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AssuredElectrical
AssuredElectrical, Master Electrician
Category: Electrical
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Experience:  Contractor-40 Years in the ElectricalTrade
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I need help properly wiring two photo electric eyes for an

Customer Question

I need help properly wiring two photo electric eyes for an FAAC 415 gate closer with a 455D control board. I have the schematics for the control board and for the (2) two photoeyes (EMX retro-reflective photoeye) . I have had the unit for 5 years and it is in proper working order. I recently had one of the photoeyes go bad, it used both a transmitter and receiver. I decided to replace it with an EMX retro-reflective photoeye exactly like the opening photoeye to cut out down on one less moving part that could fail.

I am a general contractor, but I do not have extensive experience reading electrical diagrams with low voltage systems. The FAAC manual has a wiring diagram for using a photoeye that has BOTH a transmitter and receiver, but not for a transimitter only with a reflector.
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Electrical
Expert:  AssuredElectrical replied 1 year ago.

Welcome. My name is XXXXX XXXXX would be glad to assist.

1. Is this in place of the open or close set?

2. New Photo Eye will have to go in place of your existing Receiver eye.

There should only be 2 wires connected to the transmitter side and 4 wires at the receiver side.

So,verify what you have compared to the above.
Then make note of what color wires are connected to the receiver and transmitter eyes now and post what you find.

Receiver
Terminal 1, Terminal 2, Terminal 3, Terminal 4, Terminal 5,

Transmitter
Terminal 1, Terminal 2

We can then try to get it transposed over to your new eye.

I may be away from the PC for a bit, will get to your post just as soon as I return.


Thanks

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Greetings Tommy,


 


1. This is in place of the close set.


 


2. Unfortunately, the old wires had color coding that was not very clear.


Furthermore, the new wiring is integral to the photoeye, so I had to disconnect the wires from the terminals on the control board.


 


The following is based on existing OPENING photo eye;


Terminal 1 - Brown (+)


Terminal 2 - Blue (-)


Terminal 3 - Black (NC) WIRED TO CLOSING PHOTO EYE


Terminal 4 - Gray (NO) NOT CONNECTED


Terminal 5 - White (COM)


 


I have the sense that I am getting far out of my depth, since I am not looking at merely switching out wires on the Receiver end. If this appears to look lika a PITA type situation for you, I completely understand and will try to find a local electrician to troubleshoot it.


 


I did record where the wires from both the receiver and transmitter on the eye I am replacing were wired into the numbered terminals on the control board.


 


Thanks,


 


Mark

Expert:  AssuredElectrical replied 1 year ago.
Thanks for the information.

It is really an easy transition once we have the wiring colors.

The schematics show Terminal 1 , 2 and 3 are the contacts and 4 and 5 are for power.

So, that is not like you posted on the photo eye terminals.

Not sure what you have now?

See if the wire (Blue) on the Open eye connects to Terminal 13 on the 455D board
Expert:  AssuredElectrical replied 1 year ago.
If it is possible, can you verify all the wires connection to the 455 board from the Open photo eye?

It would allow me to know if they are different than the ones they show in the manual on the schematics.

Maybe a different style was used or they have been changed at some point?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Tommy, sorry for the delay. I will get you a diagram of all my current connections sketched out tomorrow. I took a pdf from the maniual and am in the process of drawing out the connections. Thanks for your willingness to take this on.

Here is a link for the photo eye diagram; http://www.emxinc.com/manuals/nir_instructions.pdf

As I looked at the FAAC 455d diagram, the wiring was different, since these are photo reflective and do not require a transmitter, as you know.

Thanks,

I will try hard to get you a drawling ASAP. I can wait for answers when you get time, so please don't consider my question/fix an emergency.

Thank you,

Mark
Expert:  AssuredElectrical replied 1 year ago.
Thanks for the reply and the link.

I did have the new photo eye and the opener with the 455D board installation drawing as well.
But always best to be sure.

Will await your sketch of the existing situation and we should be able to get it changed over to the new one.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Here is a crude attempt at a diagram of the hookup with the old photo eyes. The magenta wires are actually white.


 


I apologize, but I haven't been able to attach the file correctly. Is there an email address I can send it to?

Expert:  AssuredElectrical replied 1 year ago.
Try this:
Go to tinypic.com

Click the Browse button and get the file from your PC.
Upload the file there and they will give you a link to access the file.

