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6Bucs
6Bucs, Ford Technician
Category: Lincoln
Satisfied Customers: 799
Experience:  Ford, Lincoln, Mercury Senior Master Tech with 18 years dealership experience.
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Lincoln Town Car Executive: I have a 1994 Lincoln Town car

Customer Question

I have a 1994 Lincoln Town car and I have taken my Town Car to a few mechanic shops, and telling them my story on how my unlock button can turn on my headlights, which in return was interesting to them. They have had no idea at all of what it would be, then they said it was the FOB module. I replaced it and it did the same thing, so now I think it's the BCM instead, along with some time trying to figure out myself what the problem might be. Please help me out, it's a really nice and reliable car and I want to have it for many years to come.
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Lincoln
Expert:  Michelle-Mod replied 1 year ago.


Hi, I’m a moderator for this topic and I wonder whether you’re still waiting for an answer. If you are, please let me know and I will do my best to find a Professional to assist you right away. If not, feel free to let me know and I will cancel this question for you. Thank you!


Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I am not sure who the expert is, but I do not know if they have contacted me yet. But I did receive an email stating that "More information is needed" and I am again not sure what specifics I need to tell about. Thank you for your concern.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Dear Expert,

I would like to ask you where the BCM (Body Control Module) is located at on a 1994 Lincoln Town Car Executive Series. That is my only question as of right now, if you could provide me with a schematic of the whereabouts of this part then I would be very obliged. Even a detailed description would be pleasant as well, I hope that this was enough information for you. Again, thank you for your help.
Expert:  Ronnie replied 1 year ago.
Welcome to Justanswer, my name is XXXXX XXXXX X will try to assist you.

Unfortunately your 1994 dosnt have a BCM and the problem you are having is to complex to try and diagnose over the internet and thats why you have not received a good answer. I have enclosed a list of all module on your 1994 and as you can see, there is no BCM. This type of problem is going to require hands on to diagnose and repair. I wish I had better news for you.


graphic
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Is there any Mechanical or Electric difference between the Executive series and the Cartier series or are they the same? The attachment that I have recieved was about the Lincoln Town Car Cartier series so that's why I was pondering over it. Would you mind if I can explain my story about how this happened from beginning to where I am right now? I think that it would help a little if I did, that way you have an understanding from my point of view of what has happened. Again, thank you very much for you current help.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Would a possible list of diagnostics help from when the car was hooked up to the ODB 1 system? I have a few numbers that I have received from the car:

DTC-111

DTC-214

DTC-542

DTC-332

DTC-543


And this is from under-the-hood on the "drivers side" being hooked up, right above the air filter I believe. I am not sure if this might help a little, but I have no clue on what these codes mean. I can also give you more coded lists just like this if it might help out more.

Expert:  Ronnie replied 1 year ago.
Yes sure please explain, all the listed codes you have are engine management codes.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
When I had first bought the car, the power locks, fob, internal lights, and side panel key less entry would all work and I didn't have a problem with the car at all.

I went to a scrap yard just out of my town and I was lucky enough to find another trunk for the car (Due to the giant dent in the back of it when I got it) which was the same shade, and same year. The only thing that I noticed is that the replacement trunk was off from a 94 Lincoln Town Car "Signature" and not an Executive series, but at the time I didn't think that it would make a difference at all.


When I did purchase it, another gentleman helped me put it on, so we carefully took off the old trunk and disconnected the wires from the trunk. Once we had it on, I had to run back inside because I wanted to grab something off from the old trunk before they disposed of it. At the same time, he put the wires back together properly and I thanked him and we parted ways.


The first thing I noticed when there was a problem was that my Fob wouldn't work on the car nor my side panel key less entry. I thought that maybe the car was just trying to register the new trunk, but I still decided to stop in at an O'Reilly's Auto Parts store. When I got there, I explained my story and after a while, I had one of them out there helping me. When I had to unlock the passenger door, I pressed the unlock button then my headlights came on! We were both blown away about what we just saw, and hadn't the clue on what to do.


He did an engine check with the ODB 1 and asked me to start the car so that it could warm up just a little. When I attempted to start it up, it wouldn't start at all. After a half hour of wondering what it could be, we found out that the fuel fuse under the hood was blown, making it impossible to have a current flow of fuel go to the engine for the initial start and continuous running.


