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Hello. Thank you for choosing Just Answer! My name isXXXXX am here to help you with all your electrical needs. Have you checked the outlet for any loose connections?
Is this a dedicated homerun or is there other loads connected to the circuit? You can eliminate these by simply plugging it in somewhere else. Also, the start or run capacitor could possibly be compromised, a very common problem with compressors. Motor windings could also be bad....there are a few things, but lets start first by eliminating any outlet issues. Also check the cord on the compressor for any frayed wiring or a broken prong.
Hi, This is a dedicated one outlet socket just for the compressor. When I flip the switch on the unit I can tell it is drawing a lot from the slight flicker of the other lights in garage. The cord/plug is in great shape.
Hi. I found this number on the tag below the motor.NNN-NN-NNNN Thanks
Looking at the manual, the compressor motor does not use a capacitor for starting.
But. please look on the motor or in any box you may see for a round or oval black or aluminum can looking item to be sure.
It is always possible it is left off the parts diagram because the motor is supplied by a 3rd party.
If you find one, look at it, it is stamped on the side with numbers and letters
Example: ?? UF and ?? voltage
There are a few possibilities here to explore:Start with item #2, then #3 to see if it helps the situation.1. The start windings themselves could be bad and not allowing the compressor to come up to speed and switch over to the run windings.2. Manual requires that a 15 amp dedicated receptacle be used and in many cases a 20 amp is needed to overcome any voltage losses due to the wiring.A washer normally has a 20 am dedicated circuit and sometimes the garage or basement may have one to try.No drop cords to be used on the compressor, unless they are short and #12 gauge.Use a lamp and be sure that the receptacle being used, is a 20 amp circuit by turning the breaker off to check and nothing else is on that circuit.3. The check valve is stuck and will not allow any air to pass into the tank from the compressor.This will basically stall the motor.Need to perform maintenance on the check valveSee Page 18 of the manual posted below for that procedure.
While you have the hose disconnected and check valve out for maintenance, you can try to start the compressor for a quick test also to see if the situation changes.CLICK HERE for manualCheck Valve if neededSee how it goes and post results after.
Let me double check something here also.You are stating 7HP?Did you change the motor on this air compressor?Manual sure does not reflect that for the Model number.
Look end of your motor and see if it has has a cap on the end that can be removed to find a capacitor
Our system is not allowing pictures at the moment, so I will try to add one later.
Hi, I opened the drain and released all of the pressure and tried to start it. The same turns only a couple of very slow revs and trips the dedicated one outlet breaker. I took off a two screw cover on the side of the motor and it has a round ( automobile flasher ) looking unit in there. Under the end cover there are a set of points, spring loaded gismo on the end of the motor shaft, and a shallow round black pod. I know this is not the techinal terms. Thanks The sticker sayes thats its 7hp but I don't know how they rate these because the whole motor /compressor is smaller than a 2 hp motor on my other compressor that I have had
It is a 20 amp breaker that tripped. The motor is original low hours of use. The pump and motor are one unit. I will get the measurments and # XXXXX the capacitor and get back. Thanks
Hi, I removed the check valve and tried it again, same thing. I have the number off of the capacitor. 30UF+- 6% 370VACB50/60Hz Then on another line 40/070/21 p2 SH Last line 325P306H37M30N4X It measures 1 3/4 Dia X 3" long. I hope this helps. Thank You