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You can use the "Biggest Little Kiln" on a dryer Outlet, because the wire to your dryer outlet is AWG #10, which is rated for 30 amps. However, one thing to keep in mind is that dryer outlets can be 3 or 4 wire. If your kiln requires a neutral, and your dryer currently only has 3 wires feeding it, that could be a problem.

If you want to use the Skutt kiln, it would need to be on your range outlet, not the dryer outlet. This is because the wire for the dryer is not rated high enough to be connected to a 40 amp breaker. As for the amperage ratings for the two kilns... when two amperage ratings are that close, they are essentially the same. If you are using this in a house, you won't have 208 volts available. It will be connected to 240 volts. That means the Skutt will draw 27.8 amps, and the BLK will draw 28 amps. That's only a difference of .2 amps, which is negligible.

If the BLK does indeed draw 28 amps, it would be pushing it to connect it to a 30 amp breaker. Ideally, you only want to load a breaker to 80% of its rated capacity. That would mean a 30 amp circuit should not be loaded to more than 24 amps.

Basically, the difference in overcurrent protection (breaker) requirements is due to one manufacturer upsizing the circuit to keep from tripping the breaker. But you can't go up from a 30 amp breaker to a 40 amp breaker without also upsizing the wire to #8.

The wire for your range is #6, which is one size larger than #8. It will easily handle either kiln. If you need an extension cord in order to use the range outlet, 20 feet is not a long enough distance to create a substantial Voltage drop.

Yes. The adapter most likely eliminates the neutral wire. I like the BLK better.

The kiln probably onle needs two hots and a ground, so 3 wires total.

That is an odd size main. Here in the US, there are still some older homes with 60 amp services. How old is your house?

That makes sense then. My house had a 60 amp service when originally built, in the 60's. You will be fine using the kiln at the same times you would be using your dryer, as the electricity doesn't know or care what the load is. As far as the wires and breakers are concerned, running the kiln is the same as running the dryer. But you wouldn't be able to run the dryer and the kiln at the same time. The reason I like the BLK better is because I don't like the idea of feeding a load that calls for a 40 amp breaker with a circuit that is protected by a 50 amp breaker. The 40 amp breaker would trip at a lower amperage draw, which is safer. You can ask me as many questions as you like, it's not a problem at all. I'm here to help.

It could, but the manufacturer seems to think it won't. I doubt it really draws 28 amps. It's probably a little less than that, or they would have upsized the circuit. Since your range circuit is protected by a 40 amp breaker, that opens up the option of using the other kiln on the range circuit. But whoever told you not to replace the plug on the Skutt is absolutely right. Doing that could very well cause problems.

Please stand by while I check out that link...

Yes, that will be fine, since both ends of the cord are rated for the same voltage and amperage. The function of the adaptor is to eliminate the neutral wire at the 4 wire dryer plug. You could go either way, as far as using the adaptor or changing the plug on the kiln. One thing to consider is changing the plug could potentially void the warranty. You would have to check with the manufacturer to find out.

Most electrical contractors would charge you for one hour of labor. Here in the states, that's around $70. My employer tacks a $15 trip charge onto every service call, due to high gasoline prices. The cost of the plug would be around $10 after they mark it up. You can buy one for less than half that at a home improvement store. So you are looking at a total of approximately $100 if the electrician supplies the plug. If you can find a retired or unemployed electrician, it will likely cost much less than hiring a contractor.

Yes, but it could be somewhat expensive. What was the cost of the premade adaptor?

That's pretty steep. If you bought the parts, it would cost you about $20 or so, and I could tell you how to do it.

Yes, much less expensive than buying a premade part.

OK, you can come back here at any time, and I'll tell you how to proceed. If you want me to answer any future questions for you, you will need to put "For Jason" in the subject line. Otherwise, any other electrical expert can take the question.