We later replaced it and it ran like a champ, turned over with no hesitation at all. But we still didn't know on what the electrical problem was and later decided to take it to a mechanic the following day.


I took my car to an auto shop to have it worked on, and they too were a little baffled about the headlight trick, and I explained to them that the only electronics that work are:


1- Headlights (Manually pulling the knob or having it on auto will work)

2- Radio

3- Electronical dashboard

4- Widows


And the things that don't work are:


1- Unlock button inside car (which turn on headlights when depressed)

2- Interior lights

3- side panel key less entry

4- Fob


I left the car with them for a day or two, and later I got a phone call from them telling me that they might know what the problem might be and said for me to come as quickly as I could. When I arrived, the mechanic said that "I'm 95% positive that it is going to be your 'Key less entry Fob control module' causing you all these problems. When you replace that then you should have everything else working."


Later when I did, I switched them out with a couple of new ones I got, and to my surprise, they didn't work at all.. I went back and explained it to them, and they didn't know what to do.


I did some research back home and noticed a forum about it, and one had a "point check test" I believe and another about a "Bad BCM module." So when I went back to the mechanic shop I asked them to look at the BCM; they didn't know where it was located at but it did pop up on their computer for my car to have a BCM.


But since you said that my Town Car Executive doesn't have one, then I'm back to step one on trying to figure out what it is. Sorry that this was so lengthy of a story.
Expert:  Walt-mod replied 1 year ago.
Thank you for your patience, your business is very important to us, we are waiting on the Professional with the right expertise to come online. Feel free to let us know if you would like us to continue searching for an Professional or if you would like us to close your question. Thank you for your understanding!
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Yes, please continue.
Expert:  6Bucs replied 1 year ago.
Hello, different expert here.

When you say they recommended a FOB module, and that you bought a couple and replaced them, did you replace the RKE (keyless entry module)....which is the computer located inside the vehicle, or did you just replace the keyfob remotes? I ask because this does sound like a problem with the module and replacing the remotes wouldn't affect this issue. The keyfob remotes send a radio signal to the RKE module inside the vehicle which is connected to the power locks, lights, etc.

Let me know on the above and I'll do my best to help you out.
Thanks.
James
Expert:  6Bucs replied 1 year ago.
The module for the keyless entry is located behind the glove box here...
graphic

If this is what you replaced, let me know.
If not, then please let me know if you wish to do some electrical testing with a volt/ohmmeter.

James
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Why yes, yes indeed this was the part that I replaced, but not the other part that you were referring too. I would like to know a little bit more about what kind of problem I might be having and some more specific locations if you don't mind please. Thank you for your help, please continue.
Expert:  6Bucs replied 1 year ago.
Just to be clear, You're saying that you DID replace the module behind the glove box which is in the picture above? I was a bit unsure when you said

"yes indeed this was the part that I replaced, but not the other part that you were referring too"

...so just making sure.

and do you have access to a volt/ohm meter that we can use for some testing?

Thanks again.

James
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Not that I am aware of, there should be one for rental or use at an O'Reilly's I believe. That is the only place that I can think of that might have it.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
And I see where I had my "Typo," I miss read it, so yes I did replace the module behind the glove box.
Expert:  6Bucs replied 1 year ago.
Ok. Just got the kids to bed. See if you can borrow a meter and I'll work on designing a test procedure for you.
James.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok, sounds like a plan! I am off from work tomorrow, so that makes it easy for me, so I will stop by an auto shop to see if they have that meter, if not i'll just buy one. Also, again thanks for all your help and have a great Fourth of July!
Expert:  6Bucs replied 1 year ago.
You too! Happy 4th
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok, I have gone to the store and I picked up the device that you said that I needed to continue diagnostics on the car. What is next?
Expert:  6Bucs replied 1 year ago.
Alright. So, some of this may seem repetitive or redundant to you, but let's start out with the basics.

