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Jane Lefler
Jane Lefler, Animal Behaviorist
Category: Dog Training
Satisfied Customers: 18955
Experience:  Dog breeder/Trainer and Behaviorist 18+ years
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I have 2 yrs old schnauzer which I can not train. I have

Customer Question

I have 2 yrs old schnauzer which I can not train. I have puppy pads in three places in my
home. I keep clean she does not like dirty ones. Still she pee on the carpets and rug daily.
I love her dearly. I'm to the point of having her put to sleep if I can't find a solution.
Submitted: 2 months ago.
Category: Dog Training
Expert:  Jane Lefler replied 2 months ago.

Hi, I'm Jane. Welcome to JustAnswer. I'm reviewing your question now, and will be back in touch with you as soon as possible.

Expert:  Jane Lefler replied 2 months ago.

In order to supply you with an informed answer, it is necessary for me to collect some additional information from you. When I receive your response or reply, it will likely take me between 30-45 minutes to type up my reply if I am still online when I receive notice that you replied. I hope you can be patient.

What an how do you clean up after her accidents?

So if the pad is not soiled, she will use it but will not reuse a soiled one?

Will she go on grass outside?

Is this a miniature schnauzer or a large one?

What obedience training has the dog had?

How long have you owned this dog?

Is she spayed?

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
IPad is still down even if she thought if she saw those on at once I clean it up
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Posted by JustAnswer at customer's request) Hello. I would like to request the following Expert Service(s) from you: Live Phone Call. Let me know if you need more information, or send me the service offer(s) so we can proceed.
Expert:  Jane Lefler replied 2 months ago.

I'm not able to do phone calls at this time and I have lots of links to give you that will help with the training process.

Expert:  Jane Lefler replied 2 months ago.

There are a lot of different factors when house training. One is to be sure there is no medical cause such as spay incontinence or incontinence due to a urinary tract infection. These conditions can make it almost impossible to house train a dog. So if she hasn't been checked over medically, I would have that done.

The fastest and easiest way of house training is crate training. When you use pads, dogs tend to start thinking it is acceptable to eliminate inside. They will often later in life eliminate on any piece of paper or plastic they find on the floor. It is easier to teach them to go outside. Crate training teaches them that. Below you will find the way I crate train dogs, which has worked consistently for 15 years. If you have other dogs you will need to separate them when taking them out to go to the bathroom, as they will want to play rather than potty.

I would also always take your dog outside on a leash. An unleashed dog can run into the street and get hit by a car, or get into a fight with another dog and be seriously injured. Do this even if you have a fenced yard. No playing with your dog during potty time either.

During crate training, you will be having your dog confined either in a crate or confined to a very small area which optimally will only allow the dog room to lay down in. Dogs will generally not soil an area where they sleep. Feeding a dog in their crate can help as well since they rarely eliminate where they eat.

When you feed or give your dog water, take the dog immediately outside to go to the bathroom. Also take the dog out first thing in the morning, last thing at night and after extended play times and when they wake up after a nap. Take your dog to an area where you want your dog to go and preferably one that has been used previously. Allow your dog approximately 10-15 minutes to go to the bathroom. If your dog doesn't produce, take your dog inside and cage them again. If your dog does produce results allow her some uncrated time as a reward before crating or containing the dog again.

If your dog didn't go to the bathroom, take your dog out again about 30 minutes later and repeat this until your dog goes. Praise your dog profusely when your dog succeeds and is on the leash. This will teach your dog that it needs to go when you take your dog out and not play around first. You can also give treats to help her know that eliminating is what you want when she is outside.

Some dogs learn quicker than others do, but once you have your dog going when it is on the leash and each time you take your dog out, you should be able to stop containing your dog. It is a lot of work, but pays off in the long run. Remember no playing or praise until your dog succeeds in going outside on a leash.

