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Yamaha RX-485 Receiver plays tuner fine but connected CD player and dual tape deck player play fine for 25 seconds before receiver automatically turns off. CD player or dual tape deck player continue to run (are connected to a power strip) but have no sound as receiver shut down. Disconnected/reconnected all audio in/out cables and device power cables. Tuner continues to play fine but other devices continue to have same issue. What should I do?
Optional Information: Make: Yamaha receiver Model: RX-485
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Michelle,
I am still holding for expert advice from JustAnswer. Other info that may be of help: the problem occurred suddenly, as far as I can tell. I have owner's manual but it is no help for this issue. In sum, tuner plays fine but connected CD player and dual deck cassette player do not.
Matt
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I will be here on and off all week--will check in and provide more info if requested.
Thanx, Matt
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Please allow me a few moments to review your question again.So your tuner [the yamaha] is fine but any external device is shutting the amp down?Will40897.0833291319
If I am correct and the Yamaha tuner is fine, but no other input source will operate what method did you use to connect to the Yamaha and as far as the DVD are you running both audio and video through the amp or just the audio?For example I run the audio to my amp but run my video striaght to my monitor [TV] with an HDMI Cable, why, I have less problems with HDMI Handshakes, [connecting consistently] I use optical in to the amp, and again I use HDMI to the TV for video, can you tell me how you are connecting your external devices?
Will,
The tuner works fine but other input sources--the CD player and the dual cassette deck--there is no DVD player and no video--shut the receiver off after 20-25 seconds. In other words, the CD player or cassette player continue to play but there is no sound coming out of the speakers connected to the receiver. The input sources are connected to the receiver with cables that have red and white ends--one for Left channel and the other for Right channel. I have used these years and I have never had any sort of problem before.
Oh so you were able to use these devices connected by RCA cables, now all of a sudden the external components do not work, but the tuner is still fine, OK I would suggest first things first, we do a hard reset, [because it worked before]Here are the instructions:
Hard reset,
[ no picture, sound issues, missing device inputs, memory gone, setups both audio and video, sound problems and video ratios changed, etc]
Remove [unplug from wall] ALL power cords to TV and ALL connected components attached to the SYSTEM . Remove ALL data cables [HDMI, COMPONENT, Standard RCA, Coaxial from all devices, especially any Coaxial cables from cable TV, router or Satellite, as those cables will reset in a different fashion than the power reset alone,
HDMI will reset in a different fashion also
REMOVE POWER and not for a couple seconds it takes some patience, most cable and sat techs will tell you to remove for 2 minutes, sometimes it takes 20 minutes or longer
Once you have all power cords removed from every device and ALL data cables
you want to give the components at least 5 to 30 minutes to reset, this lets any capacitors or eproms or internal components reset
Going back
Put the coaxials or RCA [red and white push in connectors] if any back first, followed by the data cords, followed by the power cords, then turn the TV ON FIRST this is important if any HDMI cables are used, but it should be done in that order no matter what setup you have.
I will try this but there are no data cables nor is there a TV involved. This will take at least 30 minutes or so but I will try it (again). I did this before but in no particular order and not for 30 minutes.
OK. I disconnected input/output cables (RCAs) from CD and cassette players and then disconnected power cords of CD, cassette player and receiver. I waited 30 minutes. I then reconnected input/output cables. There is no data cable. There is no TV. I then reconnected power cables to power strip with surge protector. Plugged power strip to wall outlet. I turned on the receiver and tuner--works fine. Turned on CD player and changed receiver input button from "tuner" to "CD". Played a CD for the first 25 seconds, and then the receiver automatically turned off but the CD player continued to run, but without sound. This is exactly what happened previously.
What now?
