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sprinkles08
sprinkles08, Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep master tech
Category: Dodge
Satisfied Customers: 21591
Experience:  ASE Master and Advanced Certified, Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep Master Certified, Trans and Hybrid Specialist
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Dodge Ram 1500: Alright here's a puzzler I have a 2000 Dodge

Customer Question

Alright here's a puzzler I have a 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 5.2l v8. All original equipment it's had a rich fuel smell coming from the exhaust for a few years but I can't find a cause. Over the last few years when ever it would get to a steady incline it would drop to 55 mph and stay there until I level off. Over the past 3 months I've had intermittent no start conditions that kept getting worse and worse. It has a lack of power on the freeway. It surged once a month and a half ago but that was it. A couple weeks ago I tore the intake manifold off and cleaned it all up and took the timing chain cover off to put a new timing chain and sprockets on.... Everything is clean I spent 2 days cleaning every surface that uses a gasket! New gaskets include timing chain cover water pump thermostat housing brand new plenum gasket and wor intake plus intake manifold gaskets. Used proper liquid gasket on all of them! New thermostat as well and water pump.
I put everything back together and now it has misfires all over the place. It's 110200 miles on the engine... Catalytic converters are original and I used sea foam a few years ago not sure if it destroyed them. New fuel injector o rings and the rotor camshaft sensor and spark plugs are about 2 years old. It has a whistle on start up and shut off not sure where it's coming from. Everything has thread locker blue on it and it's all been torqued to the proper specs and checked like a million times. Spark plug wires were checked and rerouted so there is no cause to suspect interference from other wires... Oh new coolant sensor forgot to mention that earlier. We did a fuel pressure test and it's perfectly fine. Valve covers and spark plugs were all loose and I re torqued them all to spec. Have yet to burp the coolant system but I did pull some of the spark plugs and the day I got done with the project and sipped everything up it ran about 200 degrees causing some of piston particles to accumulate on the bridge of the spark plugs they are indeed running hot... I'm running out of ideas to figure this out. Thinking either o2 sensors and cats are failing maybe the camshaft and or crankshaft sensor is failing maybe clogged fuel injectors... Keep in mind the truck was running fine with no misfires what so ever until after the project I just did with the intake manifold cause it was letting oil in (common problem with this model and the intake manifold) and the timing chain. Please help really bugging me and it's been out of commission for almost a month now and I feel like a burden to the people I'm getting rides from.
Submitted: 8 months ago.
Category: Dodge
Expert:  AZTechBrian replied 8 months ago.
Hi. Are you getting codes for misfires in all cylinders?
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
That's the weird part we have a scanner and we have checked regular dtcs and enhanced dtcs but nothing is coming up... All the scanner shows is I may or may not pass a smog test.
Expert:  AZTechBrian replied 8 months ago.
It sounds like you need to use a different scan tool. When you say it has misfires all over the place, Im thinking that every cylinder is missing. I am wondering if you are off on your timing chain.
Expert:  AZTechBrian replied 8 months ago.
That or your distributor was possibly installed in the wrong position.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I was particularly anal about it being just right when I zipped it up the timing marks were perfect when I zipped it up... Can you think of anything else?
Expert:  AZTechBrian replied 8 months ago.
distributor
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Nope distributor is in the correct position and all of the wires have been checked a thousand times and was just rerouted this afternoon still having misfires...
Expert:  AZTechBrian replied 8 months ago.
How do you know that your distributor was dropped in exactly in the right position? I am not talking about the wires being wrong.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
The distributor cap has the number 1 cylinder marked on it... The distributor wasn't taken off during the project and I have checked it over 10 times in the past few mothers i am 100 percent positive it's in the right position.
Expert:  AZTechBrian replied 8 months ago.
Have you tried checking for vacuum leaks?
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I rebuilt the intake and torqued it all down I replaced 2 hoses but it still has a whistle on start up and turn off tomorrow I was going to go around the engine with starter fluid spray and see if I can locate it anywhere.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
However I had this before the project started for about a month...
Expert:  AZTechBrian replied 8 months ago.
That's what I would suggest. Search for vacuum leaks using some carb cleaner or propane.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Ok if that were to fail what would you suggest next?
Expert:  AZTechBrian replied 8 months ago.
