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20. We will be looking for 0-about 13 volts so 20 V range will be perfect.
Most meters will have 2-4 ports near the bottom that will say COM, OHMS, V and ACV,
or something like that.
Do you see some ports where the non-probe end of the wires would go in?
Ok. Black lead into COM
Red lead into VOmA Bat
Ok. Here's a good way to practice. When the meter is set up, touch the black probe to the negative battery post and hold the red one to the battery positive post at the same time. This will measure the voltage of the battery.
You should get a reading between 12 and 13.5 volts.
Locate the highlighted fuse under the hood. Leave the black probe touching the negative battery post and move the red probe to the top of the fuse. Do not remove the fuse from the fuse panel when doing this. On the top of the fuse, there is likely some writing indicating the amperage that the fuse can handle. There will also be 2 holes in the plastic fuse housing with some metal exposed. Touch the red lead to the metal that you can see through the 2 small holes on top of the fuse. You should get very close to the same voltage reading there that you got when you measured right at the battery.
I apologize, H under the hood is a circuit breaker. If it is the same size as F, try swapping them and see if the symptoms change.
Under the hood, if you cannot reach the probe back to the battery post, and if you do not have a jumper wire available, You will have to find a good ground to use under the dash. Anything shiny and metal that is bolted to the body will do. The studs and nuts that hold the brake pedal to the body are a good place. You can just scratch the area a little with the probe and hold it firmly there.
That's fantastic news!
Try it out for a while and make sure the fuse doesn't blow again. It's possible that something is simply drawing too much current for the circuit. If everything keeps working, then it looks like you've diagnosed the issue.
Congratulations to you!
If you have another question in the future, you can just refer to our question here if you don't remember my username.
I'm off for now, but you can take a look at the code definitions above.
I'll get you some easy, free procedures to take care of the EGR code and for the others, when you get a scanner, I'd recommend clearing them and retesting after driving to see if they come back. The fuel pump circuit codes are likely just 'ghost codes' that you don't need to worry about if the engine is running well and the CID code may or may not come back.
When you have a scanner,