OK Data cables are the red and white RCA cables, or HDMI cables, or component cables, they carry data, be it sound or video, it is data, in analog form or digital form it is data, or a signal, I just try and cover all bases as many times with the advent of HDMI a hard reset will fix things the first time, Have you tried to disconnect one external device and then try and use the other?So it is a CD player stand alone unit, and a stand alone dual cassette, both worked before with RCA cables, but nothing now, two hard resets, I would disconnect one of the units, You use a power strip, so we are not over amping or over current on the individual units, the Yamaha for some reason is now unable to withstand the input current from the CD player or the Cassette deck, maybe for 25 seconds but past that the overload in the Yamaha shuts down and no sound, the external components continue to run, So it is in the over current protection in the Yamaha and because the tuner works, it is not a problem with the speaker wires, or speakers, Do you have a good vacuum? Can you vacuum the YAMAHA anywhere the cooling air is vented in or out, DO NOT USE CANS OF COMPRESSED AIR< they will condensate and blow moisture in your amp, use a vacuum Maybe enough dust has covered the internal components of the YAMAHA and what used to work, now trips due to a lack of cooling and a false over current trip, because it would not be probable that both the CD player and the Cassette deck both had problems at the same time, it is possible but this problem from all the testing you have done points to some kind of problem in the YAMAHA amp circuitry, and dust and contaminates can get in these devices over the years laying a nice insulating blanket over heat sinks, and other components, IF YOU HAVE DRY COMPRESSED AIR you can use compressed air to blow the unit out, but only if it is dry, much better to vacuum, even better if you feel you are capable is to remove the cover of the YAMAHA and vacuum with the cover off, at the same time you can get a good light and inspect the components on the various boards, looking at the tops for any bulging and for any darkened areas or tracks which are most likely carbon tracks where something has shorted partially and is leaking across the carbon, this is the next logical step, as you have done everything you can do externally, now you must go into the YAMAHA either by vacuuming from the outside, or the best as described is to remove the cover and UNPLUG then vacuum the internal portion of the YAMAHA
Sorry that I have not gotten back to you sooner--blizzard in Colorado, daughter drove in last night and things are crazy here! Haven't had time to check out your advice. I will attempt to do so now. The idea of the Yamaha overheating due to excessive dust makes sense--had this happen to a PC before. Is there a fan inside the receiver--don't think that there is but will find out within the next 15-30 minutes.
Bear with me--I will get back to you!
I disconnected CD and cassette players. Opened the receiver and vacuumed, brushing very lightly with a delicate brush. No obvious discoloration anywhere within nor any parts that seemed damaged or mishapen/bulging. Noted that there is a fuse-like thing near the power cord inside the receiver but saw no other fuses. Reconnected CD player only with NO SPEAKERS connected. CD player and receiver ran for 6-7 minutes. Connected CD player to switched AC outlet in back of receiver--also worked fine. Put cover back on receiver. Connected speakers to receiver. Connected CD player ONLY to receiver. Played CD player--ran for 10 seconds and receiver turned off as before.
Well you did a perfect job, can you power the external units from the wall just to test? Don't take power from the unswitched or switched plug in on the back I realize they should only be a shunt, but it is about all we have left to try, it sounds like the internal amp is faulting you have done everything a human can do externally and internally, but let's try powering the other units from an extension cord plugged into another outlet, any chance there has been load added to that particular circuit and you are experiencing a volt drop to the Yamaha? I play guitar and have a power conditioner with built in volt meter on the face, my voltage runs a bit high most of the time, 125 but will drop off to 119 depending on time of year and time of day, it is a possiblity anything below 10% of the voltage rating can create problems, if you had a volt meter it would be interesting to know what the exact voltage is at the amp, if you can try and fire up the other two from a different home circuit than the amp, that will be interesting to know also, but if it is a case where the utility has dropped voltage or you are having a grounding issue I would think you would notice dim lights to a degree, and maybe other issues, but at least we can get the power off the amp and see what happens,
Now that you mentioned it, I did notice that the pole lamp that is also plugged into the power strip dimmed noticeably when I turned on the receiver--don't recall if it was just the receiver or whether it was the CD player being turned on. I will check this out tomorrow AM as it is now 11:30 PM. I'm pretty sure that the CD and cassette players play when connected to the wall outlet--they usually are connected to the power strip, not the AC switched outlet in the receiver. We set up the Christmas tree in the living room with the stereo but the problem existed before the lights went on the tree. I will be sure that the lights (pole lamp, too) are all off before I test the external devices. I do not have a voltmeter--haven't used one since high school physics in 1971. I will check out these things tomorrow AM and get back to you ASAP. Was rehearsing for Christmas Eve and Christmas Day services at my church--I play guitar, too.
