Dodge Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
hello, engine size?
had to step out, working on it now, Back shortly
ok, can you please send all wire colors to your sending unit/pump unit, Blue/green is not a feed wire to the pump
ok, that is different, you wrote blue/green with key on so, probe the green / black while cranking, Pump power is NOT with key on, then LMK
ok,. I do not have a diagram showing fule pump relay, I think? it is #5 in the under hood fuse box, Does anyhting on your end show exact location? here is a picture
remove it, probe each and all terminals relay plugs into while CRANKING, how many have 12 volts
ok, unsure at the moment. I do have to step away shortly for the evening, I will be back a bit later, I am going to opt out and open the post to the other experts. If none can help? I will pickup where we dropped off upon my return
Hello, Eddie here and I will do my best to help. With key ON, does the check engine light come on? and do you have 12 volts to the GREEN/ORANGE wire at any fuel injector?
OK do you know where the ASD relay is under the hood?
The ASD relay provides power to the fuel pump relay, as well as the fuel injectors and the Engine computer, which is why the check engine light probably goes out. Barring a problem with the ECM or an odd wiring issue, I believe the ASD relay is at fault. Do you see a relay identical to it you can swap it with temporarily? (don't swap it with the fuel pump relay) to see if it runs after that?
A/C clutch relay, see if you can swap it with that one.
If you swap it with A/C relay does the check engine light stay on then? and do you have power to the fuel linjectors? or same result?
Can you check power on the fuel injectors when cranking to see if you have power to them then?
Here is the diagram, showing the ASD grounded by the ECM. I'm starting to think this ECM may be bad. If the check engine light only comes on for a second with key on and goes out. Does the ignition switch seem to turn on everything in the dash and heater etc.?
Did this truck die going down the road? or just wouldn't start after you parked it?
OK, with key on, can you pull the fuel pump relay and see if you have power to 2 of the terminals?
OK, that is a problem, the RED/WHITE should light up, check the 30 amp fuse D in the power distribution box, make sure it has power on both sides with the fuse in.
you have you test light clip on ground correct?
But with the fuse in, can you touch the top of the fuse and both sides light up? the fuse is good correct?
pull that fuse and replace it. I think that is the problem or the connection. does it run with both sides lit up and your relays back in?
Did that fix it?
Alright, sounds good. let me know what happens.
power to the RED/WHITE wire at the Fuel Pump Relay comes from the 30 amp fuse D per the wiring diagram. Do you have power to 2 terminals at the fuel pump relay with key on yet?
Hey, thought I would follow up, We're you able to get power to the RED/WHITE wire at the fuel pump relay?
It may be the ECM, but I don't want to condemn it just yet until we know we have power everywhere we are supposed to.
Interesting, My wiring diagram must be wrong. Let me opt out in case another expert can assist. Thank you.
Hi There, I'm Clayso a certified master automobile technician with 30 years of automotive repair and diagnostic experience.
I've been following along with this conversation and what I see, there is power only on one of the fuel pump relay terminals where power should be present on 2 of the terminals. The fuel pump relay should be #5 in the Power Distribution Center (PDC). From your description it sounds like you got power from the 30 amp D fuse to the red/white wire, but no power on the red/white wire at the relay. The red/white wire at the relay is the supply and the dark green/black is the load circuit to the pump. Just off from the PDC about 12-16 inches is a splice S115 in the red/white wire that is most likely corroded and not powering the ECM, ASD and fuel pump relays. The link below is the splice location located on the driver's side inner fender.
I hope this information is helpful. If you have any questions let me know. You can reply back to me through this thread at any time. Let me know that you find power at any of the red/white wires at the splice.Thanks
That's cool. I'll be here.
Thanks for letting me know.
Just check to see if you had a chance to check the red/white wire at the splice. The link below shows three places that the red/white wire should have power.
PDC Circuit A14 Red-White Wire
The circuit number is ***** and a test light would be best to check for power at these locations. Simply remove the ASD and the fuel pump relays and check the B terminals for power.
Let me know what you find
Thanks for getting back to me. With no power on the B terminals, I'd be all over the S115 splice. Once the splice is found verify there is power going into and out of the splice. If the splice checks good the PDC has failed internally. In my experience I've found the splice more often than the PDC for failures.
I hope this information is helpful. If you have any questions let me know. You can reply back to me through this thread at any time.
Kindly rate my assistance in a positive manner so I may have credit for helping you.Positive ratings are greatly appreciated.Thanks.
Power Distribution Center. Basically the underhood fuse box.
You can open the PDC and see if circuit A14 is corroded. Circuit A14 will have the red/white wires and you may be able to determine the relays location in comparison from the top to the bottom. If there is no power at the splice on any of the wires the problem will be in the PDC. If you do open the PDC take some good pictures top side and bottom side and send them to me, I may be able to see any problems.
Hope this helps, let me know.Thanks
Do you now have power on the B terminal at the ASD relay? Is there now any power on the green/orange wire at any of the fuel injectors?
I'm not sure if moving the harness around changed a connection anywhere and started powering the fuel pump.
I can speed this up with a premium offer. I can offer a premium service for 5 bucks and continue this conversation through regular email and or the phone, which ever works best. I can provide diagrams and technical information specific to this problem for this vehicle. Regular email is so much easier for sending technical information, diagrams and images. It's also straightforward for you to send me images. I'm kind of confused as to how the fuel pump started getting power. Please accept my offer for 1995 Dakota A14 Circuit so I can better assist you.
Let me know if you now have power at the ASD relay, at any of the injectors and about my offer. This premium offer will give me a positive rating and moves this conversation off this forum and into plain email so I will be able to call you and find out what all changed the fuel pumps operation.
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