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Unfortunately, there is no statute of limitations on child support arrears in PA or CA, which means that if you are the father, you are liable for payment of support for the child. The fact that the child is now 29 does not preclude you from being liable for the support. The only way to get relieved of the support, would be if the mother would agree to waive the arrears or if you can negotiate to pay her off lump sum for less than you owe and she agrees to accept that and waive any balance. Aside from those two options, I am afraid that legally they can continue to collect.
As far as challenging paternity, you would have had to have filed suit to challenge paternity BEFORE the child turned 18 in PA. See: 23 Pa.C.S. 4343. Because she moved the child from CA to PA and the child became a resident of PA, the PA courts would have jurisdiction even though the child was born in CA where you both lived at the time of the birth.