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Kevin
Kevin, Licensed Electrician
Category: Electrical
Satisfied Customers: 2943
Experience:  29 years as a Licensed Electrical Contractor in Illinois, 5 year college Electrical Instructor, Former Electrical Inspector, Diploma in Digital Electronics, Former Illinois Licensed Home Inspector
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I am replacing three pendant lights. I currently hooked up

Customer Question

Hi Jason. I am replacing three pendant lights. I currently hooked up one pendant and used the old bulb to test and verify that it works. I turned on the power, and the bulb is lit. However, the dinner is no longer controlling it, so I cannot dim it or turn it off. This pendant had three sets of wires to connect, the second pendant has two sets and the third has one set. I was guessing that is because they are all wired together. Any idea what I did wrong?
Submitted: 11 months ago.
Category: Electrical
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

Hello and welcome to Just Answer. My name is ***** ***** I will be happy to assist you with your electrical question.

1) You mention that the one pendant light worked. Was it wired to the dimmer switch?

2) I assume that you want the dimmer switch to simultaneously control all 3 pendant lights at the same time, is that correct?

3) How many wires on each pendant light? 2 or 3 wires each?

4) Is there a separate ceiling box for each pendant light?

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
1) Yes the pendant light worked, as in the bulb lit, however the dimmer was not working on it. The dimmer previously controlled all three lights Simultaneously and was the only way the pendants turned on and off. Yes it was previously wired to the dimmer switch.3) previous to hooking up each pendant, the pendant itself has one wire split two ways. Each one is the same. The wires are not marked black and white, the only way I guessed which side was white was because that side of the cord had writing printed on it just like the white cord coming out of the wall.4) I am not positive what a ceiling box is? Is that where the mounting plate it connected? If so, then yes there are three separate
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

Thanks for the replies.

1) What are the wire colors on the pendant light?

Is the pendant light wire insulation a clear color or a brown color? Take a look at the wire extending out from the lights, does one side of the wire insulation have ribbed edges on it and the other side has a smooth insulation on it?

2) A ceiling electrical box is the box where the pendant lights are connected and wired to.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
I would Hi Jason. I am replacing three pendant lights. I currently hooked up one pendant and used the old bulb to test and verify that it works. I turned on the power, and the bulb is lit. However, the dinner is no longer controlling it, so I cannot dim it or turn it off. This pendant had three sets of wires to connect, the second pendant has two sets and the third has one set. I was guessing that is because they are all wired together. Any idea what I did wrong?
Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Oops sorry about the text, it came through again
Customer: replied 11 months ago.
I am not seeing ribbed, it appears that both sides are smooth. And the electrical box I am guessing is one, only because I have never opened up the ceiling so I am not sure
Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Now after looking again, the side with the printed words is smooth and the blank side is ribbed
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

OK, very good, Thanks for confirming.

Give me about 10 more minutes as I am creating a wiring diagram for you. I will be back shortly.........Thanks..........Kevin:)

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Perfect thank you Kevin. Is it possible that I blew the dimmer switch? Or would that be evident by my lights not coming on at all?
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

No problem, glad to assist.

1) Any chance you have an AC voltmeter available as this can confirm if the dimmer switch is working correctly?

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
No I don't believe so. I will check but pretty sure I do not. Just thought I heard a lighter popping sound when I flipped the power back on but couldn't tell if that was a click from the box or from upstairs
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

A popping sound indicates that a direct short circuit occurred and the breaker may have tripped. Have you reset the circuit breaker?

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
I have I think? As in, I flipped the breaker off and back on then checked again. The light still would not dim or respond to me pushing the switch all the way up or down which normally turned them on or off. But there isn't a reset button on the dimmer panel, if that is something I need to look for?
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

Depends on the type of dimmer switch you have. Some dimmers just have a rotary dial while other have a toggle ON/OFF and a smaller slide switch to control the dimming portion.

Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

Shown below is the wiring diagram I created.

Let me know if this helps.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
I just have a vertical slider. No separate toggle on side or bottom to control easy on and off
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

Yes, that is a common dimmer type, similar to the one I showed on the diagram. The slider turns the switch ON & OFF and also controls the dimming feature.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Ok. So looks like since I thought the printed side was white but it's a smooth side, I was wrong. The printer smooth side is to be connected to the hot/black wire. Is that correct?
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

Yes, that's correct.

