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Yes it sounds like a loose neutral, and I would first isolate the circuit this way you know everywhere it goes,
The circuit is isolated. The problem is its in a sheetrock ceiling. Where should I begin?
Start at the panel. A lot of times the neutral gets lose inside of the panel. It will be the pair of the black that is connected to the breaker.
The other lights and electrical items on this circuit are working so I don't believe it is at the panel
Or you could work backwards from the switch. The problem will more than likely be inside of a junction box, but you have already proved that it is before the switch, because the voltage drops when you put a load on it.
It could be at the place right before the switch. where things are currently working. It could be one wire where there are a few wires put together, but only one is being effected.
When the voltage goes down in the light switch, does the voltage go down on the rest of the circuit as well?
So based on the fact that when a load is put on and the voltage drops, that means it is most likely NOT an issue in the highhat circuit itself, but something before the switch?
That's correct. and if the voltage goes down on the entire circuit, when the voltage goes down, then it could even just be a failing breaker.
Two rooms are lit by one circuit. One room is perfectly fine. The other is where the high hat circuit is and that is the room that went out. The computer and phone which are in the same room as the high hats have no issue
only the highhats went out
The switch tested fine
What kind of switch is it? Dimmer, or regular on off?
regular on off
What kind of light fixtures are they? Fluorescent, incandescent, LED?
screw in kind
i just tested with an incandescent bulb and the same thing happened
When you test at the switch, with the light switch in the on position and you test from neutral to hot, what reading do you get? With the bulbs in.
when the lights were out it was 120v
Then the problem is like Is said before the switch.
it could be somewhere between the breaker and up to the switch you believe?
Leave the switch in the on position, and start testing from the switch going towards the panel until you get 120 volts between the hot and neutral. The problem will either be there, or at the first one not working properly.
i do get 120V without the bulbs in. Do you mean do that test with the bulbs in?
I said with the bulbs in
ok got it
if i need additional assistance after this test, do i start from scratch again with a new electrician?
No you just log back in to your account and respond just like you are doing now. I will get an email and respond as soon as i have a chance. Please rate.
I have removed 4 fluorescent light fixtures from the