Under the hood, please check the following highlighted fuse in the battery junction box. Then check the highlighted fuses in the instrument panel fuse box under the dash. When you check the fuses, you can remove them and visually inspect the metal strip inside to make sure it isn't blown, but I also need you to check for power at both sides of the fuse while it is plugged into the vehicle. To do this, set your meter to DC volts. There should be a setting for AC and for DC voltage. AC does us no good here. It may say DCV or something similar. If the meter has electrical leads that plug in, put the black one in the socket that says COM and the red one in the appropriate spot for DC voltage. If this is confusing, maybe you could upload a picture of the meter, if you're able. They all look a little different.

Once the meter is set up. Take the point of the black lead and hold it on the negative post of the battery. Take the other lead and touch it to the fuses while they are plugged into the fuse panel at the top of them. There are 2 small holes in the plastic where the metal is exposed. You will want to see battery voltage (around 12.5 volts) on the meter when you touch either side of the fuse. Let me know what you come up with.

graphic


graphic


When checking for power at the fuses in the instrument panel, do so with the key in the ignition and turned to the RUN position. If you find any of these fuses that have voltage at one side and not at the other, replace the fuse and retest.

What I suspect is happening on your vehicle is that there is a poor ground circuit either in the door unlock circuit or for the RKE module. I've gone over some schematics and I think the door unlock ground circuit is more likely. Let's start there if you don't identify a fuse issue above.

We need to locate ground circuits #200 and 203. These will be black wires with a metal eyelet attached to the end of them that are bolted to the body. Ground 200 is at the driver's side of the instrument panel area and 203 is in the same location on the passenger side. You'll need to pop out the kick panels, near where your foot would rest near the body in front of the door on either side to get to the grounds. Make sure the bolts are very tight and there is no sign of corrosion or other damage there. If so, remove the bolt and use a wire brush or some sandpaper to clean both the body and the eyelet on the end of the wire to create a clean surface and then bolt back together securely. In fact, it's probably a good idea to just unbolt and clean these grounds even if they look okay.

Try the system again after this and see if anything has changed yet.

Once you've gotten this far, if the system is still acting haywire, we can continue.

James.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok, with the device, do I set it to 500, 200, 20, 2, or 200m? Those are my settings on the DCV.
Expert:  6Bucs replied 1 year ago.

20. We will be looking for 0-about 13 volts so 20 V range will be perfect.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Thank you, XXXXX XXXXX the instructions that you provided, where is the locations on which the probes should be inserted into? I'm not too familiar with this at all.
Expert:  6Bucs replied 1 year ago.

Most meters will have 2-4 ports near the bottom that will say COM, OHMS, V and ACV,

or something like that.

Do you see some ports where the non-probe end of the wires would go in?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Yes, I have three holes at the bottom labeled

DC 10A

COM

VΩmA Bat
Expert:  6Bucs replied 1 year ago.

Ok. Black lead into COM

Red lead into VOmA Bat

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok, I have done that. Now, all I have to do now it to connect the probes accordingly with the instructions that you have given to me right? With that, I am unsure on how to properly measure and use this device. If it's not too much, can you explain to me on how I measure the current? And do I put one of the probes inside the actual fuse spot both under the hood and inside the car?
Expert:  6Bucs replied 1 year ago.

Ok. Here's a good way to practice. When the meter is set up, touch the black probe to the negative battery post and hold the red one to the battery positive post at the same time. This will measure the voltage of the battery.

You should get a reading between 12 and 13.5 volts.

Locate the highlighted fuse under the hood. Leave the black probe touching the negative battery post and move the red probe to the top of the fuse. Do not remove the fuse from the fuse panel when doing this. On the top of the fuse, there is likely some writing indicating the amperage that the fuse can handle. There will also be 2 holes in the plastic fuse housing with some metal exposed. Touch the red lead to the metal that you can see through the 2 small holes on top of the fuse. You should get very close to the same voltage reading there that you got when you measured right at the battery.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok, I now have an understanding of how to use it. Now with the fuse under the hood, letter "H" it is a metal fuse 30Amp and it has no holes for testing. How do I test that kind of fuse? I will check the ones in the cab.
Expert:  6Bucs replied 1 year ago.

I apologize, H under the hood is a circuit breaker. If it is the same size as F, try swapping them and see if the symptoms change.

