As my wife left the house this morning she tried to close the garage door from the car and at the same time, I tried to close from the wall control. Now garage door is stuck in the up position. Pushing button you now hear a click, but nothing happens. Any ideas?
Craftsman 1/2 hp XXXXX XXXXXght flashing in a sequence of 5 blinks on opener.
How long did you unplug the opener, and have you been able to disconnect the garage door to take the load off of the opener? Also, to check to see if the main board is available, we could use the model number you find on the opener.
Right now I'm comparing options to the price of a $148 1/2 HP NEW opener to the worst case scenario of the Main board somehow shorting the relay drive IC on the main board.
Looking at the "whole picture" here, so that's why we need to get the model number.
What I'm hoping for....you just unplugged it for a couple seconds versus unplugging it for 5 minutes . Or both of you pressing the buttons before the garage door even had a chance to move downward and it may have travelled past the UP limit setting.
Let me unplug for 5 minutes. I will get the model number for you
Ok, see if you can disconnect your garage door too, It's not important, but I prefer to take the load off the garage opener so if the unit has to be manually adjusted DOWN....it's going to be easier and if it did jump past the UP limit....we may have to adjust the UP limit control Higher, then lower to get it to restore operation.
That's why the details are important. If you both pressed it at the same time and the unit MOVED....limit settings come into play. If it NEVER moved...we start looking at Logic control issues.
I called wife to confirm she pushed button too and she said she did not.
What do you do to disconnect the garage door? It has a manual release cord. Is that it?
Yes the manual release cord just disconnects the garage door from the opener, takes the load off the motor.
Hmm, wife did not operate the button. So you (in theory) were the only one commanding the opener to go down, and....
1] It didn't budge an inch
2] It budged an inch then quit
3] It's been sounding like it's been straining for some time, and now it did or did not budge an inch before it quit.
Correct, it turns out I was the only one operating the door. It moved a little bit and then stopped.
Haven't noticed any strain on the door. Should I go ahead and pull release cord and lower door?
If it was in the DOWN position I wouldn't worry about MINE....but if your door is "handle-less" like mine...then the up position is questionable.
The fun thing....my spring broke last week, installed a new one, was able to roll door up and down no problems, even without a handle on it. I can't see your situation, so you do have to assess whether you want the door disconnected and close-able.
Then we have to look at security and Fastness of repair too....You live in the middle of a big city and need the security now, or in the middle of nowhere and have never even been visited by a lost traveler?
I'm in the middle of a city, so security is important.
That's priority in your situation. Trying to reset the unit is basically what we'll try to do, but with your wife stating she didn't press the button at the same time....it doesn't sound like a logic failure, and certainly not a "past the UP limiter" either.
It sounds like your motor died, or you have a ton of spiders building webs around the motor's photosensors that detect motor movement.
That's what you 5 blink is all about.
Ok, I have pulled release cord and manually lowered door. There is a handle on the door, so I can lift and lower. What needs to be done for the reset to happen? Would certainly prefer that over a new motor if that will work.
That's the model.
That should be the logic board for about $95.
I don't know if that's going to show your motor, but it's part #13 for the cost of $152.00, and when you know a new 1/2 HP opener is only $148...that's when you have some decision making to do.
Copy and paste your model number in that page, it shows pictures of all your opener's parts.
I would at LEAST see if I can get the cover off the motor and possibly spin the motor forward at least an inch or two, (unplug it) and check around the worm gear/pulley assembly for a board that would detect movement of the worm gear/pulley. No spinning, you get no feedback signal. I doubt that's it. Your motor doesn't move at all, telling me the logic board is MORE likely than the MOTOR or motor sensor.
I am at a loss. I can't get any of the gears to move. I see this opener was made in 1997. Are we at the end of the lifespan for an opener. Is it worth trying to get repaired, or better off getting a new opener?
I thought your's was built 1997 at first....you're doing an online search aren't you.
The model number...it actually clashed with Sears part site when I put the original number in...that FIVE I think is actually a S.
It shows being made in May 1997
You are right. The digit before the "R" is actually an "s"
Ok....that actually good news because that unit was SO POPULAR they built it from 1997 to 2007, which makes PARTs ....and Replacement units both cheap and available.
That's just the way business does business...
Now...we have to see if --
We can spin that motor so the track moves forward.
We can check the board just in front of the worm gear and see if the contacts (see Sear's parts page - that inset on the lower right showing the motor) are PAST the UP limiter.
There are several things I would check.
The motor.....move it so the unit moves down.
The limiter....I'd want to at least SEE if I can see the contacts on the board,
Lastly, I'd try to check the voltages on the motor wires. I have a voltmeter so I can do that. One is going to be ground, a second one is likely DC 24 or 36 volts, and the 3rd wire...it's likely to switch polarity between ±12 to 36 volts to change motor direction.
Thats why you hear relays click...not one but maybe two relays should click and make the motor change direction and move. If the UP relay mode is stuck....you're only going up up up and then into JAMMED up mode.
I don't know if that's what happened, but I sure would like to find some way to Power rotate that release bar about a third of the way down the track, then test it.
But I don't expect you to manually roll it down that far. I would hope that Sears maybe extended the motor shaft at one end so you can install a drill and spin the motor down.
That's probably wishful thinking....more than likely you'd end up having to remove the motor, manually move it down, test the motor by setting it on your ladder (Probably using 18 inch long jumper wires from Radio Shack or Sears)
Those are available too. But they're not readily available IN YOUR HOME right now.
Spinning the motor can be done NOW...but it's also a pain if Sears didn't give us an option to spin it easily to advance the track downward.
That's what I'm presently fighting with....
How to get the motor and track to advance far enough and perform the up/down test to see if the motor moves, see if the Limit switch went the wrong direction and caused the 5 blink failure, or see if the relays on the Logic board are the cause of the problem.
If I'm a betting man...I'd bet the logic board is the failure, not the motor.
Decided to replace the opener. Thank you for your help.