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I do not have a voltage meter, but by observing the pump and tripping the pressure control with the toggle lever, I know that there is easily enough voltage on the load side as the pump does pump water and since you said I could only have as results 0 volts or 240 volts. As to whether or not there is 240 volts of power from the breaker all of the time there has to be as the breaker does not trip.
That being said, the pressure control does have two boxes consisting of the box directly wired to the breaker (which is also where I disconnect the power when I bleed down the pressure to get a true pressure reading of the air pressure) and a second box located on top of the water pipe that has the toggle switch and the springs etc. At what point the voltage is severed, I would say has to be in the first box off of the breaker, but I don't know the function of this box other than a guess that it is the control to the entire system. Could it be that it is bad, or is that what you are trying to determine? How does it cut the power to the pump but the toggle lever mechanism does not open up.
When was the last reply from me that you received? I now seem to be missing the one I received from you to which I replied back about 1 hour ago or more. Are we still working on this?
There is no disconnect at the well. The pressure tank is in the basement near my 150 amp electrical service box. The box that I called directly wired to the breaker, but it actually goes into a junction box and then to both a 1/2 hp service box Franklin Electric Co, Inc. Model(NNN) NNN-NNNN(the first box), and to the pressure switch.
When I was looking inside the 1/2 hp service box I noticed that one of the five male prongs on the lid was bent down so that it would not be able to fit into the female recepticle. I'm wondering if this may have been the whole problem I was trying to figure out. The thing is water was still being pumped since I first noticed a problem three days ago. One other thing is that when I finally did notice the problem the first thing I did was pull the cover on the 1/2 hp service box and then put the cover back on as I thought the lid may have come loose and was not making a full connection electrically. That first time putting the lid back on may have been when I bent the one prong. Either way when I put the lid back on it did the same thing.
The answers to your questions: I will need to purchase a voltage meter before I can answer that question. I do have a bladder tank and the valve pressure with no water in the bladder is 21 lbs.
Let me know if you have any ideas about what I found with the prong. Of the five prongs the one that was bend down was the outside one on the right side when looking at the inside of the lid, where a 1 1/2" x 4" cylinder and a GE 3ARR3J9V4 Relay are mounted above the horizontal line of five prongs.
I think we're getting closer to knowing what I have here. I just watched my pressure tank fill up. The pressure switch kept the circuit closed until the tank was full, but the motor control box shut the pump off quite a few times with the circuit closed. When the tank was finally full, at 54 psi, then the pressure switch opened the circuit. When the tank gets down to below 30 psi then the switch is closed to fill the tank.
This is the order of the circuit from the breaker: first to jct box, then to pressure switch, then to motor control box and then to the motor in the well. That means that the three wires to the motor would come from the motor control box. The pressure switch has two wires in from the breaker via the jct box and two wires to the motor control box. When the pump gets the tank filled to 40 psi is when the motor control box starts to stop the pump and fills it to 54 psi by constantly turning the motor on and off with the circuit closed during that entire time. The pump seems to run smoothly up to 40 psi.