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1) What are the wire colors that terminate to each wall switch?
2) Do you have a 2 wire lead AC voltage tester (a contact type) or an AC voltmeter available?
3) What is the wiring scheme that was used? NM Romex cable or conduit or other?
Thanks for the replies.
1) Unfortunately a non-contact voltage tester is the wrong type of tester to use. A 2 wire lead AC voltage tester is a must have whenever performing any electrical work. non-contact tester senses voltage by induction and can easily provide a false indication from other wires within a box.
2) Not sure why the wall switch has 2 white wires terminated to it as there should only be 1 white and 1 black wire. What about the wire colors on the right switch?
3) At the ceiling box, locate 1 separate Romex cable that will contain a black, a white and a bare copper ground. Splice the light fixture wires color to color to only 1 Romex cable. Leave the 2nd Romex cable in the ceiling box "as-is" and not spliced to anything. Since you don't have the proper tester, we will use the light fixture as a tester. Once the light works, flip each wall switch ON/OFF and confirm that the breaker does not trip. If the light remains in the ON position, identify the house black wire with some black electrical tape.
Reply back and let me know what happens and we can take it from there..........Thanks..........Kevin:
Thanks for the replies and the pic.
1) Did you try the 2nd Romex cable at the ceiling box? Leave the 1st cable that you just tested, not spliced to anything.
2) Inside the wall switch box, do you know which are the 2 Romex cables that originate from the ceiling box? If so, trace each white in the 2 Romex switch box cables and see if they both splice to a group of white neutrals?
3) Are you saying that the original fan light kit was controlled by the right switch and the right switch also controls a wall receptacle?
1) When you de-installed the fan and light kit, did the fan have a black wire and the light kit had a blue wire? If so, were these spliced individually to the ceiling box blacks?
2) Were the 2 ceiling whites spliced together prior to de-installing the fan and light kit?
3) Thanks..........hmmmmm.... interesting, Not sure why a wall switch controlled both the ceiling and a receptacle. It is typically one or the other.
1) If the circuit originates at the ceiling box, then one of the Romex cables should be the circuit hot & neutral and the new light should stay ON irregardless of turning the switches ON or OFF. And the breaker should not trip.
2) If either of the ceiling Romex cables does not contain the "always live" circuit, then the power is originating from the wall switch box.
3) Perhaps you can borrow a contact tester or a voltmeter from a neighbor or friend? If not, you can purchase a 2 wire lead AC voltage tester (a contact type) at any Home Depot, Lowe's or Ace Hardware stores. Having the tester will be able to confirm the functionality of the ceiling box wires.
See link shown below:
1) If the left switch originally controlled the fan and the right switch originally controlled the fan light kit, then the 2 ceiling black wires should be for the switched loops that originate from the 2 switches. Yet you have 1 switch that has 2 white wires terminated to it. A white wire is allowed to be used as a hot conductor, but not as a switched loop conductor leaving the switch. Something is not correct here. Thus the reason, I need to understand how the original fan and light kit were spliced?