Electrical Questions? Ask an Electrician Online.
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1) Since you have 2 separate wall switches, can you measure for 120 volts at the ceiling box on each of the switched loop conductors without the fan being connected?
2) Are you able to identify the 2 switched loop conductors in the ceiling box? How many ceiling box wires and the colors?
3) Temporarily back out the 2 wall switches from the wall box? How many and what are the wire colors that terminate to each switch?
4) What are the wire colors on the fan/light kit wiring harness? Black, blue, white and green or other colors?
Yes, just reply back to me when you are available and we can take it from there.........Thanks.............Kevin:)
Thanks for the replies.
1) On the switch that has 3 wires, does the switch have 1 black screw and 2 brass screws? If so, what wire color lands on the black screw? Sounds like this is a 3-way switch?
2) At the switch with 2 blacks, that is a single pole switch. Using your meter, you should have a constant 120 volts on one of the screws and 0 volts on the other screw when the switch is in the OFF position and 120 volts on the 2nd screw when the switch is in the ON position.
3) At the ceiling box, measure for 120 volts on the black wire to the ceiling white neutral. Should only measure 120 volts when one of the wall switches are in the ON position.
OK, Thanks for confirming...........both of those switches are Single Pole switches.
1) On any switch or receptacle, the wires should always be terminated to the side screw terminals and never the "back-stab" insert holes. The wires will easily get loose and eventually fail if using the "back-stab" insert holes.
Sounds like you have a loose connection at one or both of the switches?
2) Do both switches reside on the same circuit breaker? Most likely they do. There should be a small jumper wire that connects both of the switches together. This connection will be the common hot for both switches. At the common hot location measure for a constant 120 volts from hot to a ground.
2) Yes you can post a photo here if you wish. On your end you should have a paper clip to attach JPEG photos.
Thanks for the photo.
1) It is a slim possibility that the switch is defective. If you have an Ohm meter or a audible continuity tester on the meter, this can confirm if the switch is good or not. If checking for continuity, the circuit breaker must be in the OFF position and de-energized.
2) Is this the original wiring connections inside the switch box or were they altered in any way?
3) Which switch controlled the fan, left or right switch?
4) What does the switch with the red wire control?
5) At the ceiling box, can you measure 120 volts from the black ceiling wire with one of the switches in the ON position? At the ceiling box measure from black to white and from black to ground. Also measure from white to ground at the ceiling box
1) So you are saying that the right switch (red wire) used to control a ceiling fan light kit and the left switch (2 blacks) controlled the ceiling fan motor, is that correct?
2) You originally mentioned at the ceiling box there was only 1 black, 1 white and 1 green. In order to have 2 switches extending to the ceiling box, there must either be an additional black or red wire which you don't have. Each switch requires a separate switched loop conductor leaving the switch and extending to the ceiling. You only have 1 black in the ceiling box as the switched loop conductor. I'm confused:(
3) If you are measuring 93 volts at the ceiling white to ground, that means that there is a loose neutral connection somewhere. N to G voltage should always = 0 volts or very close to 0 volts.
4) Did you disconnect all 3 wires on the right hand switch when checking for continuity?