Under the hood, if you cannot reach the probe back to the battery post, and if you do not have a jumper wire available, You will have to find a good ground to use under the dash. Anything shiny and metal that is bolted to the body will do. The studs and nuts that hold the brake pedal to the body are a good place. You can just scratch the area a little with the probe and hold it firmly there.

6Bucs, Ford Technician
Category: Lincoln
Satisfied Customers: 799
Experience: Ford, Lincoln, Mercury Senior Master Tech with 18 years dealership experience.
6Bucs and 5 other Lincoln Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok, I will do that. And I checked inside the cabs fuse box and saw that number 17 fuse was blown. I have replaced it.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Yes, it was just the fuse! Everything is working now, interior lights, side panel, unlock button, etc. thank you very much, I wish I could have met you $450.00 earlier for a $10.00 problem. You are the best! If there was a way to keep you as a favorite on this I would, there is no other way how I can say thank you for all your help.
Expert:  6Bucs replied 1 year ago.

That's fantastic news!

Try it out for a while and make sure the fuse doesn't blow again. It's possible that something is simply drawing too much current for the circuit. If everything keeps working, then it looks like you've diagnosed the issue.

Congratulations to you!

If you have another question in the future, you can just refer to our question here if you don't remember my username.

James.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I do have another question now that you mention it, is it possible for you to send me a list of all the DTC codes for the Town Car by anychance? So that later when I buy my ODB-1 I can have a better understanding of what it might be. Also, my check engine light is on and I would like some help figuring out what might be wrong and how to fix it to the best of my abilities along with your Technical help. Thank you again for everything that you've helped me out with.
Expert:  6Bucs replied 1 year ago.
Here you go...

