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Can you provide some additional details as follows?
1) Does power (circuit feed hot & neutral) originate at the wall switch box or at the lighting box?
2) What type of wall switch controls the light? A single pole switch with 2 wires or a 3-way switch with 3 wires?
3) Do you have either a 2 wire lead AC voltage tester or an AC voltmeter available?
4) Does the light always stay ON or is the light not working?
Thank you for the replies.
1) At each of the 3-way wall switches, what are the wire colors that terminate to each of the brass screws?
2) On a 3-way switching circuit, there needs to be 3 wires terminating to each switch. Is this what you have?
Thanks for the replies.
1) If power is originating at one of the switch boxes, the white neutral wire is required to be fed thru each 3-way box and extending to the light box. Can't use a white wire as a traveler if the power originated at the 1st 3-way switch box.
2) Refer to the diagram shown below:
3) Is this a brand new installation? Both switches and the light are new or is this an existing installation?
1) Any idea if the 3-ways were wired prior to the 1960's?
OK, reason I was asking about the age was that prior to the 60's it was somewhat common to wire 3-way switches as either Carter or California switched which is a more complicated method as compared to the diagram I sent you.
Since the home was built in the 80's, the 3-ways should have been wired as shown in the diagram as this is the most common method.
You will require either a 2 wire lead AC voltage tester (a contact type) or an AC voltmeter to confirm the functionality of the existing wires. Pen testers sense voltage based on inductance and can easily provide a false indication since they can pick up voltage from other wires within a box.
You should have a 3 wire Romex running between the two 3-way boxes. And a two wire Romex feeding the circuit hot and neutral to one switch and a two wire Romex at the other 3-way box that extends to the lighting box. Just like the diagram illustrates.