inch (0.3mm) from the clutch surface, replace the clutch.
If the seal is leaking, it must be replaced before installing the clutch.
Fig. 4: Inspect the pressure plate diaphragm fingers for wear
Fig. 5: Use a slide caliper to measure the depth of the rivet heads. Replace the disc if not within specification
Use emery cloth to remove minor imperfections from the clutch disc lining surface.
Inspect the clutch disc for the following:
Oil or grease saturation
Worn or loose facings
Warpage or loose rivets at the hub
Loose or broken torsion dampening springs
Wear or rust on the splines
If the clutch disc shows any of these conditions, it should be replaced.
Use a dial indicator mounted on a metal base to measure the clutch disc run-out. If the run-out exceeds 0.0276 inch (0.700mm), replace the disc.
Fig. 6: Use a dial indicator mounted on a metal base to measure the clutch disc run-out. If the run-out exceeds specification, replace the disc
Inspect the clutch release for distortion, cracks, excessive release bearing surface wear or damaged tines and replace as necessary.
Clean the pressure plate and flywheel surfaces thoroughly. Position the clutch disc and pressure plate into the installed position and support them with clutch aligning tool T74P-7137-K or equivalent. If the clutch assembly is being reused, align the matchmarks that were made during the removal procedure.
Install the pressure plate-to-flywheel retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts in the correct sequence to 12-24 ft. lbs. (16-32 Nm). Remove the alignment tool.
Install the transaxle assembly.
Lower the vehicle.
Bleed the hydraulic clutch system.
Adjust the clutch pedal free-play.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Road test the vehicle and check the clutch for proper operation.
Fig. 7: Tighten the pressure plate-to-flywheel retaining bolts to specification in the sequence illustrated