You will definitely need obedience training if he hasn't had it so far. The following site is helpful in helping owners train their dog. Be sure and click on the link to the page on obedience at the bottom. and links on subsequent pages leading to detailed instructions.
Training works best if you train at least 30 minutes a day (two 15 minute sessions). I would start making your dog work via the Nothing in life is free program (NILF). It is outlined below.
A well trained dog recognizes the owner as the boss and as the boss, the territory belongs to you not the dog so they are less likely to protect the territory unless you indicate you need their help doing so. It will be helpful if you can find someone with a dog to help you once you have your dog listening to commands consistently. What you will do is have your dog on the leash. You will have your helper off in the distance. Your helper will gradually move their dog a bit closer to you preferably walking past your position in the distance. As long as your dog ignores them, you can give your dog praise and a treat. The second you see him fixate on the other dog or show any other sign of aggression (hair standing up, etc.) give your dog a correction by giving a short tug and a firm low toned "NO". It shouldn't take your dog long to realize you will not tolerate the aggression and that if he ignores the other dog, he gets treats. Once this happens you can repeat the training moving the other dog closer until he is no longer trying to lunge at other dogs. You will need to practice this when you and your dog are walking as well.
The best treats are hot dog slivers or chic***** *****vers. The treat has to be higher value to your dog that lunging at the cars or person. Once he is fine with one dog, see about another helper. You use the same tactic with vehicles but since you are unlikely to be able to control who is driving by, you will have your dog further away from the cars instead. Use the same reprimand and reward with calm praise and treats when he acts acceptable. It isn't a quick fix but is proven to correct the situation. I still recommend some sort of visible boundary if at all possible. At my home we have what is called field fencing. It is not exceptionally sturdy but easily put up and keeps other dogs out. As I think I mentioned, some clients use very short flower garden fencing to create a physical boundary as well.
Now some trainers will use a remote electric training collar for these types of situations stating you can give a shock correction when the dog starts toward the car or dog but often when a dog is shocked in this manner, they associate that shock with the other dog, etc and it can make the situation even worse. So if you get that suggestions from anyone, please do not try that solution.
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