The key is no time outside of the crate unless you can have your eye on them constantly to pick them up and take them out if you see the classic sign of impending bowel movement or urination. Also, scolding a dog for going in the house does no good unless you catch them in the act. If you do catch them, a firm NO and trip outside should be done. Remember to clean any area inside they have gone with a good pet deodorizing ENZYMATIC cleaner. It has to soak down into the padding to effectively remove any trace of odor. Here is a site with more information on crate training.

http://www.inch.com/~dogs/cratetraining.html

This is how I house train all my dogs. In addition, put a bell or other noise maker on the door low enough for the dog to reach. Each time you take the dog out, ring the bell. The dog will associate ringing the bell with going out and one day ring the bell to signal to you that she needs to go out.

One suggestion would be to start feeding and watering her on a schedule. Keep a log of when you feed her and give her water. also keep a log of when she defecates or urinates. Soon you will see a pattern develop as to how long after eating or drinking hse eliminates. This will allow you to either be sure she is outside when she needs to eliminate or move her meal time so the time she would need to eliminate is more convenient for you.

You might also use what i call a sod mat. You take a large pan like a kitty litter pan or even a baby swimming pool. You create a platform frame with wire on top. Place newspaper or other absorbent material such as wood shavings under the platform and place sod on top of the wire frame. Since it is grass, your dog will go on it. You can remove solids and can spray the urine so it moves through and down into the absorbent material underneath. This lets you use the same piece of sod for a while before needing to replace it. You do need to replace the material under the platform. This helps teach a dog that the acceptable place to eliminate is on grass and dirt.

I hope this information is helpful to you. If you would like any additional information or have more questions please don’t hesitate to press the reply to expert or continue conversation button so I can address any issues you still have . If you do find this helpful, please take this opportunity to rate my answer positively so I am compensated for my time.

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
These are all things I tried tried before several times any other answers
Expert:  Jane Lefler replied 2 months ago.

Well given the sod patch is an original technique I deveoped, I'm not sure how you did that idea. Fake grass mats do not work Since you say you tried the crate training, how large was the crate? Did she eliminate in the crate every day? how long after drinking does she urinate? How long after eating does she defecate? When do you feed her? Again, what cleaning supply are you using and how are you using it?

The ideas and techniques I've described are proven to work so it sounds like you may have not been consistent in how you executed them or didn't do them long enough to see improvement. The log book works wonders. Now if the problem is that she eliminates each time you leave it could be separation anxiety and not a house training issue. For that I'd recommend a DAP collar to help reduce anxiety and desensitizing training. Dap collars are proven effective for anxiety and work for soiling due to anxiety.

Practice putting her in the crate, leaving the house, opening the door immediately and rewarding her with a hot dog treat if se did not eliminate.. This teaches her that you leave but come back quickly. Once she seems to not do anything when you initially leave, lengthen the time she must not eliminate for you to come back in. Change the time as well. Make it 2 minutes one time and 10 mintues another, so she never knows if you are gone for an hour or gone for 2 minutes. It helps her stay calm for longer periods of time, just be sure you reward her when she does not eliminate

Another thing that helps is to do things that might make the dog feel you are leaving and then don't such as putting on your coat or picking up your keys. Or leave without doing those things. This helps remove things that might trigger the dog to become anxious.

These should help her separation anxiety and help stop her eliminating if it related to anxiety. It will not be an overnight cure and will take work on your and your family’s part to be consistent in your interaction with him. Here is a site that also offers idea to combat separation anxiety.

http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/dog-care/overcoming-separation-anxiety.aspx

You will need to clean everywhere exceptionally well using lots of enzymatic cleaner and let it soak in to remove the odor. Personally in over 40 years i've never seen a dog not be able to be crate trained unless there was a medical issue, so I would get her checked over. Then try some of these methods for pad training but no matter what do not let her run loose.

Here are three pad methods that I already have written up even though I don't recommend pad training for reasons I mentioned earlier.

In the area that you want her to use the pad, set up an enclosure. You can use child gates, free standing pet enclosures, or anything that will serve to enclose the area you want her to use. These are the times when you will be taking your dog to the enclosure. When you feed or give your dog water, first thing in the morning, last thing at night and after extended play times.

