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Are you using a non contact voltage detector?
Thank you for the additional information. With that type of tester, you can't really determine the integrity of the house's neutral (white) wire connection to the fixture's neutral wire. Most likely, you have a loose neutral in the ceiling box above the chandelier.
This would be the splice where the house's white wire ties to the fixture wire.
In that case, I would check the light switch box, to see if the neutral is spliced there. If it is, verify the integrity of that splice. If it isn't, you'll need to open nearby boxes, to look for the loose neutral.
Just to make sure it isn't a bad splice within the fixture itself, it wouldn't be a bad idea to connect something else to the ceiling wires temporarily. If there's good power there, the problem is inside of the chandelier. Somewhere within that fixture, the wires have to branch out to go to each bulb socket.
OK. If you think you would use a meter in the future, rather than just for this issue, you can get one for about $20 or so at your local home improvement store. It may be easier to go that route than to take the fixture down. You could take a meter reading with the chandelier still in place.
I would be happy to post a product link for a suitable meter, if you would like me to do so.
Sure, one moment while I pull up a good choice for you.
I like this kit because you can't beat the price for what's included...
The next steps will involve some guess work, unfortunately. You will need to open nearby boxes to look for the loose connection. If you can find the right circuit breaker for the affected circuit, you can identify nearby boxes that are on the same circuit, and limit your troubleshooting to those boxes.
That's probably a pretty good place to start.
In that case, I would just keep opening nearby boxes. On any outlets that have the wires poked into the holes on the back, I would redo the connections using the side screws.
I would use the non contact tester and put it in the switch box for the nonworking fixture. Have an assistant turn each breaker off, one at a time, until you find the one for that circuit.
Then, take note of which boxes aren't live when ONLY that breaker is off.
In that case, it could be a broken wire between two boxes. That's pretty rare, but it does happen. You would need to try to trace the wire backwards from the box where you know the wire isn't functional. I believe you said that's the wall switch box. If you have electrical wholesale suppliers in your area, they may be willing to rent you a circuit tracer. Ideally, you would use one at this point to follow the wire backwards from the nonworking box, toward the previous boxes on the circuit that it goes into. If it is a broken wire, you would need to replace it between those two boxes. Those two boxes should basically straddle the break in the wire.
I think the working devices are between the breaker and the nonworking switch box. They have to be, or they wouldn't work. The power isn't making it to that box, so it can't possibly be making it beyond that box.
A tone generator for low voltage wiring should work fine. Just make sure the breaker is off, so you don't apply an overvoltage to your toning equipment.
You would have to disconnect the wires from each other at all boxes on the affected circuit. In other words, go into each box that you have determined to be on the problem circuit, and disconnect all white groups and all black groups. If you do this, I would first make a sketch of each box, detailing exactly how each wire is connected. Also, if you find any wires connected to outlets or switches via the small push-in holes on the back, I would redo the connections using the screws on the sides of the devices.
Tone each wire at each box, to see where it goes at the opposite end. I would make a sketch of the circuit based on what the toner tells me.
Once you know how the wire is routed in the walls, you will most likely be able to determine whether there is a break in the wire between two boxes. If so, that section of wire will need to be replaced. That scenario is pretty rare, but it does happen. Far more often, the opening in the circuit is in a box. So typically, you would not need to rerun any wire, nor open any drywall.
In any switch box that does not have a splice of at least 2 white wires, the power for the fixture most likely goes to the fixture first, and is then intercepted on a black/white set, routed down to the switch on white, and back up to the fixture on black. The source neutral from the circuit would be connected directly to the fixture at the ceiling box. The white at the switch should be constantly live, and the black at the switch should be a switched hot... only live when the switch is ON. This also means that there would be a splice in the fixture box of black to white, which allows the constantly hot black wire from the circuit to get down to feed the switch.
Yes, based on the symptoms the circuit is displaying, I would agree with you. Since the circuit seems to go into fixtures first, rather than switches first, I would check inside nearby light fixtures for a loose wire. You can determine which lights are on that circuit by turning all switches on and then dropping out the breaker.