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Mike, Master Electrician
Category: Electrical
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Experience:  Licensed Master Electrician - OnQ Certified Data Voice Audio Video Installer
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How to wire intermatic pool pump timer for 120V pool pump motor.

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How to wire intermatic pool pump timer for 120V pool pump motor. I have 1 white wire, 1 black wire, and one "bare" wire coming from breaker box, and I have 1 green wire (ground),
1 blue wire, and one white wire going to pool pump motor. My timer has 4 horizontal
connection points, labeled (from left to right) line 1, line 2, load 1, and load 2 respectively. There is also a connection screw above line 1 that is labeled "clock".
What goes where??
Chat Conversation Started
Mike :

Hi. Thanks for posting your question on JustAnswer...

Mike :

Do you have the model# XXXXX your timer?

JACUSTOMER-0xsqma7m- :

Dayton model 2E022

Mike :

Hmmm... That model isn't listed. Any other part#'s?

Mike :

Found it... just a moment.

Mike :

Ok... your "line" black connects to the line 1

Mike :

"line" white and "load" white connect to clock.

JACUSTOMER-0xsqma7m- :

the back of the unit says intermatic model #wg-430-3 / 60c, which I'm guessing has to do with

Mike :

And then "load" black connects to "load" 1

Mike :

And your "line" is the wire coming from the breaker. "Load" is the wire going to the pump.

Mike :

Make sense?

Mike :

Looks like you're having a hard time using the chat. I'll close it for now...

Mike :

...and we can continue via Q&A if need to ask any follow-up questions.

Customer: replied 6 years ago.


In this case, would "load" black actually be "load" blue, as there is no black wire going

to the pool pump motor, only blue, green, and white? Also, there are 2 small white wires that came already attached to the unit. Ones goes from the the "clock" terminal to the one side of the clock mechanism and the other one goes from the clock mechanism to

the terminal labeled "line 1" if that makes a difference...

Yes, you're right... load black would be load blue. Sorry about the confusion there. I understand exactly what you're talking about in regard to the two white wires and that's exactly as it should be. Those are the wires powering the actual clock motor. No need to worry about those.

Edited by Mike on 9/4/2010 at 2:50 PM EST
Customer: replied 6 years ago.


I've got it all hooked up and its running. I have set it so that it should turn itself off in the next 5 minutes or so. If it does, I'll accept your answer and we're good to go!


Thanks for the help...



Well, if it doesn't turn off, that has nothing to do with what I've helped you with so please don't hold me hostage over other potential issues. You asked how to wire it and I've answered that. Now, if you have another problem, I'll be glad to help, but you need to let me know. Thanks!
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
OK, How would I be able to test the timer to make sure its not mal-functioning? I have already separated it from the timer unit. It has 2 white wires coming out of it.
Well, what is the problem?
Customer: replied 6 years ago.

I wired everything up as you told me I should, and the pool pump works great, but the timer that turns the unit off/on doesn't seem to be working. I have removed the clock mechanism from the timer unit and was wondering if there is a way to test the clock to see if that's the problem. The timer unit has 2 white wires coming out of it. Can I hook it

up directly to, let's say a wall outlet using an old lamp cord with a plug and if the gears move, I know the timer is working. If the gears don't move, maybe the clock mechanism is burned out and I need to replace it and not the whole timer unit. Either way, I will pay you for your time and effort in this matter.

No need to do all that. You're making it more difficult than it has to be... the clock is already wired directly to a power source when it's installed inside the box. Those two white wires are connected directly to the "neutral" and "power" terminals in the timer panel, remember? One white wire from the timer is connect to the same terminal the two white wires from your "line" and "load" are connected to. Those are all neutrals. The other white wire from the timer connects to the "Line 1" terminal. This is the same terminal your black wire from the panel connects to. Your pump is working, so you know that you have power going through. If the clock is working, make sure you have the trippers installed correctly. But you're already connected directly to power there. If it's not working, you have a bad timer... but I suspect that maybe you don't have a tripper on right or you're not giving it enough time. It's analog, so it may take several minutes longer than when it appears that it should have tripped, visually.

Edited by Mike on 9/4/2010 at 3:40 PM EST
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Something else I just noticed. The actual timer clock that has the 2 white wires coming out of it, does not seem to make a complete circuit. One of the white wires is attached to the terminal marked "line 1". The other white wire is attached to the terminal above "line 1" marked "clock", but I notice the terminal marked "clock" doesn't seem to be attached to anything other than the actual body of the timer unit. Shouldn't it be wired in somewhere to make a complete circuit??
The terminal labeled "clock" IS wired in. Your neutrals are connected to it. That's via my instructions above. All neutrals come together on the "clock" terminal (line neutral, load neutral, and clock neutral). That allows all three to make a complete circuit. Line 1 from the breaker to neutral... pump to neutral... clock to neutral.

Edited by Mike on 9/4/2010 at 3:47 PM EST
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Customer: replied 6 years ago.
OK, I tested the clock on this timer unit and it didn't move when I gave it the juice. I have another timer that is almost identical to the one I'm trying to install. It has a model # XXXXX into it of E10694 but it has no brand name on it. When I tested the clock motor on this one, it ran fine. The only differnce in this model is that it only has 3 places where you can hook wires up to it. From left to right, one has no designation at all, and one of the clock wires is attached to it, the next one is designated "1", and has the 2nd clock wire attached to it,and the 3rd is "2". Seeing how the clock motor actually works on this one, how would I wire it in? I don't see any place to hook the grd wire up to it, but I am assuming anywhere on the body of the unit would do.
Ok, on this one... treat the the terminal with no label as the "clock" terminal. So all neutrals would terminate there. Then connect your "line" black to "1" and the "load" blue to "2". Regarding the grounding, if the box is plastic it is not grounded. If it is metal, then your assumption is correct: drill and tap a hole in the metal casing and you can ground it there.

Edited by Mike on 9/4/2010 at 4:35 PM EST

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