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I know you said the fuses was good but i need you to check # XXXXX and # XXXXX in the battery junction box. Swap the pcm relay and fuel pump relay with another one. If all are good check the dark green and yellow wire going to the inertia switch and see if you have power. Also make sure the button is pressed down in the switch. Make sure the key is on when checking power
If you are getting voltage going in but not going out and the button is pressed in the switch then the first thing to replace is the switch. This is not a common part failure but voltage doesn't lie. I am giving you a wiring diagram to look over. The parts were wires are coming in is from the fuses that is good.
If you do have power to and from the switch and the pump will not come on then there are 2 options the fuel pump and the cluster. SInce you said the cluster will not read the mileage and looking at the diagram the cluster has a built in fuel reset switch indicator. The cluster could be the problem. Check the grey and orange wire to the switch see if it has power. Also check the yellow and white wire going to the fuel pump and see if you have power. This will let you know if the cluster is sending voltage to the fuel pump. Also while you are at the pump check the pink and black wire to see it there is not a bad wire from the switch to the pump. Now i want you to get a hammer and hit the bottom of the fuel tank and see if the fuel pump is froze. Sometimes this will let it start.If it does start replace the fuel pump
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I really don't know why he has you checking at the cluster. Here is what you need to check. pull the fuel pump relay and find the pin numbers marked on the relay. Now you know the terminal numbers for the fuel pump relay terminals in the fuse box. check for battery power at pin 30. If no good let me know. If good then install a jumper between pin 30 and pin 87. Now see if the fuel pump is running. Let me know these results and we will proceed from there. I think we have another issue here I just want to quickly verify the secondary side of the pump circuit so we can move on to the real problem.
Great! Let me apologize for the other expert, I hope this is not a reflection on the site, most of us actually know what we are doing here.
Ok now check pin 86 with the key in the run and with the key in the start position Looking for battery voltage in both positions, it might be a little lower in the start position due to current draw from the starter. Let me know....
Here is a PIC of the circuit.
Ok If you can flip the fuse box back over and pull the PCM relay, same thing, note the pin numbers and at the terminals. Check pin 30 for battery voltage. This should show battery voltage all the time.
Good Morning. I will be heading out to church and some family events shortly - just wanted to see if you had any results from the PCM relay wiring checks or not.
If I am not online I will check back in with you as soon as I am available.
Glad you got it running. To be honest I know nothing about these other items you mentioned. I'm not much on the aftermarket side of things, though I have built some performance racing transmissions. I would recommend opening a new question and hopefully one of the experts has experience with the additional items you need advice on. Good luck to you and take care.
That is a bummer!
Quite a bit on that circuit. Coils, PCM relay (coil side only), cluster and pats key transceiver.If it never blows with the key on only when running,then its probably not the pcm relay circuit or the pats transceiver or the cluster. If I had to guess I would say coil circuit? You could unplug one at a time and see if the short goes away. You might get a circuit breaker for that fuse for testing so you are not having to constantly replace fuses. The key is that it does not blow until it runs. The only current draw that is changing would be the coils firing. I doubt its a wire if it were it should blow right away with the key on. If it does blow with just the key on and the engine off then all bets are off and it could be anything which means process of elimination by unpluging components one at a time, disconnecting circuits one at a time.
Wow this vehicle is just full of surprises.
Any oil or coolant in the spark plug well? Have you had the plug out? Any evidence of combustion gas getting past the plug either between the porcelain and base or around the threads/taper seat from being under torqued??
That would be a 50/50 gamble IMO. It would need to be programmed also with an IDS.
Good luck to you Robert, I am always up for a good challenge, wish I could get my hands on it for a day or two. Its been interesting to say the least!