Smooth side = hot wire and gets spliced to black wire

Ribbed side = neutral wire and gets spliced to the white wire

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Ok I am gonna switch those and see if that works
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

Connect the 1st light and see if that works correctly before splicing the other 2 lights. Let's get the 1st light working for now.

Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

1) At the box with the 3 sets of Romex cables, were any of the white wires spliced to a black wire prior to de-installing the original light?

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
I switched the two, light comes on again. But dimmer is not working.
Customer: replied 11 months ago.
I am not positive but yes I believe there may have been one that was like that. But not sure which it was?
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

OK, it is possible that either the dimmer is fried or you have the light connected to an always "live" hot wire that is not being controlled by the dimmer switch. Thus the reason to have an AC voltmeter available to confirm.

How many and what are the wires colors that are spliced on the dimmer switch? 1 white and 1 black or 2 blacks

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Do I unscrew the switch plate from the wall to verify that?
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

Yes, you will need to remove the wall switch plate and then remove the 2 screws holding the dimmer switch to the box. Gently back the dimmer out from the box but do no disconnect any wires from it.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
2 blacks 1 green
Customer: replied 11 months ago.
It also seems like one of the pendant lights did not have the grounded wire attached. But the other two did. Is that possible?
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

OK, thanks.

1) At the ceiling box that has the 3 cables, one of the black wires is extending out from the dimmer switch and that is the black wire that will splice to the other 2 black wires in that box.

2) Each light should contain the bare copper ground wire.

3) No chance of getting either an AC voltmeter or a 2 wire lead AC voltage tester so you can confirm the ceiling box wires?

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Unfortunately not. I looked and we don't have one
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

OK, thanks.

1) I recommend obtaining either a meter or a 2 wire lead AC voltage tester to continue. Otherwise, it will have to be wired by trial & error and there is always a chance of not wiring it correctly and sparks may fly from a short circuit. Safety 1st:)

2) Perhaps you can borrow a meter from a neighbor or a friend tomorrow? If not, Home Depot or Lowe's sells a good AC voltmeter for $25 or less.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
in the box with three cables, should not all three white, all three black, and all three copper be spliced? You said one cable is the dimmer switch, that cable looks like the other two as it has all three wires in it, so I need to figure out which one that is and only splice the black wire but not the other two?
Customer: replied 11 months ago.
In the dimmer switch, the wires coming out are two black and one green. One black is spliced with a white, the other is spliced with a black. The green (copper?) is spliced with the copper
Customer: replied 11 months ago.
As seen in this photo
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

1) In the ceiling box that has the 3 Romex cables, each cable contains 3 separate wires. One of those cables originates from the dimmer. Another cable extends out to the 2nd ceiling box and the 3rd cable is being used as the circuit feed.

2) OK, the white wire spliced to the dimmer black is being used as the hot conductor into the dimmer. Therefore, 1 of the ceiling box white wires is actually a hot wire and was spliced to a ceiling black wire and is not a neutral wire. Much safer using a voltmeter at the ceiling box to confirm which one.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
In all three boxes, there is one cable that has a piece of paper in it. This is also seen in the dimmer switch cable. Does this signify the dimmer cable?
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

Unfortunately, no. All of the white Romex cables contain paper inside. the paper on the other 2 cables were just neatly cut off and removed as that is why you can't see the paper that well.

Look at the ceiling box whites, does any one of them contain a piece of black tape or a portion of the white is painted black?

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
I gotcha. I guess I thought it meant something because quite a bit of the paper was sticking out of only one cable in each box. I don't see anything painted black on any of the white wires I don't think
Customer: replied 11 months ago.
But it looks like I can tell that one cable has the copper and white connected to another copper and white. The third cable does not have for sure indicators that makes it seem that the wires were connected previously. It is also longer than the other two cables. Dunno if that is any clue or not?
Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Also two cables Come out of one side of the box, and the other one comes out the opposite port.
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

When a white wire is used as a hot wire, per code it should have been re-identified with a piece of black electrical tape. Unfortunately many electricians forget to re-label the white when it is actually a hot wire.

One of the blacks in the ceiling is the always "live wire" which is why the light worked but not working from the dimmer. At the ceiling box with 3 cables, one of the individual white wires must have been spliced to black wire on another Romex cable.

How the cables are routed out from the box does not have any significance.

I suggest that we suspend the installation this evening and resume again tomorrow once you can obtain a meter if that is OK with you? I will be logged on the site tomorrow afternoon and evening. Your thoughts?