I would suggest using a different scan tool. There has to be something stored if it's running that badly. If you have the ability, check your fuel trims. If you have a vacuum leak, they will be high. Let me know what you come up with.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I can't remember what my long term fuel trim was but I remember both my short terms were 99.2
Expert:  AZTechBrian replied 8 months ago.
wow.. they should be closer to zero. If you give it some gas, does it smooth out at all?
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I can't remember the truck is on a trickle charge right now because all the cranking drained the batter after all the start up tests... Was going to let it trickle over night then try it again tomorrow
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Now I wouldn't quote me on this cause this is from memory from earlier in the week. But if I remember correctly one of the long term fuel trims switched between -1 to -5 mostly staying around -3
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Also I just wanted to say the intermittent no start was 1 time every couple of months then it progressed to every month then a couple weeks then every week and towards the end it was 1 time a couple times every other week
Expert:  AZTechBrian replied 8 months ago.
Ok, so you had one bank that was slightly negative, ( totally fine) and another bank that was way positive? check the trims for both banks tomorrow and get back to me.
Expert:  AZTechBrian replied 8 months ago.
I can't remember, but did you already verify proper fuel pressure?
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Definitely will do that I am testing the o2 sensors tomorrow as well with our scanner
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Yes fuel pressure at idle was 47
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Also I've had this clicking noise coming from this system in the front passenger side of the engine bay. I want to say it's the evap system it looks like a filter and it's been clicking...
Expert:  AZTechBrian replied 8 months ago.
Ok. The fuel pressure should be between 44 and 54 with the key on engine off, so it sounds like that's good. Did you say you had the whistling sound before the work as well? and it wasn't misfiring then?
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
The whistling was a previous condition before the project about a month old or so... No misfiring at all it lacked power and was also to accelerate... Surged once in the last 2 months when I would get to hills or small inclined on the high way it would bump down to 55mph and no matter what I would do whether keep it constant or mash the accelerator down it wouldn't go faster but when the surface would level off it would get its power back
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
The fuel pressure test was taken from the test port while engine was running
Expert:  AZTechBrian replied 8 months ago.
So, it would be fine, then out of nowhere it would lose power? I am at a bit of a loss here. What is getting me is that after the repairs, something got worse which makes me think most of this issue has to be related to something with the repair. The best I can come up with is a vacuum leak which would be supported by a very high fuel trim like you have.
Expert:  AZTechBrian replied 8 months ago.
lets get those trims and go from there.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
It has a general lack of power and acceleration but once I hit the incline boom down to 55 mph and then back to a level surface
Expert:  AZTechBrian replied 8 months ago.
When you got your fuel pressure reading at idle of 47, was it running bad?
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Yes it was running very bathe car is shaking very noticeably when your in the drivers seat and is even evident just standing next to it
Expert:  AZTechBrian replied 8 months ago.
OK. Then I think it's safe to rule out a bad fuel pump. That is right in specification. I would really like to know which cylinders are missing. There are definitely misfires. Try another scan tool and check for vacuum leaks and get the fuel trims. Lets take it from there.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I wish I knew which cylinders were misfiring I pulled the spark plugs from 1 2 4 and 6 and all had evidence of melted piston particles on the bridges and evidence of high heat going on in the combustion chamber
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Tomorrow morning I will warm it up and check the o2 sensors and the fuel trims and while it's warming up I'm going to go around with the starter fluid and if all else fails I'm going to take the valve covers off and turn the crankshaft to see if when cylinder one is supposed to fire if the valves for that cylinder is acting accordingly
Expert:  AZTechBrian replied 8 months ago.
your pistons are melting?
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
My father is an engineer and had built dirt track cars before but he's mostly a very very capable home mechanic not a true experienced career mechanic we took a look at the bridges of the spark plugs and he says the shiny little metal balls are particles from the Pistons...
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I let it warm up the night I finished the project and the temp reading on the dash got to 200 when it usually sits around 190-195
Expert:  AZTechBrian replied 8 months ago.
man.. I wish I was there to help with this one. There are a handful of things that can cause that. I wonder if your exhaust is clogged?
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I know it's a real puzzler that's why I decided to get on here and ask for some help... Like I said though I have used sea foam on the system before it was about 3 years ago and I haven't changed the o2 sensors since and the catalytic converters are original never changed
Expert:  AZTechBrian replied 8 months ago.
I am stumped on this one without being there to dig into it myself. I'm going to open this up in case one of the other techs knows what is going on based on our conversation.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
That would be a great help like I said i am doing more tests tomorrow which include timing chain position check O2 sensor check and short and long term fuel trim checks both on our scan tool. I'm going to be checking for vacuum leak and I'll run the fuel pressure test with key on engine off tomorrow
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 8 months ago.
