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I uploaded tiny pics, uploaded the pictures and when I try to copy and paste nothing !! so here they are by copying
http://tinypic.com/r/v8letv/5 and for how it looks now
hope this works, taking way longer than anticipated.rick
Thanks, XXXXX XXXXX just put wire nuts on the 2 wires I don't use or are they not hot ?
Does the black slashed black make sense to the cap ? It was that way when l bought it.
When I bought it there were loose wires and a capacitor that had wires coming from the motor housing and terminating with solderless fastons under the taped on capacitor cover, one is black with white slashes and the other is black, spliced with a white piece of heavier gauge wire.
When I got it, the bottom plate that covers the wiring was missing, along with the cord. Coming out from the motor housing ( this is a buffer so the motor is attached to a cast iron base) , a black and a black slashed white that went into the capacitor case ( capacitor is permanently part of a plastic case) then a white, Black, red, yellow and brown. The diagram on the motor covers the voltage selection wire.
Does the black and black slashed to the capacitor follow normal wiring practices ?
Can I use a meter to determine if the capacitor wiring, using those 2 wires is correct ? ( ie could someone have switched the 2 blacks )
If the capacitor was wired with those 2, then they should stay on the capacitor.On a capacitor using 2 wires, it makes no difference which wire connects to which post on the capacitor.It is a booster and used for either starting the motor or for running the motor, either will not matter.Wiring is done internally, so if those are the 2 wires that are loose, should not be an issue.Normally the wiring on the label will show caps in the line and where they connect also, but I do not see it as a problem if those are the only 2 wires left.As for if the capacitor is good, you need a multi meter with a cap setting to measure it and see if it is good.Or any heating/air conditioning contractor has the meter if you know one?
Plugged it in and tripped a breaker, so either the motor had a previous fault and that is why is was at the swap meet or the switch is defective.
thanks for all your assistance
The switch is a DPDT, so i wired the two wire groups from the motor to the terminals on one side and the hot wire from the line to the center terminals.
I also checked that the cord set I used was wired correctly.
There is a possibility the motor was bad when I bought it and the reason the cord and bottom plate had been removed is someone took them when removed from service and the guy I bought it from was selling something he removed from the scrap pile
That is how I did it. I had the one power line ( black) from the cord attached to both center terminals. I wired each of the assembled pairs( red yellow) and (brown black) from the motor to an outer terminals on one side and then connected the cord white to the motor white and attached the cord green to the frame. The capacitor was left wired as received.
Plugging it in trips the breaker.
Think it was in the way I tried to explain.
I talked to a maintenance guy and he said to attach the yellow and red to the power white, and tape off the motor white. Then connect the brown black combo to the cord black thru the switch. Motor works !!! When I asked him why the motor white was taped off and not used, he said that's how it works.
Thanks again for your help !