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
I guess I will just go with that since I can't do anything right now. I have never used this before, is there a certain way I am to get back in touch with you tomorrow?
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

No problem, just reply back to me here at the same question like you have been doing this evening. I will be notified and will get back to you.

I will be here probably around mid afternoon tomorrow as well as in the evening. I will also revise the diagram now that we know how the dimmer is wired using the white wire.

Sound like plan?

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Ok sounds good. Thank you Kevin, talk to you tomorrow
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

OK, very good.

In the meantime, have a good evening and we'll catch up with you tomorrow.........Thanks...........Kevin:)

Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

Disregard the original diagram. Here is the revised diagram illustrating the splices:

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Great thank you! :)
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

Yes, this is how the original pendant lights were connected and how the replacement lights need to be connected.

Once you obtain a meter, it will only take a few minutes to confirm which of the 3 Romex cables is the always "live" pair. Then making all of the other splices is the easy part:)

Have a good evening Julie and we'll catch up with you tomorrow...........Thanks..........Kevin:)

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Hi Kevin, hope your day has gone well. I got a meter, I am still a little confused about how I will know which wire is the 'always live' wire? I touched all the wires with my hands the other night and didn't get shocked, but maybe that's because I thinking of this in a different way?
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

Good evening.

OK, glad that you have a meter. Are you familiar with using the meter and measuring voltage?

1) You will need to turn the circuit breaker to the OFF position and then spread apart the 3 black and 3 white wires so they don't short out. One of the Romex cables will be the always "live" pair. Turn the breaker back to the ON position. Locate the 1 Romex that is live and measure from the black and white within the same cable pair until you get 120 volts. Check all 3 cables. Once you locate the "live" cable, label it with some tape and mark it as H/N with a Sharpie marker. H/N = Hot/neutral.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
When you said measure all three until you get 120v, does that mean that I locate the Romax cable that has the wires that all make my voltage tester light up bright red?
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

All 3 meaning, measure the black and white within each of the 3 separate cables. Each cable is a black/white pair. One of those cable pairs will be the hot and neutral.

Yes, place your 2 wire lead tester across a black & white of the same cable. Only 1 of the cables should turn red doing this.

Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

If you are interested, I can walk you thru this on a telephone call as it will be much faster. However, there is an additional fee Just Answer charges for telephone consultation.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
I am afraid of this little tester thing haha! But it says I just have to hold it next to the wire but don't have to touch it? Ok I am gonna turn the power back on and try to test them
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

DOH.......I hope you didn't purchase a non-contact tester? You need a tester or a voltmeter that has 2 wires or 2 probes on it.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Oh no... Yes I did. It's a voltage tester. I told them what I needed it for but I guess they misunderstood somehow :(
Customer: replied 11 months ago.
What happens if I splice the wrong black and white wire?
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

OK, we can try using it but that type of tester is not as accurate as a 2 wire type.

Out of the 3 black wires, were you able to locate 1 of the black wires that turns the tester to red?

If splicing the wrong wires, sparks will fly and the breaker will trip due to a short circuit.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
I haven't tested it yet after reading your message. Won't they all turn red if I turn the power on? Btw, what do you think of what's on this cable? Does it look like this could have been the black marking? Pic attached
Customer: replied 11 months ago.
That is the only one that made consecutive beeps on red
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

If the 3 black wires are spread apart, hopefully only 1 of them will turn the tester red. The problem with non-contact testers is that they sense voltage by magnetism and you can have a false reading from another wire.

No the black should have been taped onto a white neutral wire and not to the white cable.

OK, label that cable as circuit or H/N

Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

OK, next go to the 2 other ceiling boxes and undo the splices in each box and spread the wires apart so nothing shorts out.

Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

Now go back to the box with the 3 cables. You already have 1 cable accounted for and that is the circuit cable with the hot and neutral. Label that cable.

Then take a pick as you have 2 remaining cables in that box. Pick 1 of the white wires in either of the 2 remaining cables and splice it to the black wire that you just tested and the tester turned red or started beeping. Look at the diagram I sent you last night.

Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

Now use the tester and find 1 of the 2 remaining black wires in the same ceiling box that makes the tester go red. Turn the switch ON/OFF a few times to confirm if this is the correct black wire. The tester should alternate by sensing voltage when you turn the switch ON/OFF

If no voltage sensing, remove the white splice and splice the other white wire to the 1st black wire you tested.

Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

FYI....... here are the types of voltage tester that you should have purchased: Either one of these is a contact type of tester.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-110-220-VAC-Voltage-Tester-MS8900H/202520892

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-Digital-Multimeter-MAS830B/202353293

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Ok, one black wire makes it beep a lot. The other does not
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

Is that with the circuit black wire spliced to a white wire and another black wire is beeping that resides in a different cable? ?

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
The circuit black wire in cable #1 is spliced with a white wire in cable #2. The black wire in cable #2 is now beeping. All three wires in cable three are not spliced with anything and none are beeping red
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

OK, very good.

Can you turn the switch ON/OFF and see if that 2nd black wire (cable #2) beeps when the switch is ON and stops beeping when the switch is OFF?

Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

Yes, for now do not splice anything to cable #3

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
When it's off there is no beeping.
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

OK, awesome... you are doing great:)

Now label the black wire in cable #2 as S/L..........S/L stands for switched loop. Splice the black wire in cable #2 to the smooth wire on the pendant.

Then splice the pendant ribbed wire to the white neutral wire on cable #1 (circuit white).

Now go to the switch and turn it ON/OFF and dim it. Let me know if the 1st pendant works?

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Ok, did that, but the pendant is not turning on at all. Tried two light bulbs to make sure I didn't do something to the bulb. I wasn't supposed to splice the third cable at all or any of the grounding wires?
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

That's correct. For now leave cable #3 alone and nothing spliced to it.

OK, reverse the splice on the black wire from cable #1 and splice it to the white on cable #3

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Ok will do. Leave the others spliced and connected to the pendant?
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

Yes, just reverse the circuit black from cable # ***** over to the white on cable #3.

Yes, leave the pendant spliced as is.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Alrighty. Did that. Turn on and try again?
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

Yes, flip the switch ON/OFF and dim

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Still nothing
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

OK, either the switch is not working or the voltage sensor is picking up induction and sensing the wrong wire.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
It seems like originally one or both of the other black and whites were spliced with each other or the grounding wires were spliced together. Is that not possible? In my dumb mind I am wondering where the green(copper?) wire from the dimmer is connecting to if none of those wires are connected to each other?
Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Before when I couldn't get the dimmer switch to control the lights, at least when u turned the breaker on and off it turned the light on
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

Let's try this:

Back the dimmer out from the wall box, but do not disconnect any wires. Use the voltage sensor on the 2 wires at the dimmer switch and see if it can sense voltage with the dimmer ON/OFF.

The ground wires are not required for the switch to work, they are only for safety purposes to prevent shock. The wall switch box green is spliced to a bare copper ground wire.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
When you say dimmer on/off do you want it all the way up or all the way down?
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

Both directions...ie... up & down

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Ok and do I do that with the circuits breaker on I would gather?
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

Yes

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Ok. It's not sensing any voltage from the switch all the way on or all the way off. I did test the ceiling box cables again, cable#1 circuit black is still red, and cable #3 black (not spliced to anything) is red. Nothing from cable #2
Customer: replied 11 months ago.
I did buy another switch in case we need it
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

OK, assuming cable #1 at the ceiling box is the circuit feed, then 1 of the other 2 remaining whites is the same white wire that is spliced at the dimmer.

Did you reverse the white splice at the ceiling box and try the other cable white?

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
As in, take cable #2 white and splice it to the ribbed pendant wire instead of cable one white? If that is what you are asking, no I did not. I left all spliced the same except for reversing the cable #1 black circuit to splice it with cable #3 white
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

OK, that's fine.

This will work. Undo all of the splices at the 3 cable ceiling box. Then splice one cable at a time to the pendant. Black to smooth and white to ribbed. Turn the breaker ON/OFF to confirm that we have the correct circuit feed cable pair. One of the cable pair's will turn the pendant ON as we will by-pass the switch.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
ok should I start with the circuit cable?
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

Yes.

If that does not work, then move on to the next cable and so forth. One of them will work.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Got it
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

Cool:)

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Ok. Cable #1 black and white connected turns the light on. Do I need to do the other two?
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

Yes, just to make sure.

Swing the pendant splices over to the 2 remaining cables. Neither of them should light the pendant.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Ok neither of the other two cables light the pendant
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

OK, so it is confirmed that cable #1 is indeed the circuit feed.

