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1) The traveler wires will connect from each 3-way to the 4-way traveler screws as shown in the diagram below:
Reply back and let me know if the diagram helps............Thanks................Kevin:)
1) Do you have a continuity tester available? If so, you can confirm which wires are the travelers.
2) Were the switch boxes wired with metal conduit or Romex cable?
1) What are the 2 wire colors that terminate to the 2 brass screws on each of the 3-ways?
Thanks for the replies.
1) If the black and white wires are terminated to the brass screws on the 3-ways, those are the traveler wires.
2) Do you have a continuity tester available? If so, you can confirm which wires are the travelers.
3) Were the switch boxes wired with metal conduit or Romex cable?
OK, very good.
On a 4-way switching circuit, the 4-way switch must always be installed in the middle wall box.
Since the 4-way box only contains 2 separate Romex cables, those are the traveler wires.
Look at the diagram I sent. The 2 black and red wires are the travelers. Since you have a black and white and no red wire, terminate the white wires to the 4-way switch using the 2 top brass screws. Then terminate the 2 black wires to the 4-way switch using the 2 bottom brass screws.
At each of the 3-way brass screws, label those 2 wires using white electrical tape and label them as "T". This way, you or the next person will know that those wires are the travelers.
Reply back and let me know if working OK...........Thanks............Kevin:)
1) You have two 3-ways and one 4-way, correct?
OK, as a temporary test, remove the 4-way switch. Splice the 2 whites together with a wire nut and splice the 2 blacks together with a wire nut.
Do both of the 3-ways work correctly with the 4-way removed?
Sounds good. Thanks.
1) Back out both of the 3-ways from the wall box but don't disconnect any wires. Leave the wires spliced together in the 4-way box.
2) At the one of the 3-ways, the black screw must always have 120 volts whether the switch is ON or OFF. Only one of the 3-ways black screw will have a constant voltage. The other 3-way black screw will only have voltage when the 1st 3-way is in the ON position.
3) You will need a voltmeter or a 2 wire lead AC voltage tester to confirm which 3-way is the hot circuit feed.
4) Do you have a white neutral wire at the light box and where does it originate from?
1) Since the 4-way box does not contain a neutral wire, you either ran the neutral to the light box from another source or a 3 wire Romex cable must be installed and tandemed thru the 4-way box from the 1st 3-way to the 4-way and then to the 2nd 3-way. You only have 2 wire Romex cables connecting each 3-way to the 4-way?
2) Look at the diagram and see how the white neutral wire is tandeming thru each of the 3 wall switch boxes and then makes it's way to the light fixture?
Is this a brand new installation for all 3 switches or was the wiring previously installed? If previously installed, what is the approximate age of the home?
OK, lets try this.
Re-install the 4-way but this time change the wire color terminations. Try white on the 2 top brass screws and black on the 2 bottom brass screws.
If still not working then reverse the wires and terminate the 2 black to the top and the 2 white to the bottom screws.
Thanks for the pic's
1) Looks like the 4-way will be installed on the right side. The 3 gang box definately contains neutral wires.
2) Are you able to measure a constant 120 volts at one of the 3-way black screw terminals labeled as COM?
1) One of the 3-ways on the black screw terminal labeled as COM must contain a constant 120 volts. Since no voltage reading at either 3-way black screw, were there any alterations or replacing switches in one or both of the 3-way boxes?
2) Somewhere you have a loose wire termination or a faulty splice on the hot circuit feed. If no constant 120 volts at one of the 3-ways, then the switches won't work.
If the wires are back-stab inserted, those are always a problem as they come loose. All wires should be terminated to the side screws.
At one of the 3-ways, you should be able to measure a constant 120 volts from the black COM screw to a bare copper ground wire whether both 3-ways are ON or OFF.
Looks like the wires are all terminated under the screws, so you should be good there.
One of the 3-ways may contain a pigtail wire on its black COM screw that jumpers over to an adjacent switch or a wire nut splice. You will need to trace it and measure there.
Set the meter to the AC voltage setting. It will contain a sine wave symbol. Set it to the 200 volt range.
Then place the red or black meter probe to the 3-way black screw COM and the other meter probe to a bare copper ground wire. The meter color probes don't matter, either way will work.
You can also locate a known working wall receptacle to confirm if the meter is working correctly. Place 1 meter probe into the receptacle short slot and the other meter probe into the long slot. Should measure approx 120 volts at the receptacle.
That is not a voltage meter, it is a clamp-on amp meter and only measures current (amperage).Unless it has a 2 wire lead on it.
You need one of these: Either type will check for 120 volts.
If the clamp-on meter contains a black and a red wire lead, then it can measure voltage and set it to the "V" setting and it should auto-range.
OK, sorry I am not able to assist you.
If you want another electrical expert who may see something that I am missing, I can opt out of the question and place it back to the open board and another expert can take over if you like. Your choice?
Take care and have a good evening............Thanks..............Kevin:)
I can send your question to a moderator and they can refund your deposit if you like.
Just let me know..........Thanks...........Kevin:)
No problem, am sending the question now and they will provide you with a refund.