3-Digit EEC-IV Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Definitions —Passenger Car
DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES DEFINITIONS
111 System Pass
112 Intake Air Temp (IAT) sensor circuit below minimum voltage/ 254°F indicated
113 Intake Air Temp (IAT) sensor circuit above maximum voltage/ -40°F indicated
114 Intake Air Temp (IAT) higher or lower than expected
116 Engine Coolant Temp (ECT) higher or lower than expected
117 Engine Coolant Temp (ECT) sensor circuit below minimum voltage/ 254°F indicated
118 Engine Coolant Temp (ECT) sensor circuit above maximum voltage/ -40°F indicated
121 Closed throttle voltage higher or lower than expected
121 Indicates throttle position voltage inconsistent with the MAF sensor
122 Throttle Position (TP) sensor circuit below minimum voltage
123 Throttle Position (TP) sensor circuit above maximum voltage
124 Throttle Position (TP) sensor voltage higher than expected
125 Throttle Position (TP) sensor voltage lower than expected
126 MAP/BARO sensor higher or lower than expected
128 MAP sensor vacuum hose damaged/disconnected
129 Insufficient MAP/Mass Air Flow (MAF) change during dynamic response test KOER
136 Lack of Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S-2) switch during KOER, indicates lean (Bank #2)
137 Lack of Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S-2) switch during KOER, indicates rich (Bank #2)
139 No Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S-2) switches detected (Bank #2)
141 Fuel system indicates lean
144 No Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S-1) switches detected (Bank #1)
157 Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor circuit below minimum voltage
158 Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor circuit above maximum voltage
159 Mass Air Flow (MAF) higher or lower than expected
167 Insufficient throttle position change during dynamic response test KOER
171 Fuel system at adaptive limits, Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S-1) unable to switch (Bank #1)
172 Lack of Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S-1) switches, indicates lean (Bank #1)
173 Lack of Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S-1) switches, indicates rich (Bank #1)
175 Fuel system at adaptive limits, Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S-2) unable to switch (Bank #2)
176 Lack of Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S-2) switches, indicates lean (Bank #2)
177 Lack of Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S-2) switches, indicates rich (Bank #2)
179 Fuel system at lean adaptive limit at part throttle, system rich (Bank #1)
181 Fuel system at rich adaptive limit at part throttle, system lean (Bank #1)
184 Mass Air Flow (MAF) higher than expected
185 Mass Air Flow (MAF) lower than expected
186 Injector pulsewidth higher than expected (with BARO sensor)
186 Injector pulsewidth higher or MAF lower than expected (without BARO sensor)
187 Injector pulsewidth lower than expected (with BARO sensor)
187 Injector pulsewidth lower or MAF higher than expected (without BARO sensor)
188 Fuel system at lean adaptive limit at part throttle, system rich (Bank #2)
189 Fuel system at rich adaptive limit at part throttle, system lean (Bank #2)
193 Flexible Fuel (FF) sensor circuit failure
211 Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) circuit failure
212 Loss of Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) input to PCM/SPOUT circuit grounded
213 SPOUT circuit open
214 Cylinder Identification (CID) circuit failure
215 PCM detected coil 1 primary circuit failure (EI)
216 PCM detected coil 2 primary circuit failure (EI)
217 PCM detected coil 3 primary circuit failure (EI)
218 Loss of Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) signal-left side (dual plug EI)
219 Spark timing defaulted to 10 degrees-SPOUT circuit open (EI)
221 Spark timing error (EI)
222 Loss of Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) signal-right side (dual plug EI)
223 Loss of Dual Plug Inhibit (DPI) control (dual plug EI)
224 PCM detected coil 1, 2, 3 or 4 primary circuit failure (dual plug EI)
225 Knock not sensed during dynamic response test KOER
226 Ignition Diagnostic Module (IDM) signal not received (EI)
232 PCM detected coil 1, 2, 3 or 4 primary circuit failure (EI)
238 PCM detected coil 4 primary circuit failure (EI)
241 ICM to PCM IDM pulsewidth transmission error (EI)
244 CID circuit fault present when cylinder balance test requested
311 AIR system inoperative during KOER (Bank #1 w/dual HO2S)
312 AIR misdirected during KOER
313 AIR not bypassed during KOER
314 AIR system inoperative during KOER (Bank #2 w/dual HO2S)
326 EGR (PFE/DPFE) circuit voltage lower than expected
327 EGR (EGRP/EVP/PFE/DPFE) circuit below minimum voltage
328 EGR (EVP) closed valve voltage lower than expected
332 Insufficient EGR flow detected (EGRP/EVP/PFE/DPFE)
334 EGR (EVP) closed valve voltage higher than expected
335 EGR (PFE/DPFE) sensor voltage higher or lower than expected during KOEO
336 Exhaust pressure high/EGR (PFE/DPFE) circuit voltage higher than expected
337 EGR (EGRP/EVP/PFE/DPFE) circuit above maximum voltage
338 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) lower than expected (thermostat test)
339 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) higher than expected (thermostat test)
341 Octane adjust service pin open
381 Frequent A/C clutch cycling
411 Cannot control RPM during KOER low RPM check
412 Cannot control RPM during KOER high RPM check
415 Idle Air Control (IAC) system at maximum adaptive lower limit
416 Idle Air Control (IAC) system at upper adaptive learning limit
452 Insufficient input from Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) to PCM
453 Servo leaking down (KOER IVSC test)
454 Servo leaking up (KOER IVSC test)
