Dodge Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
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How high will the rpm get if you push gas?
Does it act like there is a rpm limiter such as buck/sputter at 1200 rpm? Did problem slowly get worse? Thanks.
Based on symptom alone it sounds like a clogged converter. Remove front oxygen sensor completely from exhaust and let me know if that helps. Thanks.
Have you done fuel pressure test?
All sensors and tps seem to be within normal limits on scantool?
Check Idle Air Control (IAC) counts. If it is near 0, suspect a leaking bottom plenum gasket on the intake. Inspect by looking down through the throttle blades with a flashlight. If oil is seen at the bottom of the intake manifold, the lower plenum cover is leaking. Beyond that it is starting to sound like a PCM problem. Surging is usually a symptom of a vacuum leak although it doesn't usually stop engine from reving. Let me know how test goes, thanks.
Have you checked compression?
That is low, check every cylinder so you have cylinders to compare to. Let me know, thanks.
Ya, manual says 100 but it should be closer to 200 or at least that is what I have seen on this engine when doing test.
So if one cylinder says 100 and other says 180 then you know there is a problem.
If compression is good then I don't see anything other then PCM left but I'm guessing that has already been replaced. Let me know how compression is, thanks.
What was compression on the other 6 cylinders?
I mean other 4 cylinders.
Not for sure but most likely, you may still have a valve problem going on too.
I'm not sure what to think, I'd think PCM next but it has already been replaced and a expensive part to replace and hope with. I'll open question back up to see if someone else has some ideas, they will reply automatically if they can help. Thanks.
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What is cam/crank sync at idle?
You're looking for cam/crank sync degrees.
Does it not have spark?
You mentioned checking timing marks. Can you elaborate on exactly what was done there?
You can't move the distributor without using a scan tool to set sync with the engine is running or going through the basic initial adjustment procedure with a voltmeter. It sounds like you've randomly positioned the distributor now?
What needs to be done is set distributor sync. I will post the procedure shortly.
Turn the engine clockwise until the mark on the damper is at the 0 mark on the timing cover. If you go past then you need to back up a quarter turn and come back to the mark clockwise to keep timing chain slack on the correct side.
Remove the distributor cap and see where the rotor is pointing. IF it's 180 degrees from the number 1 mark on the pickup plate then turn the crank one turn and line up the mark on the damper again.
Reinstall the distributor cap and set up to backprobe on the signal wire from the pickup plate. Slightly loosen the distributor bolt.
Very slowly turn the distributor clockwise ten degrees or so and then slowly turn it counterclockwise while watching the voltmeter. When the voltage toggles from 0-5 or the other way around stop immediately and lock the distributor down. If you miss the switch point then start over.
After the engine is running it's imperative that the set sync procedure with a scan tool be done to set it to zero degrees.
Correct, you're turning the distributor counter clockwise until the switch point.
You're stopping the distributor when it hits the switch point between 5 and 0.
You need to find the switch point and set it exactly there.
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when you did the fuel pressure test did you rev the engine to see if it dropped below 44 psi?
rotate crankshaft one full turn and recheck pickup and shutter alignment.
I have been reading the earlier posts to this thread and it says you went to TDC exhaust stroke?
It should be TDC compression stroke or was that a typo?
But if you went to exhaust stroke then your distributor is 180 degrees out.
yes but number 1 cylinder will be at TDC twice once at compression stroke and once at exhaust stroke.
try rotating distributor exactly 180 degrees and see what happens. It will either run or not run. after all this its a simple test.
TDC will line up with the crank twice in 1 revolution of the distributor. so just because it lined up with tdc doesn't mean it's lined up with the proper TDC.
The distributor being out 180 degrees all of that will still be there.
Line the crank shaft up with TDC mark on Front cover, Remove Distributor, Rotate Crank 1 turn until its lined back up with TDC marks and reinstall Distributor at number 1 wire.
I know that's why the distributor is removed before making one full revolution. and the reinstall the distributor in number 1 position.
The shutter and pickup being out 180 degrees is what makes me think timing is out 180 degrees.
they are supposed to line up at TDC cylinder one to tell the pcm of a new cycle.
personally i would pull the distributor out and rotate the rotor 180 degrees. it won't cause any harm to the engine and after all the testing done on this vehicle its worth trying anything right now.
But shutter and pickup should line up at TDC #1
no just pull the distributor out and rotate it half a turn.
btw i completely agree with you on everything being lined up properly. all the information i have on firing order is saying its set up properly.
This may seem ridiculous but I read you got this car from another shop after they did a bunch of work. are the ignition wires installed in the proper order on the distributor?
If you pull the rotor off of the distributor shaft can it be installed backwards by any chance?
Do you have a scan tool to monitor cam and crank sensor data?
ya your looking for that spot that it will switch from 0 to 5v
exactly at this point it seems like this truck has been a nightmare for you. keep me in formed on how it goes.
you can move it 180 degrees?
then im all out of ideas for this truck with out physically seeing it myself. I wish i could give more assistance.
It is possible but that doesn't explain how you had it idling for 15 minutes with no problems.
The timing cocer isnt difficult to remove to check timing.