Post that link here from URL for E-Mail & IM and then I can get to it.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Access Denied

You don't have permission to access


"http://www.justanswer.com/electrical/7u5c2-need-help-properly-wiring-two-photo-electric-eyes.html" on this server.


Reference #18.44ab3c41.1372337572.76b5f16

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

http://i39.tinypic.com/2hqdkzt.jpg

Expert:  AssuredElectrical replied 1 year ago.
Ok, got it.
Give me a little time to look it over, lots of wires to be sure what I am looking at and where they all go.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Great. Thank you. No rush.

Expert:  AssuredElectrical replied 1 year ago.
One quick one.

The black wire from the closing eye connects to the open eye?
Which terminal?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

I believe it was terminal 3.

Expert:  AssuredElectrical replied 1 year ago.
Ok, let me get it together shortly.
Thanks
Expert:  AssuredElectrical replied 1 year ago.

Ok, just need to be sure which wire goes to each terminal on the board since they are the same colors.

TAPE the 2 wires that wen to the Transmitter side of the old eye setup so they will not touch anything. Those are no longer needed.


They still do not have our system working for posting pictures here, my apologies.
Click the link and then when you see the picture, click it, then in the left corner there is a link "Raw Image". Click that and you can get an enlarged picture.

Let me know on anything needed clarification.

CLICK HERE for the diagram

Expert:  AssuredElectrical replied 1 year ago.
I added this, but think you read my post before I got it added.
So adding once more.

TAPE the 2 wires that went to the Transmitter side of the old eye setup so they will not touch anything. Those are no longer needed.
Expert:  AssuredElectrical replied 1 year ago.
Another question.

Does the Open side work properly with the photo eye it has?

The wiring on it seem a little odd. I see the stop button in the loop but the loose wire on the eye seems odd since there should be a 4th wire to the board.
Not sure what is going on there?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Let me test everything and I will report back.
Expert:  AssuredElectrical replied 1 year ago.
ok, thanks
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Opening photo eye-- both lights are on, both go off when the beam is blocked. It is not triggering the gate to open.The grey wire (4?)on the opening eye is not hooked up to anything.Closing photo eye--only the yellow led is on. When I block the signal the red led comes on and the yellow goes off. The reflector is properly aligned as best I can tell. I tested it and it appears to be triggering the gate properly when I obstruct the beam. The stops on the control arm are not working properly. It is going beyond 90 degrees. The LED lights on the control board are lit up properly with three horizontal lines on the left led display.I am at the control panel now, so I can make changes in real time if you like.
Expert:  AssuredElectrical replied 1 year ago.

Think I am missing something?

The open eye keeps the gate from opening when a car is present in the path of the gate.

The close keeps the gate from closing on a car in the path.

The RED led on the new eye, instructions state is ON when it is aligned.

 

Will be away from the PC for a short while, thanks

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Just to clarify, the eye that is 6 inches outside the front of the gate is the original (opening) eye. It does not have the grey wire hooked up to anything.

The closing (new) eye is hooked up per your sketch and is connected to terminal 16 along with the common (white) from the opening eye.

Does it matter that there is a jumper from 13 to 16, but there is no jumper from 12 to another terminal?

If I put a reflector 4 inches in front of the closing eye, I still don't get the red light to come on. I must be missing something?
Expert:  AssuredElectrical replied 1 year ago.

Ok, lets go one step at a time and clear everything up so we do not get side tracked.

1. There should be an eye, that is approx 6 inches in front of the END of the gate when the gate is OPEN.
That is the Open photo eye.
If it sees someone too close to the gate, it will NOT allow the gate to open.

 

It and the close eye are safety eyes, not opening and closing eyes.

2. Disconnect all wires on the new eye EXCEPT for the brown and blue.
Those are power.
The red led will still work just will not do anything.
Align with the reflector about 1 foot in front, to get the RED LED "ON".
Then slide your hand in front to see if it goes OFF.
You have a factory reflector that came with the eye, correct?

Lets start with those and will go to the next as we clear up issues.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Apologies,


 


Thank you for the clarification on the safety vs closing/opening.


 


I sent you the manual for the existing photoeye and I thought that the new one was exactly the same; it is not. It has the same case, but it looks like the LEDs work differently. I just found it out by looking at the fine print on the housing.