You will want to start this when you are not working or when you can spend a couple of hours in the morning and evening exclusively doing this. Enclose or barricade the area and put pads over the entire area. Scent one of the pads and place it where you will leave it when there is only one pad. When you and your dog get up in the morning, instead of taking her outside, take her to the enclosed area and put her inside it. You can leave her a few toys but basically put her in the enclosed area. It is best if you can stay there and keep an eye on her. Do not engage her with talk or play or reassurances. Just be there so you can see her when he actually goes. She may be reluctant, but do not cave in to whines or cries. You must remain calm and in control and ignore her. Sit in a chair and read or do some other activity to keep you occupied while she is in there so you are not focused on her but can still see her. It may take some time, especially the first time, but she will eventually go on the pads as she has no where else to go. When you see her start to go, you can say in a low calm voice “good potty”. It needs to be in a low quiet voice so she isn’t startled into stopping. Give her lots of praise for succeeding and perhaps a little treat and you can then remove her from the enclosure and open it up so she has access if she want to use it. The first time may take an hour or more, but if you do it first thing in the morning, it is likely to take less time.

Repeat this according to the circumstances I mentioned earlier concerning when she should be going and a few extra times during the day to try and avoid accidents. After a few times going in the enclosed space and being praised for it and getting treats she should not be as reluctant to go in the enclosed area. Continue to praise and say the key wood “Potty”. When she reaches the point where she is going to the bathroom almost immediately in the enclosure on the pads, you will want to start taking up some of the pads so only a portion of the enclosed area has pads. Repeat as if the whole area was covered. Your dog should go on the pads and not the floor. If she does, continue the praise and treats. Slowly reduce the number of pads in the area until you are down to one or two only. If she should happen to miss the pad or go off the pad, add some more for the next time as you probably were taking them away too fast. At this point she knows the pads are where she should be going.

Once she is going on the pads and you are down to one or two pads, don’t close up the enclosure when you put her in it. He should still use the pad as she is now used to it. When she does, again praise, praise and more praise, let her come out the opening. Continue this process if it is necessary, but with the enclosure being open, you may now find that he is going there on his own. Once you notice she is using it without you putting her in there, you should be able to take away the enclosure or barrier. She should now be trained to use the pad.

Depending on how quick a learner she is, you may find she starts going in and using the pad early. If so the barrier can go earlier, but you should still only slowly reduce the number of pads she has to go on, so she doesn't miss, use the floor and think it is ok.

Second method is similar but you would leave her in the enclosed area all the time unless you are taking her for a walk, and just slowly removing paper and decreasing the area inside the enclosure that is papered. As long as she continues to use the paper, you are not moving too fast. Once you are down to a small area, she should be trained. I suggest this because while the dog is contained in an area with paper, the dog may not be as stressed as when there is a cage all around him.

Third method

Set up a contained small area with the paper. Then you will have the dog on a leash attached to you. I attach the leash to a belt loop on my pants. This way she is always where you can observe her easily and stop her before she starts urinating and place her in the potty area. When you see her start to squat, give a quick short tug on the leash and in a low toned, firm voice say "NO". Do not be upset. Pick her up and put her in the potty area. With this method it is best to just stand outside the area looking around ignoring the dog until she goes. Remember praise is everything.

If none of these work, you will have to crate her when you are not home and leash her to you when you are home. If she is leashed to you, she won't be eliminating without you seeing. If you can see her, you can give a correction before she eliminates and take her outside. If she is in a properly sized crate and she eliminates in it, she will be forced to sit in it. They don't like that. No padding in the crate. Bare tray only. If it has a pad, it will soak up the urine and it won't be uncomfortable. it has to be uncomfortable for her or she won't learn. I know it will be hard on you as you will need to rinse or bathe her when she eliminates in the crate, but she won't be eliminating on your carpets.

Expert:  Jane Lefler replied 2 months ago.
Hi Pat,
I'm just following up on our conversation about your pet. How is everything going?
Jane Lefler
Expert:  Jane Lefler replied 1 month ago.

Following up to see if you have read my last post that suggested a possible Separation anxiety issue with your dog. Please let me know if you found that helpful.

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