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Thanks for the answer.
Can I use a 200amp breaker panel for my subpanel instead of a lug panel?
Individual breakers (100amps) are more expensive when you buy them individually.
In this way I will have a shut off at the subpanel, and the line from the main to the sub will be protected by the main breaker. Service panels that come with a breaker installed are reasonable priced when compare with add on breakers.Can you please tell me what is the wire size and galvanized pipe size for the main supply entrance form DWP to the 200amp meter socket. I would like to use cooper.Thank you.
The inspector came and he needs a couple things to be corrected. He wrote "no shouldered fittings allowed". I used a 2 inch chase bushing to transition between the inside of the panel to an LB box. His arguments are as followed: the bushing is not insulated and the bushing does not "grabs" to the metal wall to provide an ground. He told me to use a 2 inch close nipple with nuts and to use an plastic insulating bushing at the end. My problem is that nipples sold at electrical supplies are tapered. They go so far into the LB and I'm going to end up with a fitting protruding more than a inch inside my panel. I can buy a liner that is designed to fit the chase bushing and add a nut in between the shouder of the bushing and the panel wall. The nut will give the "bite" into the metal wall. Everybody a talked to said a chase bushing is the right choice and don't understand the inspector recomendation. The other item is "provide load calculation and line diagram" I have an idea but I'm not sure about the format to be used. I need help with these two items Thank you.
I can not see the sheet to itemized my electrical consumption.
Please try again.
Here are the pictures.
Picture of the subpanel.
Picture of the bushing connecting the panel to the LB box (this is what the inspector saw)
Picture of the same bushing to which I have added a nut and insulating liner just to see if you feel that may be a solution.
I'm working on the load calculation sheet. I'll send the information as soon as I finish.
2200 square feet
4 small apliances
1 washer and dryer (gas) on the same branch
volt x amps
Sorry, I do have a garbage disposal. I can't see the UL tag but I can tell you that is 120V and 3/4 HP. The water heater is gas.
The bushing without the locknut and liner is how the inspector red flagged it.
I installed those after he was here. Still I'm not sure if he will consider that as a corrective action.
Thank you for the complement on my work.
What is the wire size for the ground conductor?
Is it ok to use bare wire?. No all supply houses carry heavy gage green wire.
The inspector will be back tomorrow. I'll let you know how it went.
Thanks again for your help.
What gauge of wire should I use?
The inspector aproved my project. He nedded a couple extra days to verify if it was ok to have a 200 amp breaker in the main panel feeding a 200 amp subpanel. The specs in the panel label allows for this configuration but still he was not sure. He called a couple days later and said everything looks good.
I think that using a somewhat unconventional design was the cause for things moving a bit slower comparing to an standard residential panel upgrade where most installers will use a meter/main combo.
At the begining, my plan was to feed the mail panel from the right bottom knockout in the meter socket to a left top knockout in the panel. I had problems with this approach because I was not getting the minimun bending radius inside the meter socket. It was impossible to bend a 2/0 wire in the limited room that I had. The main panel is also designed to be fed from the top or bottom only. You can not side feed this panel and expect to have the wire radius required when you reach the top lugs.
The next step to the final aproval the inspector said that I need to run all the connections from the old panel to the new one using the old panel as a splice box. I would like to have your help to find the best way to do it. I am including 3 pictures to help you to come out with some ideas. There is drywall on the interior side of the wall.Thanks again.
I am eliminating the interior panel. It a Zinsco, they have a bad record and I had already a problem with arcing at the main breaker. The enclosure will become a splice box. I need also to find out if closure plate is available to cover the hole once I remove the meter.
These are more or less the existing wiring that I need to extent to the new panel:
22 hot 12 gage
12 neutral 12 gage
2 hot 10 gage
2 hot 8 gage
The 200 amp feed is for the subpanel that I have sent pictures of previously when I had the issue of the bushing and you responded to me composing a picture where you added a nipple and a grounding bushing. The main and subpanel are identical design except that one is a main breaker and the other is MLO, and they are situated about 25 feet apart.
The sub is for future use.
The Zinsco panel is the one that you see next to the right of the new main panel in the later pictures. It is still the only panel connected to the power company.
The lid for the breakers is down in the picture, the breaker compartment is just below the meter.The meter and breakers are one unit.
I can send you a picture with the lid up if you need it.
I am also not too sure about the grounding wire running up to the meter socket.The inspector did not say anything about it. That wire terminates in a grounding bushing installed a the other end of the conduit. It does not continue into the meter socket area.
I do not undestand the part that you said "to bond the grounding wire on the pipe as it enters you home", I need more information on this part.
The inspector accepted your load calc, he had no questions about it, thanks.
Is that the kind of flex called liquid tight? It is a metal flex with a plastic sleeve on the outside. Do I need insulating grounding bushings on both ends at the old and new panel? If I need them, will they be connected by one green wire that also connects to the grounding bar in the new panel?
Early in the dialogue I forgot to mention that the inspector made me bond the hot and the cold water pipe to the gas line at the water heater enclosure. He said is required by code.
My project was approved on the final inspection.