Hi, I’m Chris. Welcome and thanks for asking your question!
Is the light on the dash not changing to your selection you want?
The faint whine you get in 4wd is that only when driving?
What signs or feelings are you getting that the vehicle does not want to come out of 4wd high into 2H or A4WD?
the light on the dash changes between 4H & 4L respectively with the correpsonding switch change. When switched back to 2H or A4WD the light goes out. When its in 2WD then 4H selected you can hear the engagement, when switched back to 2H there is no additional noise indicating disengagement.
the faint whine is only while moving and reminds me slightly of the gear whine when in reverse while 4WD engaged. I've had 5 other Fords with the shift on the fly and none made any noticeable noise or whine when in 4H moving forward.
The truck feels "bound" similar to turning when in 4WD with the switch in 2H after actuating the 4WD.
As mentioned it somehow disengages after some time. Of course I was trying the neutral/brake/shift along with other combinations to get it to disengage, however, left me with not knowing "what I did" as to why it decided to disengage. Then when I switched to 4H again - stuck again. All this was at very little forward speed, basically idling forward without pushing gas pedal. I did try forward / reverse to "unlock" the stuck condidtion with no avail.
Thanks for the reply Slrdfw.
So based on this comment: the light on the dash changes between 4H & 4L respectively with the corresponding switch change. When switched back to 2H or A4WD the light goes out. When its in 2WD then 4H selected you can hear the engagement, when switched back to 2H there is no additional noise indicating disengagement. Are you believing it is still in 4wd since you heard no disengagement noise. Have you checked to see if the SUV binds in turns when back in 2H to verify it is still in 4high
The truck feels "bound" similar to turning when in 4WD with the switch in 2H after actuating the 4WD. How soon are you turning after this change, have you relieved driveline wind up stress prior to turning to see if it still binds in turns when in 2H
If you start the vehicle and then shift to 4high and drive and verify it is in 4high. Now shift to 2H while still driving forward, then stop and shift to reverse and back up about 10 feet and turn the steering wheel a little in both directions then go back forward is there still binding sensation in 2H?
To answer your first question: No, I don't believe its stuck in 4WD because I didn't hear a disengagement, in all my other trucks I didn't hear disengagements (for the most part). I feels bound up if you turn the steering wheel like it was in 4WD and has an overall resistance to motion whether straight or turning. To clarify that. When the problem is there even going straight feels like resistance almost like slight brake applied. So i know it's in 4WD or all or part of the front axle is still engaged to the hubs.
To answer your second question: I drove 100+ yards straight very slow. Stopped. Put in neutral. Put back in gear. Still bound up with selector in 2H. And like I said before. I has a faint "whine" similar to what I'm used to hearing when going in reverse. Although I wasn't concerned with that as much, I was just passing along the facts at hand. Even when I don't turn it feels a bit bound up - like resistance to rolling forward.
To answer you last question. I've done that multiple times and doesn't change the fact that 4WD (or front axles) are engaged and overall truck feels resistant to motion.
When it is in 2WD everything seems fine, no whining, gas mileage doesnt seem bad, no excessive heat from floor. (i had a t-case that went bad and the truck would feel like the brakes were on all the time whether 2 or 4WD and floor would get hot. But this isn't like that.) Trouble is...when I put it in 4WD it won't readily shift out of 4WD...seems to only come out on its own at whatever time it feels.
Thanks for all the info.
Let me explain what happens with use first.
When you select A4WD the front axle is locked in and stays locked in all the time. The front driveshaft tis spinning, but the transfer case electromagnetic clutch is not locked in. You will get poor fuel mileage in this selection as well as some minor power loss due to more components turning.
In 2H the front axle is not engaged nor is the driveshaft or transfer case. The best option for fuel mileage.
In 4high you have the front axle locked in and the driveshaft and the transfer case. This should only be used in mud, snow, ice or poor traction surfaces.
What you need to do is shift from 4high to 2high then have an assistant lay beside the vehicle and you pull forward a foot to see if the front driveshaft turns. If it does then the transfer case or front axle is locked in. If the driveshaft does not turn then everything is unlocked.
If the driveshaft did turn then you need to get the vehicle on a rack and duplicate this. if the driveshaft still turns then the transfer case has an issue. If the driveshaft does not turn then turn both front wheels in the same direction. if the driveshaft turns then your front axle actuator has a concern.
Some vehicles do have a slight whine noise in 4wd use that comes from the transfer case or front axle, I would get a tech to listen to it and see if it is abnormal meaning you have a bearing failure in the front axle or transfer case that needs to be listened to from underneath.
Sometimes shifting from 4 high to 2 high then backing up and turning in both directions to help release driveline tension will assist in releasing everything.
If the front driveshaft is not turning in 2 high and you still getting a binding sensation then your rear axle limited slip clutches are faulty and grabbing to much, binding and needing replacement.
Let me know if this helps out.