 


Here it is;


http://i43.tinypic.com/96gkd0.jpg


http://i44.tinypic.com/x44vwz.jpg


http://i39.tinypic.com/2r74hp3.jpg


http://i44.tinypic.com/51zne0.jpg

Expert:  AssuredElectrical replied 1 year ago.

Ok, that one is opposite of the first one.

So, it sounds like it working properly.

When you have it aligned, the Yellow LED is on.
When something is between the eye and reflector, the RED comes on and the yellow is off.

So, does it work properly?

It looks like we may have to swap the wires but the power is the same. So you can test it for operation?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Correct. So it was works properly as far as the lights go and alignment. It does not the gate to reverse as it should.


 


I can test it for operation.


 


 

Expert:  AssuredElectrical replied 1 year ago.
Ok, is it possible to get the wires from the new photo eye direct to the board?
Not going to the open eye?

Right now the one wire comes from the open to the close, but I do not know where that connects on the board.

If you can wire directly to the board, then the White to 15 and the gray to 12 on the board.

If you cannot go direct, then need to look at where that black wire connects on the open eye unit. See if it connects to another wire and where it goes.
We have to know all points until it gets to the board.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Yes. I can wire directly to the board. The new photo eye is working correctly. It both detects and causes gate to go to the open position when an obstruction is detected. It is no longer connected to the other photoeye.

There are still two problems though;

1. The open eye is not reversing the gate when it detects an obstruction. The LEDs are functioning and I can hear it sending a signal (click) when the path of the beam is broken.

2. The opening arm is not triggering the stops. Motor keeps running when it has gone past either stop.
Expert:  AssuredElectrical replied 1 year ago.
Ok, got the new eye working, that is what we wanted originally.

Now, did this gate ever work? Looking at the jumpers, it looks like someone has bypassed the safeties.

The one wire off the open eye is another indicator.

Possibly the open eye is no good?

Trying to understand the history of this since there is more than just a dead close photo eye that needed changing.

Once I have some history maybe we can get any other issues cleared up.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Yes, the gate was working fine up until the photoeye went bad last week.


 


It is possible that when I took off the old photoeye, that I moved a wire.


 


The gate is six years old. There was a repair on it about a year and a half ago by a factory authorized service center. There was an ice storm and a couple wires became damaged on the opener. The stops were adjusted and everything was tested after. I have had no problems since until last week.


 


I do not know what specifically was done inside the control panel. I looked at the notes and they stated that stops were adjusted as well as photo eyes back in 2009.


 


Maybe if you can verify the correct layout of the wires on the open photo eye, I can see if I missed something.


 


I looked at the schematic and did not see anything mentioning the jumpers in the FAAC manual.


 


 

Expert:  AssuredElectrical replied 1 year ago.
Interesting, thanks.

See the jumpers from 16 to 13 and from 13 to 11.

That bypasses the open safety so the open eye could not work.
With the one wire off the open that isnt wired anywhere is an indication that it failed and that is why the bypassing.
All that was done by someone, is the reason for asking.

It looks like that loose wire on the open eye should connect to terminal 13 and the jumpers removed.

From your schematic, the open gets power on that brown and pink, then the blue and white are the contacts .

I do not have the model for the open eye, so I cannot give 100% on the wires, but it sure looks like what should be done.

The black that went from the open to the close eye, does it connect to the pink or blue also at the open eye?
Expert:  AssuredElectrical replied 1 year ago.
One other item, do you have any type of emergency stop button anywhere that was connected?

If not, we would need to have a jumper from 16 to 11 .
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
No emergency stop button.
Expert:  AssuredElectrical replied 1 year ago.
Ok, thanks.

Then a jumper from 16 to 11 would need to be in place for no stop button.

But the one from 16 to 13 is bypassing the open eye.

So, if the eye does work, you would remove the jumper, connect the loose wire from the open eye to 13 and it should stop the gate when interrupted.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I will try and see if that does it and get back to you.
Expert:  AssuredElectrical replied 1 year ago.
Ok, thanks.
See if it has any information on the sides of the transmitter or receiver maybe to verify that the white wire is off the normally closed side of the relay?

I am going by where the other wires connect to the board and since only one wire is loose, it is the one for terminal 13.

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