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Dr Pete
Dr Pete, Dog Veterinarian
Category: Dog Veterinary
Satisfied Customers: 3009
Experience:  Bachelor of Veterinary Science University of Melbourne
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why does my dog feel sweaty on her stomach sometimes. also

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why does my dog feel sweaty on her stomach sometimes. also soon after i bath her she is stinky again.
Dogs have very few sweat glands so what you are feeling is oil from the sebaceous glands. These glands are spread all over the body. Their function is to lubricate and protect the skin and also to coat the hair fibres. Normally the amount of oil secreted isn't enough to be too obvious. A "healthy coat" is often the only clue we have to adequate oil production. However some dogs have excessively active oil glands and the oil becomes more noticeable as a clammy feel on the bare parts of the skin. This build up of oil can also facilitate the breeding of skin bacteria and yeasts. So these bugs are breeding in the oil and dead skin layer on the surface, they are not at this stage invading the skin and causing a true infection. As they break down the oils they create odour. This is the strong "doggy smell" you are noticing. So when you bath her you remove the top smelly layer but the layer of oil below still contains the bacteria and yeasts and they continue to break the oil down and the smell returns straight away.
You will need to switch to a medicated shampoo that will penetrate deeper through the oil layer and into the dead keratin layer on the surface of the skin. Malaseb shampoo ( is specifically designed for this and will also control the yeast and bacterial overload. It is available over the counter at most vets.
This is a common problem in dogs and needs some attention because eventually the bacteria will penetrate into the live layer of the skin and cause a dermatitis which may require medication.
I hope I have been of assistance.
Kindest regards, Peter
Dr Pete and other Dog Veterinary Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 7 years ago.

How long after using the shampoo should I notice a difference? And if no difference then I should take her to the vet?

Hi again
Remember that her oil production is a part of her physiology so the sampoo needs to be used as an ongoing concern. Repeat the shampooing as soon as the odour returns. This might initially be after just a few days but each time you use the shampoo it will penetrate deeper and remove more of the oil and eventually the top dead layer of skin. So the shampooing intervals will gradually increase. The shampoo won't hurt the live skin's a keratolytic (breaks down the dead layer). So you should start to get a good response after the first 2-3 baths but it's variable and you will have to use the shampoo as a routine in the future. The oil production tends to be worse in spring or when there are allergens in the air of if the dog is itchy for any reason.
If she isn't responding after 2-3 shampoos then a vet vsit might be worthwhile as antibiotics may be required to tackle the bacteria in that way too.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.

Thank You so very much you have been a big help!!!!!!!! Wink Heidi also thanks you!






Customer: replied 7 years ago.
For her skin condition what type of flea control should I use?

Sorry about the delay....different time zone.
The safest and most effective flea treatments are the topical “spot-ons” but make sure you use one of the top brands. Some of the cheaper brands have been involved in problems with dogs.

Effective flea control must comprise two parts.

  1. Control of the adults on the pet.
  2. Control of the environmental stages.

So for the he adults use Revolution, Frontline, Advantage or Advocate. All very safe and will cause no problem with her skin issues. Frontline uses the oil layer in the skin to disperse and is best applied a couple of days before the bath (yes, before). That would be my choice for her being an oily dog. The other brands disperse differently and are best applied after the bath. Insecticides in the form of powders, shampoos, rinses and flea collars are nowhere near as effective and pose some risk to the health of your pet and yourself.

The environmental stages pose more problems. The egg and pupal stages of the flea are very resistant to insecticides until they hatch. Fortunately they can be effectively removed physically. This means thorough vacuuming of all floor surfaces including hard surfaces and all upholstery. Empty the vacuum cleaner straight away as the flea immatures will be in there. Wash all bedding. Make sure every place the pet frequents is attended to. This means kennels, under furniture, behind drapes and under beds. Wherever your dog or cat goes will be where the flea immatures are hiding and these immature stages account for 95% of the flea population.

Whereas insecticide sprays are of little value some of the flea bomb fogging agents can be very effective. These are the brands that contain insect growth retardants (IGR’s). These chemicals are extremely safe for our pets and for us. They work by breaking the life cycle of the immature fleas. They are best used after a thorough clean up.