455 Insufficient RPM increase (KOER IVSC test)
456 Insufficient RPM decrease (KOER IVSC test)
457 Speed control command switch(s) circuit not functioning (KOEO IVSC test)
458 Speed control command switch(s) stuck/circuit grounded (KOEO IVSC test)
459 Speed control ground circuit open (KOEO IVSC test)
511 PCM Read Only Memory (ROM) test failure KOEO
512 PCM Keep Alive Memory (KAM) test failure
513 PCM internal voltage failure (KOEO)
519 Power Steering Pressure (PSP) switch circuit open KOEO
521 Power Steering Pressure (PSP) switch circuit did not change states KOER
522 Vehicle not in PARK or NEUTRAL during KOEO/PNP switch circuit open
524 Low speed fuel pump circuit open—battery to PCM
525 Indicates vehicle in gear/A/C on
527 Park/Neutral Position (PNP) switch circuit open—A/C on KOEO
528 Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) switch circuit failure
529 Data Communication Link (DCL) or PCM circuit failure
532 Cluster Control Assembly (CCA) circuit failure
533 Data Communication Link (DCL) or Electronic Instrument Cluster (EIC) circuit failure
536 Brake On/Off (BOO) circuit failure/not actuated during KOER
538 Insufficient RPM change during KOER dynamic response test
538 Invalid cylinder balance test due to throttle movement during test (SFI only)
538 Invalid cylinder balance test due to CID circuit failure
539 A/C on/Defrost on during Self-Test
542 Fuel pump secondary circuit failure
543 Fuel pump secondary circuit failure
551 Idle Air Control (IAC) circuit failure KOEO
552 Secondary Air Injection Bypass (AIRB) circuit failure KOEO
553 Secondary Air Injection Diverter (AIRD) circuit failure KOEO
554 Fuel Pressure Regulator Control (FPRC) circuit failure
556 Fuel pump relay primary circuit failure
557 Low speed fuel pump primary circuit failure
558 EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) circuit failure KOEO
559 Air Conditioning On (ACON) relay circuit failure KOEO
563 High Fan Control (HFC) circuit failure KOEO
564 Fan Control (FC) circuit failure KOEO
565 Canister Purge (CANP) circuit failure KOEO
566 3-4 shift solenoid circuit failure KOEO (A4LD)
567 Speed Control Vent (SCVNT) circuit failure (KOEO IVSC test)
568 Speed Control Vacuum (SCVAC) circuit failure (KOEO IVSC test)
569 Auxiliary Canister Purge (CANP2) circuit failure KOEO
571 EGRA solenoid circuit failure KOEO
572 EGRV solenoid circuit failure KOEO
578 A/C pressure sensor circuit shorted
579 Insufficient A/C pressure change
581 Power to Fan circuit over current
582 Fan circuit open
583 Power to Fuel pump over current
584 VCRM Power ground circuit open (VCRM Pin 1)
585 Power to A/C clutch over current
586 A/C clutch circuit open
587 Variable Control Relay Module (VCRM) communication failure
617 1-2 shift error
618 2-3 shift error
619 3-4 shift error
621 Shift Solenoid 1 (SS1) circuit failure KOEO
622 Shift Solenoid 2 (SS2) circuit failure KOEO
623 Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) circuit failure
624 Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) circuit failure
625 Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) driver open in PCM
626 Coast Clutch Solenoid (CCS) circuit failure KOEO
627 Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) solenoid circuit failure
628 Excessive converter clutch slippage
629 Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) solenoid circuit failure
631 Transmission Control Indicator Lamp (TCIL) circuit failure KOEO
632 Transmission Control Switch (TCS) circuit did not change states during KOER
633 4x4L switch closed during KOEO
634 Transmission Range (TR) voltage higher or lower than expected
636 Transmission Fluid Temp (TFT) higher or lower than expected
637 Transmission Fluid Temp (TFT) sensor circuit above maximum voltage/ -40°F (-40°C) indicated/circuit open
638 Transmission Fluid Temp (TFT) sensor circuit below minimum voltage/ 290°F (143°C) indicated/circuit shorted
639 Insufficient input from Transmission Speed Sensor (TSS)
641 Shift Solenoid 3 (SS3) circuit failure
643 Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) circuit failure
645 Incorrect gear ratio obtained for first gear
646 Incorrect gear ratio obtained for second gear
647 Incorrect gear ratio obtained for third gear
648 Incorrect gear ratio obtained for fourth gear
649 Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) higher or lower than expected
651 Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) circuit failure
652 Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) solenoid circuit failure
653 Transmission Control Switch (TCS) did not change states during KOER
654 Transmission Range (TR) sensor not indicating PARK during KOEO
656 Torque Converter Clutch continuous slip error
657 Transmission over temperature condition occurred
659 High vehicle speed in park indicated
667 Transmission Range sensor circuit voltage below minimum voltage
668 Transmission Range circuit voltage above maximum voltage
675 Transmission Range sensor circuit voltage out of range
998 Hard fault present ****FMEM MODE****

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'm off for now, but you can take a look at the code definitions above.

I'll get you some easy, free procedures to take care of the EGR code and for the others, when you get a scanner, I'd recommend clearing them and retesting after driving to see if they come back. The fuel pump circuit codes are likely just 'ghost codes' that you don't need to worry about if the engine is running well and the CID code may or may not come back.

 

James

When you have a scanner,

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  • Chris (aka- Moose)'s Avatar

    Chris (aka- Moose)

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    Chris (aka- Moose)

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    Ronnie

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