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Ask Dodgerench Your Own Question
Dodgerench, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Dodge
Satisfied Customers: 3401
Experience:  30+ years Dodge/Chrysler exp., ASE Master with L1 certification. Driveability/ combustion specialist
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2003 dodge ram 4.7 liter 30,000 ***** ***** on motor when

Customer Question

2003 dodge ram 4.7 liter 30,000 ***** ***** on motor when cold excellerates just fine when warm stalls when you excellerate all power shuts down no spit and sputtering just dead I have to pull over put in park turn of ignition and restart
JA: Thanks. Can you give me any more details about your issue?
Customer: new fuel pump new heat sensor new ignition as long as you excellerate slowly drives fine give a littie gas shuts all electrical system down
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Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Dodge
Expert:  Dodgerench replied 1 year ago.

Hi, welcome to JustAnswer!. This is Ed.

A quick question as we start.

When you said all power shuts down...

Did you mean that all engine power (only) shuts down?

Or do you lose all other electrical power, such as headlights, blower motor, radio, at the same time that the engine shuts off?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
everything turns off
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
no codes come up and when its cold everything works fine the minute the engine starts to warm up it begins to have problem
Expert:  Dodgerench replied 1 year ago.


If you lose all electrical power, it's going to be a basic battery connection that's come loose. I'd check your grounds first since it's dependent on heavy acceleration to make it act up. Hard acceleration torques the powertrain heavily to the right, which is apparently enough to cause loss of connection at some point.

Check your battery cables first by wiggling and tugging them with the engine running and headlights on (be mindful of the accessory belt). Start close to the battery and start moving toward the engine as you work. If you see flickering or dimming of the headlights or notice a stumble or stall, you're getting close. I'd expect this to be related to either of the larger cables (positive or negative), so give them both plenty of attention.

Replacement battery cable ends are a common source of problems since they rely on clamping to both hold them in place and conduct electricity. They'll sometimes take a few minutes to heat up before they begin acting out, so that's another thing to watch (or feel) for.

The type of problem you're describing won't set a code; quite the contrary, it'll erase any code that might be in the system because of power interruption, so that fits. Check the cables AND the multi-wire grounds that connect near the hood hinges on the inner fender for condition and let me know what you find.


Customer: replied 1 year ago.
on the temp display panel it shows its always in the center between cold and hot when I changed temp sensor and pull cap on radiator reservoir it bubbled out and when all pressure was released and I changed temp sensor it bubbled .I just changed battery and cables are snugg
Expert:  Dodgerench replied 1 year ago.

Boil-out of the cooling system when it's not hot makes me wonder if you have leaking head gaskets or a cracked cylinder head, but it won't cause the stalling problem you described.

Try this for me.

Once again, turn the headlights and blower motor on.

Run the truck until the engine is warm enough that you would expect it to die on acceleration.

Set the parking brake hard and hold the service brake hard with your left foot while pressing the accelerator with your right. Start with minimal accelerator action, increasing it if nothing happens. Do this only if you're confident that the brakes will hold the truck stationary and that nothing is immediately in front of you that could cause an issue if the truck were to lurch forward.

Monitor truck operation as you do a few throttle "stabs" of this sort and let me know what happens. I'm very interested to know if the electrical system goes out at the same time as the engine stalls or stumbles.

You didn't mention whether this problem started before or after the battery replacement. Is it a new problem?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
blower lights radio stayed on motor died
Expert:  Dodgerench replied 1 year ago.

Is that how it works every time?

Are you sure that you lose all power normally? Or does it just die?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
you know I had never tested it like you told me to until now tried several times each time motor died only lights blower did stay on
Expert:  Dodgerench replied 1 year ago.

Very good. That's a major piece of information.

You still have an electrical problem, but it's different from a basic source-type of thing. I believe it's a harness rub that's dependent on the powertrain twisting when you moan on the throttle a bit and it's often located on the back side of the passenger side cylinder head.

Start the engine again and just let it idle.

Get yourself a stool and go over to the passenger side fender area and locate the big harness that comes off the back side of the engine.

Wiggle and tug on it lightly at first, watching for a reaction from the engine.

This section of harness often rubs on the sharp corner of the passenger side-rear cylinder head, shorting it to ground when conditions are right.

I'm guessing that it's shorting out the 5v power feed that's used to supply all your major engine sensors, because it'll kill the engine in a heartbeat, but erase PCM memory at the same time.

Expert:  Dodgerench replied 1 year ago.

If it doesn't act up right away with light movement, steadily increase your efforts. Tug the loom upward and toward the center of the truck, simulating how the engine would twist to the right and push up against and rub the wiring. Try to avoid getting too animated at first because you might move the harness JUST ENOUGH that it becomes hard to duplicate again, but let's start there.

Expert:  Dodgerench replied 1 year ago.

Metal air conditioning lines are also in the area. If you notice a wiring harness lying against one of these lines -- or ANY metal surface for that matter -- pay close attention to the loom for wear areas. Protruding bolt heads from the engine or other areas might burrow into the loom and be practically invisible until you pull the wiring away for inspection. Sharp metal edges (like a cylinder head corner) are more likely to cause problems, but if given enough time, even flat metal surfaces can wear into the harness. The key here appears to be that the truck needs to be under a heavy load, which does rotate the engine and transmission to the passenger side (counter clockwise when viewed from the front).

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
after all that new cables .checking harnesses vacuum lines sensors and I went back to basics boiling anti freeze hum thermostat wasn't opening causing sensor to shut down motor all is well now due to my skills master mechanic send all people my way need the money
Expert:  Dodgerench replied 1 year ago.

I'm sorry to say that the t-stat won't cause your engine to shut down suddenly. The PCM will happily let it melt down to a blob as long as it can still run, so if you've got a reprieve, it's because you moved some wiring and it just isn't shorting now. If you're not willing to rate my service 3 stars or better now, just let the thread sit and we'll talk again later.


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