A moment to read your enquiry please
This is a two part answer.
#1 You may use a main lug only panel as the panel is already protected by a 2 pole breaker.
#2 the maximum size of this breaker will depend on your present wire size feeding this sub-panel and the distance.
#1 - I wasn't sure if it was a living space if it had to have a main breaker in the building ?
I think at the time you convert to a living space you will need a second meter anyway and a new service. This will depend on your Supply company and local codes
For now you do not need it.
Also your present arrangement of one 50 feeding two 50's is funky to say the least.
If I were you at present I would do the minimal work needed.
is it safe ?? an overload should just trip the breaker in the house ??
Yes it is safe provided all wire sizes are correct and the person that wired this originally obviously didn't know the correct way to do things so I strongly advise checking these wire sizes out.
If you tell me the distances I will tell you minimum wire size and/or max. breaker sizees
I am not going to get a second meter/service - this will be a minimally used building for overflow guests
Then when ready I would simply run a new sub-panel feed to the garage
and I would abanddone the present one
distance is 50 feet - wire size is # XXXXX -this wire is alredy to the garage
OK but I need 3 distances here
home to JB, JB to garage, JB to RV
#6 is the correct size for 50 amps max (so far)
#6 COPPER that is.
no room in panel box to add any more circuits - home to jb -30ft - jb to garage - 50 ft - jb to rv - 25ft
All distances are fine
Do you know the size of wire feeding the JB and RV ?
so if building is living space does it need main breaker in building or will main lug box be acceptable ? It is all #6 wire
In this situation it needs a main breaker, however this breaker does not need to match the size of the feed breaker as it will simply be used as a Fire DEPARTMENT DISCONNECT.
Your max breaker sizes are as you already have.
You may installa 100 amp in your new panel as you will still only obtain 50 amps max
However there is a simpl way to fit a 50 amp too.
That is a 50 amp feed breaker to a main lug panel
ok - i will go with whichever I can find easiest and cheapest - 100 amp panels are easy to come by and fairly cheap
OK I agree.
and it will serve my purpose - thank you - really wasn't sure if I needed the main breaker in a living space but it makes sense
If not just ask for a "retention kit" cost a few dollars and you can use any size breaker you choose to fit at the top of the buss for a main disconnect. 50 amp being preferable here so as not to confuse people.
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that is true - I will do that if I can find it easy enough - not easy to find good help at home depot
Yes it is actually I'll explain;
Call Home Depot and ask when their Master Electrician is on duty, nearly every HD has one
If they don't simply try another HD
if you don't get to him don't accept anyone eslses advice I have heard of some crazy things being told there
ok - i will try that - I know one that has a master plumber - he has been very helpful - never found any one competent in the electrical dept yet though
make a few calls
Thank you. Good luck. When it does come time to upgrade the garage to 100 amps please ask my advice first.
Perhaps even install the inexpensive 2" PVC conduit this summer when it is warm
Just go straight from present main panel location to garage
Use no more than 2 90 degree bens if possible.
I really don't think I need that much in that building - and as I said - no room in the main panel box
4 90's is the MAX but that would be a bear to pull the wires after
Well remember you don't really have 50 amps
you have 50 less what the RV is using
You could easily add a sub-panel to the side of the main panel too.
Total material costs about $50
I just need a couple light circuits and outlet cicuits - there will be minimal use of this building -
THEN YOU ARE FINE.
I was just trying to prevent you wasting money
ok - thanks
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Now should work.
I mean NOW (I had it locked out)