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Hello .. Rich here Yes if you could post a picture of the old and new switches .. Please
and please tell me of any labels or markings that migt be near the terminals .. or colors of the attached wires
I’m trying to install a new switch into a light cord. However, when I got the new switch I found that it doesn’t match the old one – so I can’t just copy the wiring. I need to know how to wire the new switch.
OK ,, help me out a little bit .... looking at the new switch .. am I seeing two places for the wires to set into and be set screwed , labelled 1, 2 ?
am I seeing on the old switch that the white wire essentially bypasses the switch and the two collored wires are connected to the terminals of the switch ?
There are 6 small screws inside the new switch. The two side-by-side sets are labeled 1 and 2. The individual set (on the right isn't labeled. Each set has two small screws in it.
The old switch has a white wire and a green wire that run straight through and aren't connected. The black wire is connected to a screw on each end.
Yes that sounds right .. so then the same tyhing will be done on tyhe new switch thye white and green will pass thru and thye two blacks will be inserted into tyhe internal connectors in the new switych and secured
dam fat fingers please excuse my hurried typing
There's no room to pass the wires through. ? And there are 6 connectors. ?
hmm .. how did we get 6 conductors ... oh ok black white green 2 times ... sometmes in a line switch the white and green are not cut but pass thru as is
Two screws each in terminal 1 and 2. And two screws in the terminal on the right.
yes I see that there is no room for the white and green to pass inside the switch .. is this your only option for a replacement ... the old switch looks like the typical zip cord switch , oval in shape , with a rocker type toggle on one side .. does that pretty much describe it ??
The right terminal maybe for strain relief or grounding????? It's not connected to anything (that I can tell).
This is the switch provided by the manufacturer
I mam thinking that you would do better with a different switch ,.. strain relief in these switches is usually accomplished when thje two halfs of thje case are sandwiched tgether and ghrab the wires
ya .. sometimes the manufacturer is confused
this looks like a plastic housing on the switch . typical .. so it does not need grounding
this is the correct switch. I've seen it in use by others who have the same light cords.
what is the amperage or wattage of this fixture
The fixture uses a maximum of 300 watts.
hmm .. then there must be a way ... when would you be able to steal a look at the other applications lol
300 watts ,.. then you could use any readilly available switch intended for a lamp cord .. available at most building supply or lighting supply store
I wish I could open up another one and just copy. Not an option though.
not that it would be entirely correct .. but funtionally it looks like a better choice to me .... or find one like this that is installed and have a look inside it
sorry I cannot take another apart either I am making these suggestions to get your light opperating then maybe some time you can figure out the manufacturers replacement option
I can buy new cords - $50 each. OR send these in for repair. I was just hoping to avoid that. Too bad. you have no thoughts about which wires connect where in the new switch?
the two black wires are the ones that need to be connected across the switch .. looks to me like that would be ! and 2 .. if there is a thru terminal for the white wire then I guess I am not seeing it
Thanks for trying.
it looks like there is a smaller connecting block in between 1 and 2 .. maybe for the white .. I cannot make out where the switching part of tyhe switch actually is
why rate me poorly .. I believe I put a decent amount of effort trying to help you .. I am sorry that my answers were not what you were anticipating