You are a guitar player also great, a friend of mine plays in his Church Band. I haven't played in a band since around the time you took physics, I just try to keep up with it, it is also a good workout for my arthritis.You might think about a power conditioner yourself. If you have a practice amp or mixer or gear of anykind that is either pricey or you want clean as you get, a power conditioner is the way to go. Mine is a rack mount but instead of a rack I got one of those plastic stands that have three large pull out drawers, I sit the conditioner on the stand, stash picks and cords and books in the drawers and it sits right next to my favorite chair, my Line 6 practice amp sits four feet in front of me to the side by the wall. I can flip on the amp using the conditioner switch and have constant monitoring of the voltage levels. It was not hugely expensive around $250 or so If you need a guitar or amp, I have a boat load I am going to finally be rid of, everything from new Schecters to antique Kays, both electric and acoustic, got a wide range of sound pedals, and a bunch of amps, all types and sizes, so if you have been looking for anything let me know, I might have it, my Dad had a lot of these, he passed several years back and I am now just getting able to start dealing with all of it, I bought some spare guitars and parts to match some of the stuff he had, so I have twins of some, I have a set of Delta Kings, one black one blue, probably 40 guitars and 20 some amps.Back to your amp now it is a situation. Anytime ANYTHING dims that sets off big time ALARM bells, it does mean a voltage drop is occuring due to something or some things, be it a bad outlet, power strip, incoming voltage is on the ragged edge, and something is probably getting too hot, where you don't feel it or notice it, but anytime something dims, it is starved for voltage, assuming you have a 120 volt bulb in a 120 fixture, wattage could be part of it, but I doubt it, A volt meter, there are volt meters at about any hardware store now days and most have some in the $5.99 sale basket, all you need is a cheapy, and with all you are telling me now, you probably ought to invest in one, they also have those small plug in outlet checkers, that have indicator lights and tell you if the outlet is polarized correctly, the fancier ones have a volt readout in the middle, but a volt meter is a cheap investment when you have these kind of things going on, but for now you need to split up the loads to as many different circuits as possible, every year around this time, lights are burning houses down, power strips are burning houses down, it gets dicey, these loads from lights and all the new decorations that are on the market just add to the problems, 15 amp wall circuits are already on the edge with big screen tvs, blu ray players, xboxes, laptops, pcs, all this stuff gets added overtime and most people just find a spot and plug it in, a 200 amp entrance is barely enough for a modern household, So for many reasons you need to figure out what is going on, a pole lamp dimming bothers me, not to freak you out, but you do have enough smoke detectors with good batteries and have tested them in the last few months?I have to remind myslef to check that stuff, but it is important to have in working order, It could be you are only being fed 110 volts or less from the utility, or it could be your ground rod is not adequate, a nuetral connection is loose , lots of stuff, but first get those loads moved and see what you have, no lights should dim, anytime, on anything It goes the other way also, I have measured voltages at over 151 at homes and asked the owner if they noticed they were changing light bulbs often, he said yes and wondered why he had to change out many of the same bulbs every 4 weeks, duh the utility had him juiced so high I was surprised the bulbs didn't burst when screwed in, so it would be a good thing to know if you can find one to borrow or buy a cheapo and at least get a baseline it is just not the same as it was as explained when most homes were built none of the new technologies where common to most homes, now they are, so we have microwaves up in the thousands of watts that really need to be on dedicated circuits, all these electronic gizmos, trying to be fed off 15 amp circuits, it can be done, but the home owner has to get some info on load balancing, maybe even do some circuit work, So let me know what you figure out, again best thing is to bring in power from outlets and circuits you know are fairly lightly loaded, which means temporary extension cords until you can figure out what is dimming the pole lamp, and if you can get a baseline on the voltage even better at different outlets at different times of the day and days of the week, we might find you are running on low voltage, where a year ago, the voltage might have been higher, utilities swap things around all the time, and don't spend the time to measure each and every individual supply so the home owner has to take over that duty, but it is real easy and real common to see low voltage, plus added on stuff in a home and all kinds of problems normally when a bulb dims enough to be noticed by the human eye, the drop is so great current has gone UP at the same time and nuicance breaker tripping starts showing up, but you found something, not sure if this is the cause of the amp and players shutting down but it is a good probability let me know and if anything else is going on let me know that also
Experience: 30 plus years industrial electronic electrical repair
The CD player runs fine by itself. Checked everything that is on the living room circuit, turned everything off, plugged CD player into power strip, plugged receiver into power strip, turned on receiver, played the tuner OK, turned on CD player, switched receiver to "CD", played a CD for 15 seconds with sound before the receiver shut off, CD player continued to run without sound. I wonder if the receiver would play the CD if no speakers were attached. Maybe the amp can't take signals from external devices, amplify them, and send them to the speakers. The speaker cables are 15-20 ' long. Don't tell me--is that another problem? Running out of ideas here. I will check my smoke detectors (good idea anyway). I will also try running the devices off another circuit via extension cord.
I will try a new battery for the pickup in my Collings acoustic because it sounded awful or not at all in the church sound system last night. Frustrating as I am to play all of the neat acoustic seasonal stuff--there's little demand for old folky stuff, but that's me. I have very little experience with amps, sound systems, and electric guitars so I usually feel lost up on the stage. Then, I hear my fingerpicking through the monitor and it seems so right--if it sounds at all!
I'm going to "accept answer" here, Will. I've never used JustAnswer before so I'm not sure how it works and what I am supposed to do. You've stuck with me for a long while and I've learned a lot. The receiver is still not fixed but I'm beginning to think that I've got some issues here. Bulbs on the living room circuit (stereo is on this circuit) frequently burn out--especially ones in the overhead fixtures in the bedrooms which are the original fixtures in a 1940 house with its original wiring. Everything was on 1 circuit in 1990 when we had a service change and added a number of new circuits and a circuit box. I've wondered if I should test the main floor circuit and its outlets/fixtures because nothing was ever done to it--we just added new circuits as need be.
If anything I just wrote causes a light to go off in your head, please let me know.
Merry Christmas, Will!