Hello and welcome to JustAnswer!If the pistons are actually melting it may be due to an exhaust restriction or spark knock. If they're truly melting it's going to require internal engine repair or replacement.The lack of power and hiss sound like an exhaust restriction due to a restricted catalytic converter. Do you have access to a backpressure gauge?
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I do have access to a back pressure gauge was going to do that today as well
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 8 months ago.
Great! Test at the upstream location and do some wide open throttle snaps, recording the highest reading. If it's California emissions with two converters and four oxygen sensors then you'll want to test both banks.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Will do! Might not be able to get the tests done today it's raining out so have to wait a bit
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 8 months ago.
Not a problem.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Alright guys was able to do a couple tests when the rain gave us a break for a few minutes. Got the fuel pressure tested again with the key on but the engine off it shows up at around 5 lbs of pressure after that we cranked it over and with the key on and the engine on the pressure steadily shot up to 48 lbs of pressure. Also would like to report that I went around the engine with some starter fluid spray and sprayed it down pretty good but no change in idle occurred so I'm thinking no vacuum leaks... Also I forgot to mention earlier I did a vacuum test on the intake manifold a couple days ago and both sides of the intake showed to be at 17-18 inches at idle the needle on both sides would steadily go between 17-18 in about 15-20 second intervals there was no rapid changes it was extremely steady changes... Will be checking fuel trim and o2 sensors next!
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 8 months ago.
If you have access to a backpressure gauge start with the backpressure test we discussed.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Alright guys I have numbers from my scanner... Unfortunately I was unable to do the back pressure test the 2 connectors I could get didn't work so I have to build one myself cause no one has one and I don't feel like waiting for it to get here. Anyway to the numbers!• O2S B1 S1: 0.60 to 0.860
• STFT B1 S1: -11.7 to -3.1
• O2S B1 S2: 0.60 to 0.740
• STFT B1 S2: 99.2
• O2S B2 S1: 0.60 to 0.840
• STFT B2 S1: -5.5 to 3.1
• O2S B2 S2: 0.40 to 0.740
• STFT B2 S2: 99.2• STFT B1: -4.7 to 3.1
• STFT B2: -2.3 to 3.9
• LTFT B1: -28.1
• LTFT B2: -27.3
• Spark Advance: 8.0 - 19.0
• IAT: 131
• TPS: 12.9
• MAP: 10.0
• Coolant Temperature reached 205 but this could also be I haven't burped the system yet...Not liking that long term fuel trim numbers though anyone got any ideas?
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 8 months ago.
Let me know what you find with the backpressure test and we'll go from there.
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
Alright back pressure test is done first test at idle then a quick snap to 2000 rpm then sat at 2500 rpm for a few seconds then a quick snap from 2500 rpms then we shut it off.
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
First video is from passengers side the second one is from the drivers side
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 7 months ago.
Did you try uploading a video to your post? Nothing came through.
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
Ok so it's not letting me upload the videos so here are the numbers:Passengers side:• Idle- 0-1lbs
• Quick snap at idle up to 2000 rpms- 0-3lbs
• 2500 rpms steady- 1-2 lbs
• Quick snap from 2500 rpms up to 3000 rpms- 1-2.5 lbsDrivers side:• Idle- 0-1 lbs
• Quick snap from idle to 2000 rpms- 0-3.5 lbs
• 2500 rpms steady- 0-2.5lbs
• Quick snap from 2000 rpms to 3000 rpms- 1-3 lbs
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
Yeah I tried up loading both it says it was condensing them but then nothing showed up
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 7 months ago.
Both sides are pretty high, 3 PSI is the absolute limit under full throttle and it doesn't look like you exceeded 3,000 RPMs. It likely would have gone higher.Are you able to drop the Y pipe off and see how it runs (remember it could pose a fire hazard). You could also take a look down the pipes with a flashlight or boroscope and see if there is anything abnormal going on.
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
Unfortunately I am not able to take the y pipes off
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
Also the mid happens right on start up
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
Miss
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 7 months ago.
If you're not able to do the work from this point a shop would most likely charge around an hour of labor to diagnose the issue.
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
So at this point you would just say take it to a shop
Expert:  sprinkles08 replied 7 months ago.
The symptoms point to an exhaust restriction and high backpressure has been confirmed, the next step is going to be investigating the converters.