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johncrouch1962
johncrouch1962, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Lincoln
Satisfied Customers: 1676
Experience:  Ford master certified, ASE master certified, on Diesel, hybrid and gasoline vehicles
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getting power to fuel pump relay module from pcm. have power

Customer Question

not getting power to fuel pump relay module from pcm. have power from inertia switch and can put power and grd to fuel pump and it will run and build good pressure
Submitted: 2 years ago.
Category: Lincoln
Expert:  johncrouch1962 replied 2 years ago.

Hello and welcome to Just Answer, my name is XXXXX XXXXX I will assist you with your question.

 

First thing I need to tell you is that the pcm does not supply power to the fuel pump relay it supplies it with the ground that turns it on, the power is supplied from the fuse box. The pcm only controls components on the ground side, not the positive side, so first we need to determine why there is no power there. There should be 2 pins that have power, the third is the one that takes the 12 volt supply power and sends it thru the the enertia switch and then to the fuel pump, the 4th pin is the one that is grounded by the pcm. Since the engine does run when you manually power the fuel pump up I"m going to take for granted that the pcm power relay is being turned on and and the pcm is being turned on when the key is turned on.

 

Your vehicle uses what is called a CCRM relay box (short for constant control relay module). It contains the fuel pump relay and the WOT relay for the A/C compressor. Pin #13 uses a red wire with no tracer, it sends power to all of the relays and is powered by fuse #27 in the power distribution box and the power goes thru the PCM relay first, so if the car starts when you bypass the fuel pump, the fuse must be good or else the pcm would not come on and power up.

 

So check these pins and if all of them are correct, the CCRM is bad and will need to be replaced.

 

Pin #11, Light blue w/ orange tracer 12+ at all times

 

Pins #15 and #18 Black both are grounds and use the same grounding point on the vehicle.

 

Pin #13, red, should be 12+ in both run position and start position

 

Pin #5, red with a black tracer, is 12 volt + when the fuel pump is turned on.

 

Needless to say pin 5 will not be hot if relay is not on, but if all the other pins check out correctly as I have stated, the CCRM will need to be replaced since it cannot be serviced as a unit and they do go bad.

 

If standing in front of the car, the CCRM is under the black plastic cover over the radiator, just to the left of center, it is a black box with a long flat connector to it.

 

any other questions, just respond here and I will be happy to assist you further.

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
I checked all the wires and all are corect except pin 5 which is hot all time with key on in run or start position. I have the module pluged in when checking. also can activate outputs with snap on scaner and does not activate fuel pump. also has codes 1000, 603 and 1116
Expert:  johncrouch1962 replied 2 years ago.
Ok, since you have power at pin 5 with key in run and start that means the relay is ok. Just make sure that you did check it with a test light, not a digital volt meter. Now I would like you to test both wires at the inertia switch with a test light with key in run and on position to make sure power is getting there. Let me know what you find and then we can continue further.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Have checked that also and have power and the inertia switch on red with w stripe and power out on white wire. have power on white wire on fuel pump relay module. That is where I jumper from white wire to pink with bl stripe to run pump. Just got grd from chassic grd. I did all test with test light.
Expert:  johncrouch1962 replied 2 years ago.
The relay that you are talking about that you have power into but not out of is mounted in the truck, correct? this is not a fuel pump relay, it is called a fuel pump module. it is controlled by the pcm and regulates the power to the fuel pump by pulsewidth to control fuel pressure. If no power is getting to the fuel pump from there, then the module is bad and will need to be replaced. the fact that you can run the pump fine with power applied to it proves out the fuel pump its self. replace the electronic module in the trunk.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Is it comon for the to go out. I will get one tomorrow. What time will you be avaliable tomorrow. It's about time for fat old people to go to bed. I'm a lead tech at a Freightliner dealership where I specialize in Detroit engines.
Expert:  johncrouch1962 replied 2 years ago.

I have replaced a few over the years, so they do go out, not like you see them daily though. I work thru the day at my normal job, but do check my pc durring the day so if you post something here I will be notified and will get back to you as soon as I can.

johncrouch1962, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Lincoln
Satisfied Customers: 1676
Experience: Ford master certified, ASE master certified, on Diesel, hybrid and gasoline vehicles
johncrouch1962 and 7 other Lincoln Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

replaced the FPCM and that took care of the fuel pressure and engine runs. Now I have another problem. engien idles real high (2200). took the air piping off which I would assume would bypass the MAF sensor to check the throttle blades and engine will idle with the piping off and as soon as it is put back on RPM's go back up. Tps voltage is .94 and fuel pressure is around 35. Haven't checked for vacum leaks yet but don't see anything obvious. Do you have any thoughts on this issue.

Thanks Jim

Expert:  johncrouch1962 replied 2 years ago.
Let me research that one when I get in the shop in the morning and get back toe you.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
sounds good to me. I stayed up to late watching Daytona race last night. Having troble staying awake.
Expert:  johncrouch1962 replied 2 years ago.

I have finally had a chance to look into this for you. The TPS voltage is ok, should be between .6 and 1.2 volts at idle so that is fine. I have a feeling that you either have a issue with the MAF sensor since when it is taken out of the loop it idles ok. I recomend that you do check for any source of un metered air first. If you can access a know good MAF sensor, I would try that before going out and buying one. Are there any codes stored for this concern?

Customer: replied 2 years ago.

I got to thinking and the engine idled fine until I started to do a KOER test with my Snap On scaner and when it took the rpm"s up for that thay wouldn't come down. I just bought the car from my neibor and it had been setting for about 18 months. I replaced the idle air motor and it is idling good now. Thanks for al your help.

Expert:  johncrouch1962 replied 2 years ago.
That is absolutely great. With it sitting for so long most likely it was just a matter of the shaft becoming stuck once it moved. Glad to hear it, enjoy your car.

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