Based on the previous splices when we 1st started this evening, my conclusion is that the switch is defective. We identified the correct cable feed, we know the breaker works and we know the light works when the switch is by-passed.

Would it be possible if you can obtain one of the other testers I showed in my previous Home Depot link and we can finish this tomorrow? It is 2:00 am and I need to get some sleep and awake at 7:00am. I'm on Central Time here in the Chicago area.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
I hear you, I am on central time over here in Kansas City. I can keep trying for a little bit. I bought a new switch just in case this one is no longer working. I could hook that up and try them again
Customer: replied 11 months ago.
I will let you know how it goes so u can see tomorrow
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

Sure, if you want to try swapping out the switch, I recommend that. Would still be good if you can obtain one of the other testers, preferably the volt meter.

OK, sounds like a game plan. I will be logged on here tomorrow. So just reply back then and we can continue.

Thanks............Kevin:)

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Ok, thank you Kevin
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

No problem. Talk atcha tomorrow:)

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Well. I got the first light to work. Wasn't sure what I needed to do with the other wires. BUT, when hooked up the other two lights and turned on the power, none of them will turn on now. Ugh
Customer: replied 11 months ago.
I replaced the switch and did the original configuration of cable#1 circuit black to cable #2 white, cable #1 white neutral spliced to ribbed pedant, cable #2 black to smooth pendant. All was good. It was on and switch controlled dimming. But don't know what happened after that. Seems it shorted out again when I hooked up the other two lights because now my tester isn't reading a surge in the switch cable wires when I pulled it out from the wall
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

Hey Julie......good afternoon.

1) I assume that you got the 1st light working at the box with the 3 separate cables and the other downstream lights were not connected, is that correct?

Switch was able to turn ON/OFF and dim OK? with just the (1) one light?

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Hi Kevin :)
Yes that's correct. I would turn on/off and was dimmable. Then I moved forward to connect the other two cable boxes to the pendants. But when I turned on the breaker, none of all three lights worked. And no red detection by my tester when testing the switch wires
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

Thanks for the replies.

1) Sounds like the circuit breaker has tripped once the 2 other downstream pendants were connected? Have you reset the breaker? Does it continue to trip?

2) If the 1st pendant at the box with the 3 cables was working correctly, then there must be an incorrect wiring connection for the 2 other downstream pendants.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
I turned all circuits off and on after I found out none of them were working. All other power to things works just not to the dimmer switch. I am not sure, but maybe the only thing that could have been wired incorrectly I guess would be in box 2? Because box three only has one black one white one ground. Box two has two of each. And what was supposed to happen with the remaining black and white wires and ground wires in box one after the correct connection was made?
Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

1) Take a look at the wiring diagram I sent you the other night. Here is the layout of the diagram:

A) At the box with 3 Romex cables: 1 cable is for the hot circuit feed. 2nd cable goes to the dimmer switch. 3rd cable extends from this ceiling box to the middle pendant box.

B) The middle pendant box gets it's power from one of the Romex cables that extend from the box with 3 cables. The middle pendant box has 2 Romex cables....ie........1 cable from the 3 cable box and a 2nd cable to send power down to the last pendant box.

C) The last pendant box only requires 1 Romex cable since this is the last light in the chain.

All 3 pendant lights are wired in parallel and connected to the dimmer switch.

Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

The black wire coming from the cable in the middle box, gets spliced to the same black wire as the black wire from the dimmer switch and the same smooth wire from the 1st pendant.

The white neutral coming from the cable in the middle box, gets spliced to the white neutral wire that originated from the circuit feed cable and the same ribbed wire neutral wire that you spliced the 1st pendant to. This will now provide power to the middle box.

At the middle box, splice the 2 blacks and 1 smooth together. Splice the 2 whites and the 1 ribbed together. Splice all of the bare copper grounds together.

At the last box, splice the black to the smooth and the white to the ribbed.

At all 3 pendant boxes, splice the pendant ground wire to all of the Romex bare copper grounds.

Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

Since the 1st pendant light and the dimmer worked correctly and then when connecting the middle and last pendant light caused all 3 lights not to work, this suggests incorrect wiring at the circuit feed ceiling box when attempting to connect the middle pendant light to the 3 cable box.

Expert:  Kevin replied 11 months ago.

If you have any additional questions, just let me know and I’ll be glad to answer them for you.

Otherwise, don’t forget to rate me before you log Off.

Thanks...............Kevin:)

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